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HelicopterCentury Radikal G20-30 N640 Hawk Predator Docs  Radikal 20 FYI
06-02-2010 11:09 PM  7 years agoPost 741
labont

rrApprentice

sudbury, ont, canada

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Thanks for the super fast reply Sparx.

Ya, I tried to reverse the auto hub and put the longer side through the gear but that clearly was not the way it was intended. So back it went in, just like you described it, yet the shaft is still not all the way through the bottom bearing. I have not gotten to the part where everything gets tightened up but if it involves lifting the gear assy up at all from being fully bottomed out there will be very little left inside the inner race.

I am going to measure how far the hole is from the shaft end.

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06-02-2010 11:21 PM  7 years agoPost 742
James Kovach

rrKey Veteran

canton, oh - US

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I took some measurements as well.

Bottom of main shaft to center of hole is 44mm

Measuring from the upper bearing block bolt to the lower bearing block bolts on the outside of the frame is 68mm

*disclaimer: These are my opinions. Agree or disagree, Your Call :)
Let'r Rip Tator Chip

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06-02-2010 11:48 PM  7 years agoPost 743
labont

rrApprentice

sudbury, ont, canada

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ok... the bottom hole on my shaft is 42mm. It's 44 to the top of the hole but definitely only 42 to center of the hole.

The shaft is about 2 or 3 mm up in the bearing's race.... looks to be half way up inside it.

My other concern now is that copper washer that goes on top of the bottom bearing and is supposed to keep the oneway hub from rubbing on the bottom bearing mount. It's just a sliver shy of doing its job. The hub is resting on the bearing block for sure. I looked at the bearing and it seems to be fully pressed in so beats me.

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06-03-2010 12:36 AM  7 years agoPost 744
James Kovach

rrKey Veteran

canton, oh - US

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OK.. seems like you might have two issues.

1. You hole for the auto-hub pin is not in the right place. I just double checked with 2 different measuring devices and mine is definitely 44mm from the center of the hold to the bottom of the main shaft. You are going to need a replacement shaft. I would ask whoever you get it from to make sure the hole is drilled in the proper spot. As you are in CA, you can probably contact the CA distributor or the LHS you got it from to get a replacement.

2. When the bearing is pressed into the bottom bearing block, the outer race should be flush with the bearing block. It if is recessed into the bearing block at all, then the hole in the block was milled too deep. Again, you will need to seek a replacement.

For reference, that brass washer should be 1mm thick.

*disclaimer: These are my opinions. Agree or disagree, Your Call :)
Let'r Rip Tator Chip

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06-03-2010 01:00 AM  7 years agoPost 745
labont

rrApprentice

sudbury, ont, canada

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ok... your talk about it being recessed too much made perfect sense and when I looked at mine I thought.... "well if it were recessed more it would be higher and not allow the hub to rub... that's when it dawned on me... I had the bottom bearing assy in upside down. So flipped it over, the bearing is higher, the copper washer now does it's job, the hub doesnt rub and the shaft is now almost flush with the bearing because the bearing is now higher than it was before.

Yay for me DUH

Thank god for you guys and internet.

But!!! I measured again and the hole is definitely 42mm from the bottom to its center. Does your shaft protrude out the bottom at all or is it flush?

Thanks so much. Good thing I noticed the shaft riding high in the bearing and you helping me figure this out... I might have ran it like this without knowing I was causing damage.

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06-03-2010 01:22 AM  7 years agoPost 746
James Kovach

rrKey Veteran

canton, oh - US

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I cannot answer you about if mine is flush or hanging down right now. I had an "incident" on Sunday and now both my Radikals are down waiting for parts. Had a wasp decide to land on my glasses between my glasses and my face. You can imagine how the rest went from there.

Glad we got it worked out though. There are so many parts on RC helicopters it is not unheard of to get one in the wrong way.

*disclaimer: These are my opinions. Agree or disagree, Your Call :)
Let'r Rip Tator Chip

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06-03-2010 08:49 PM  7 years agoPost 747
labont

rrApprentice

sudbury, ont, canada

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Well, was hoping to start the engine today and let it idle for 15 mins but as I was adjusting the gear lash I started to realize something was wrong. It's the bearing that is already pressed into the clutch bell. I suspected it might give me trouble when I first noticed it was notchy. I am also going to order that shaft that goes through there... it seems to be cocked to one side adding friction. Might as well be on the safe side if I'm going to be ordering the parts anyway.

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06-03-2010 11:25 PM  7 years agoPost 748
labont

rrApprentice

sudbury, ont, canada

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Man I have bad luck

The guy at the lhs was nice enough to find another bearing for me so I went home and pit it in. I was lining up all the bearings by laying the assy in one half of the housing.. I turn the shaft by hand and can see the smaller top bearing wiggling around a little... so I was right about that shaft being bent.

Now I have discovered the one way in the clutch is messed up some how. It looks fine when I look in it and stops the shaft properly but when I spin it the other way it makes a squealing sound almost. sometimes there is a clicking noise as well. and this is only spinning it finger fast.

I guess I'll go back to my lhs and show it to them.. see what they say. I just want to hear this thing running... I'm chomping at the bit.

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06-04-2010 12:28 AM  7 years agoPost 749
Billme

rrElite Veteran

MS

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You should read the fyi closer, and you would find to use shims on the bell housing inserts to keep the bell from shifting when you put the wrench on it...It will explain why.....

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06-04-2010 02:32 AM  7 years agoPost 750
Tran3ddd

rrNovice

Martinsville, Va US

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Throttle not responsed

I'm having problem with the throttle lately when i started flying
first haft tank it flies fine but when it get to bottom haft the throttle acting up it seem like no input signal from my Tx, first i thought was the throttle arm strip but after closed observed the throttle servo won't move but everything else work fine
I got Align 620 for T-servo and using GV-1 gorvener with stator gator sensor. My battery voltage seem to be ok.
and thought? thanks.

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06-04-2010 03:43 AM  7 years agoPost 751
labont

rrApprentice

sudbury, ont, canada

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Hi Bill... I got a little confused there... are you talking about those two copper washers that we are not supposed to use between the clutch and engine because it prevents the flange on the clutch from going far enough down?

Edit : I just remembered what you are talking about. The hex inserts. I assumed that because my kit came with the new fan and new gear ratio that these hex inserts would also have been corrected.

Are they still too short even on the latest kits?

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06-04-2010 03:49 AM  7 years agoPost 752
labont

rrApprentice

sudbury, ont, canada

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Hi Tran,

If I read your post right you are saying your throttle servo is not responding like it should?

If this is correct have you tried swapping the servo plug into another channel, like say one of the collective servos, to see if the servo moves properly?

I had a throttle servo get messed up on my nitro.

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06-06-2010 01:57 AM  7 years agoPost 753
labont

rrApprentice

sudbury, ont, canada

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Figurred out what I did wrong.

I figured out what the problem was with binding however that clutch bell bearing was bad and the center shaft is definitely tweaked to one side.

After I sorted that notchy bearing and got everything together and turning as smoothly as I could get it I noticed the clutch bell would not turn freely once it got hot. I instantly remembered a post, I think by Bill, saying that the crank expands when hot and if you used those two washers the whole assembly would bind. I didn't use the washers but I knew for sure it was binding when hot.

Took everything apart and suspected I had not tightened the clutch down enough because there was no slack to be found in the pinion/one way assy. I cleaned the threads of loctite and tried again, sure enough it turned further than I had originally done it... it just felt like it was on tight enough but there was another 1/2 to 3/4 of turn left... but I had to really torque on it. Guess I was afraid to over do it the first time. There was a positive stop once it was seated so I knew it was done.

Put it all back together and instantly I feel everything turns more freely. A half a tank of mix and I run it for 15 mins at a good idle blipping and revving it up every so often. No binding and every still turned smoothly by hand with a hot engine.

This is now the third time I have had it idling and revving in spurts. The stock zenoah muffler is raspy and kinda loud. Need to order the Century muffler now. More coin.

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06-06-2010 06:04 AM  7 years agoPost 754
Billme

rrElite Veteran

MS

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Yes, the inserts are to short..I hate it, but hopefully it will be corrected...Do the shimming, it really gives everything a good positive lock...
I was discussing with Sparks tonight, and he mention maybe going to electric supply, and get the stand offs for circuit boards..same thing, but may not come in metric. You can cut it to the length you need..

Better than ca-ing the shims.

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06-07-2010 06:13 PM  7 years agoPost 755
labont

rrApprentice

sudbury, ont, canada

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Is this the correct fuel?

I never thought about it but wow, does gasoline ever smell. The smallest amount inside my house is noticeable.

This is the Coleman fuel I found at Canadian Tire. Is it the proper stuff stuff that I can run in my Z20ei? It's 3 or 4 times as much as 5 litres of gas but worth it to avoid that smell.

[url=http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/5/SportsRec/Camping/CampingStovesAppliances/PRD~0760044P/Coleman%252BFuel%25252C%252BNaphtha.jsp?locale=en]

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06-07-2010 11:10 PM  7 years agoPost 756
oldfart

rrProfessor

Vancouver, Canada

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Although much more expesive, I and many others have used camper fuel for many years in our gassers. Another low smell option if you have access to it is 100LL aviation fuel.

Phil

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06-09-2010 03:12 PM  7 years agoPost 757
Zman

rrKey Veteran

Florida

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I have 2 radikals, one with stock20 and other with wally21 and found out some things in the process
1) Camper fuel runs great in the stock 20.
2) 93 pump gas will not run great in the stock 20.
3) Wally's engine needs 93 fuel.

Z

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06-11-2010 02:47 PM  7 years agoPost 758
labont

rrApprentice

sudbury, ont, canada

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Break in and tuning questions/ideas.

moved post

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06-14-2010 08:41 AM  7 years agoPost 759
mrloudly

rrVeteran

Naseby Northampton England

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"Another low smell option if you have access to it is 100LL aviation fuel"

Where does this myth come from? As a private pilot with more than 600hrs 100LL stinks??? Sweeter smell than Mogas but it still stinks...

Andy M

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06-14-2010 12:44 PM  7 years agoPost 760
labont

rrApprentice

sudbury, ont, canada

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I wouldn't even know where to go buy aviation fuel. I did however run half a tank of Coleman fuel through the Radikal yesterday and it reminded me of camping as a child. Much better than gasoline and now I can bring the heli in the house without that awful gasoline smell.

Oh, and this be the third tank through it now. I removed the muffler and had a peek. The piston skirt is flawless and the cylinder wall that I can see on the other side is as well. I'm happy that I got past the first couple tanks with no scratches in either. Now to complete the break in process and I should have a good strong solid runner.

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Scorpion Power ProModeler
HelicopterCentury Radikal G20-30 N640 Hawk Predator Docs  Radikal 20 FYI
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