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10-25-2009 06:20 PM  8 years agoPost 1
CompyMike

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sacramento, ca

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Been running a TT39 PRO H heli motor in my century hawk. Using a carb off of a OS46FX-H. Works great! Breaking in another TT39 cause fan came loose in flight and that broke the conrod. I think I was running too high of a headspeed too. Breaking in another rebuilt motor. I have done two tanks now hovering around. Since I am not using the stock carb I have had to screw around with settings.

After I hover for a while the temp of the motor got up to 150F just below the fins of the head. I can keep my finger on the backplate. Nice and smokey. Is this a good temp to break in the motor? I figure I would do about 4 more tanks like this.

Once broken in what would be a good temp to shoot for at the base of the fins on the head? I know you can't go by temp alone but it would be nice to get some sort of idea of max temp so I don't blow it up.

I've heard the OS Hyper50 likes no more than 220F at the same spot. But it has extra cooling to allow it to run hotter.

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10-25-2009 06:39 PM  8 years agoPost 2
CompyMike

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sacramento, ca

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Did a third tank. I'm actually around 130F below fins most of the tank. It goes up to 150F below the fins at a quarter tank left. Which seems normal cause it tends to run a tad lean when it has a quarter tank left.

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10-26-2009 09:08 PM  8 years agoPost 3
CompyMike

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sacramento, ca

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I'm kind of surprised no one has jumped on this thread. I know the TT39H is suppose to be a POS.
But I found it to be quite a different animal with the OS Carb. Stays in tune and has more
power than my OS32. And it idles way better. When I ran it with the Thunder Tiger stock carb
I always had to run a high idle or it would die. And this was bad on the clutch I'm sure.
Now it idles like a champ!

So once I have it broken in what would be the MAX temp to not go over when measuring the side of the
motor below the cylinder head fins? 175F?

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10-26-2009 10:39 PM  8 years agoPost 4
Busher

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Manchester, England

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I would like to help you on this one but I can only offer basic info.
I can't offer you temps from a temperature gun as I have never owned one for model purposes.
I have had a couple of TT39 and I rate them as a good quality hard wearing and powerful engine for the money, never had much trouble with mine until I wore them out. From your post the run temps you are running are good and the TT39 takes quite a while to break in.

When you are run in head for temps like this:-

After you have tuned your max power setting hover the heli for sustained period of about 4 mins or so, then quickly land The back plate should be hot to touch, not capable of burning your finger but hot enough so that you wouldn't like to keep your digit there any longer than necessary, It runs a fair bit hotter than the os 32 or 37 in comparison.
At this setting then proceed to fly as you would normally and then after about 5 mins of this flying again test the temps if should be about the same temp, if its any hotter then I would rich-en it out a bit.
Hope this helps but sorry I don't have a temp gun.

Good luck
Busher

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10-26-2009 11:04 PM  8 years agoPost 5
payne1967

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uk

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the tt 39 runs hotter than any other 30 class engine i've used
and as a gain no temp gun
mine was run with the std carb, i had it second hand with only 1/2 a raptor tank of fuel put through it with its owner being told by a local expert that the motor was no good

i totaly abused the motor from it going into my shuttle
it was never run-in more like run flat out
i richened the bottom end to stop the motor leaning off when the throttle was closing but the tick over did suffer and it sounded like a bag of nails on tick over
i blew the rear bearing after 30 gallons of abuse ranging from 10 to 30% fuel depending on what jug i had open
sadly the bearing took the piston/ liner and rod out with it so it finished the motor off
and as i got the motor for just £10 i didn't do too bad out of it
and i'd run another one
the shuttles still flying with a very used irvine 36 in it but has no way near the power of the tt39

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10-29-2009 12:49 AM  8 years agoPost 6
CompyMike

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sacramento, ca

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Hey thanks guys for your great info.
To be on the safe side I richened the top end one click and richened the lowend a little cause it sounded a little lean going from 3/4 throttle to idle. Just did two more tanks making it 5 tanks of slow easy hovering and circuits in the backyard. Temp readings below the head cooling fins never got over 130. I could keep my finger on the backplate all week. So it is getting there. Just hovering around in normal mode the curve doesn't even go to 100%. I figure I do a couple more tanks like this and then start to tune the topend.

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12-04-2009 10:23 PM  8 years agoPost 7
cnunamaker

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Bakersfield ca

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engine temp

I just ran my raptor 30 and my head temp was 245 is that bad

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12-05-2009 08:30 AM  8 years agoPost 8
spiacro

rrApprentice

Athens, Greece

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I just ran my raptor 30 and my head temp was 245 is that bad
I am running mine at 200-205F max with CP20%. With 15% getting 215-220F max. Try to rich the main neddle 2-3 clicks and check for any differences.


Spiros

Engine is the HEART of an r/c model, but THE PILOT is it's SOUL.

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12-05-2009 09:19 AM  8 years agoPost 9
nivlek

rrProfessor

Norfolk England

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A club mate has a TT39 in a Raptor , now fitted with a Dynapipe exhaust and 600mm blades . The engine does tend to run a little hot , but I suspect that it it because its standard carb doesn't let you tune the engine perfectly . The bottom end needs to be set so rich that it barely keeps running on tick-over to avoid it being lean at mid to three quarters throttle . I suspect that using an on-board glow would help with the tickover , but the OS carb sounds like a better option . Having said that , many people suffered with a lean mid-range with the OS46FX-H engine , (mine were both fine) so maybe even that carb isn't the perfect solution .

At the end of the day , it gets dark .

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