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HelicopterMain Discussion › Metallurgists?
10-24-2009 08:44 AM  8 years agoPost 1
Aaron29

rrProfessor

USA

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So I had this OS 32 that was running like a champ when I decided to get a Hyper.

I wanted to ensure that the little OS 32 would run well even after a long period of storage.

So I took it completely apart and cleaned the residue off of every part with alcohol. Then I painstakingly dried each piece. I reassembled it using after-run oil on each piece. I put the entire thing in a ziploc bag, thinking that the lack of moisture and the afterrun oil would stop corrosion. It sat this way in my drawer for three years.

A few months ago I got sick of the Hyper and decided to go back to the 32. I excitedly got it out of the drawer and found it was completely siezed. I completely disassembled the engine again and painstakingly cleaned the parts. They looked like absolute crap. The parts were discolored. I presume from the afterrun oil. There was some bearing and piston corrosion.

In the end, the piston pin to rod movement was notchy and not satisfactory. To get this running right, I'd have needed to replace the bearings, the piston, the piston pin and rod. The cost was too big a fraction of total replacement. I binned it and bought the OS 37.

I have my theory that the afterrun oil did this. Perhaps it's only made for short term. It almost seems as though disassembling it, cleaning it, and leaving the parts on my desk would have been the better bet.

Your take?

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10-24-2009 09:06 AM  8 years agoPost 2
alexz

rrApprentice

shakopee mn usa

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Sorry to hear that. Next time try putting it into a small box and then use a food save to vacuum seal it. The box is to stop all the sharp edges form making holes in the bag.

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10-24-2009 01:52 PM  8 years agoPost 3
w.pasman

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Netherlands

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For me afterrun did not work (tried on hyper to solve bearing problems). Maybe I applied too little. Anyway I stopped using it.

Maybe it depends on which afterrun you are exactly using. Some may have stuff neutralizing acids and these neutralizing stuff might be harmful in itself?

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10-24-2009 01:56 PM  8 years agoPost 4
krashtagain

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ohio

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A good squirt of some brake clean or carb cleaner would have done better for you cleaning , i've never used alcohol . I soak the eningine internals down with atf and have never had a problem like yours .

If you're not living on the edge you're just taking up space !

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10-24-2009 04:46 PM  8 years agoPost 5
GMPheli

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W. Bridgewater, MA USA

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Don't know what you used for afterun oil, but it should have worked great. Alcohol won't hurt metal, it is the base for your fuel. I use isopropanol all the time on my motors. Tell us what after run u used so we all know not to use it. I use a 50 50 mixture of Marvel air tool oil and atf. When storing engines with afterun, you should really use a lot, just flood it with oil making sure it coats the whole engine inside and out, and throw it in a ziploc bag. Have done this many many times in the past with no corrosion or rust. Motors come out just like they went in. I generally remove the carbs, but I have gotten after run in carbs before with no detrimental effects on the o-rings. There are different o-rings out there and some will dissintergrate with petroleum based oils. Some people also leave motors submerged in oil or atf with out the carb.

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10-24-2009 05:45 PM  8 years agoPost 6
Damper

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Point Blank TX USA

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Current dry a spray just in machine shops repels water prevents rust. It also prevents flash rusting. Very good persetvative for metal parts.

Full Throttle Spooning Leads To Forking

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10-24-2009 05:53 PM  8 years agoPost 7
bkervaski

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Birmingham, AL, USA

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A generous coat of WD-40 inside and out and sealed in a zip-lock bag will keep an engine in perfect shape for long term storage.

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10-24-2009 06:22 PM  8 years agoPost 8
GMPheli

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W. Bridgewater, MA USA

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"A generous coat of WD-40 inside and out and sealed in a zip-lock bag will keep an engine in perfect shape for long term storage."

I know from first hand experience not to do this. I don't know if the solvents in the WD-40 reacted with the particular ziploc bag I had used, but when I went to retrieve parts that I had stored this way about a year later, the WD-40 had turned into a crusty goo that was very hard to remove.

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10-24-2009 06:35 PM  8 years agoPost 9
bkervaski

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Birmingham, AL, USA

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Mine seem to store fine this way, I do break them down and soak them in denatured alcohol for a few days then clean them before storing.

The OS91HZ book says to store the engine submerged in denatured alcohol.

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10-24-2009 06:58 PM  8 years agoPost 10
2LTime

rrKey Veteran

Walworth,NY

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I soak the eningine internals down with atf and have never had a problem like yours .
+1

If you can't learn to do it well, learn to enjoy doing it badly.

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10-24-2009 07:32 PM  8 years agoPost 11
GMPheli

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W. Bridgewater, MA USA

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Like I said I think it must've been the solvents reacting with the bag, really don't know why but I don't do it anymore, I use afterun to coat anything metal I want to store. The other potential problem I have heard of happening with WD-40 is the fact that it loosens rust. This is usually a good thing, but if you have rust inside your motor, that gets loosened because of the WD-40, this loose rust makes an excellent abrasive and will wear your motor out in short order.
Oh, and I always flush the old oil out of the motor (Generally using WD-40) before flooding with afterrun for long term storage. The idea here is to get rid of the old oil in the motor that has combustion contaminants in it

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10-24-2009 07:49 PM  8 years agoPost 12
helinutz2

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Medicine Hat, AB Canada

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Like others, I have alway's used ATF (automatic transmission fluid) to preserve my engines. 10+ years of this practice and I've never had any issues.

Rave 90 ENV / Radikal E640 / Rush 750 / Trex 600N
Team No WhinerS, Team Renegade R/C Heliflyers

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10-25-2009 03:06 AM  8 years agoPost 13
Aaron29

rrProfessor

USA

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Sounds like ATF is a winner, both as an afterrun oil and as a preservant. Plus it's cheaper than your LHS brand afterrun oil. I don't have access to the afterrun oil I used but I'll be able to tell you guys February.

I'm almost certain it was Hobbico. Pretty big name brand. I'd hesitate to blame Hobbico as it was a 2 year old bottle...maybe the stuff goes bad. I did cap it when not used.

Perhaps it was trying to seal it in a plastic bag. Does everyone else do that? Does anyone not recommend it?

I'm still uncertain where I went wrong. I'm not convinced that the use of alcohol to clean it is the problem. Sure it strips oils, but if I completely cleaned it, dried it and then applied more oil it should have been OK.

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10-25-2009 03:15 AM  8 years agoPost 14
jgunpilot

rrKey Veteran

Pollock, LA

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WD-40 is the worst stuff you can use on a gun or an engine. It's not oil, it's a moisture displacer that leaves a gummy residue. I doubt if it's compatible with o-rings and seals, as well. ATF and a food saver bag sounds like the way to go to me.

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10-25-2009 03:15 AM  8 years agoPost 15
Dr.Ben

rrMaster

Richmond, VA, USA

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I've tried a BUNCH of different preservative oils both for storage and afterrun use. ATF is the hands down winner.

There are several corrosion inhibiting sprays made by CRC and other that I would like to use, but they "dry" with a waxy coating that I don't want on a bearing d/t concerns of what the balls may (or may not) do when the engine is first cranked. The lighter, non drying preservatives have not proven to "stick" to the bearings well enough to prevent corrosion. This includes WD-40 which will absolutely let an engine rust when it's used as an afterrrun "oil" in my humid climate.

Ben Minor

Team Synergy Team Futaba Team Kontronik USA
Progressive RC

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10-25-2009 03:46 AM  8 years agoPost 16
ttsingram

rrVeteran

Lincoln, Ne

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When I got my first heli back in the early 90's I put my OS .32 away for about two or three years (long story as to why). I knew nothing about after run oil. I decided to get it out, I took it apart and cleaned it up, put it back together and it fired up just like it was new. I never cleaned it or any thing before putting it away. I just wiped the heli off with a rag and put it into storage for those three years, a good idea? NO! But I did, I was a newbie remember? I was very lucky not to loose this engine.

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10-25-2009 03:47 AM  8 years agoPost 17
Aaron29

rrProfessor

USA

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That's my point. Had I done nothing I think I'd have been better off.

Something went very wrong with my storage procedure and I haven't figured it out.

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10-25-2009 03:52 AM  8 years agoPost 18
ttsingram

rrVeteran

Lincoln, Ne

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I doubt it was the alochol, I think it was the oil you used. It might have just been for inbetween flights and not for long term storage. Some petroleum products break down after time. Look at gasoline, it turns into basicly kerosene after a while.

BTW, what did you do with the .32?

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10-25-2009 05:01 AM  8 years agoPost 19
Taipan

rrElite Veteran

Sydney, Australia

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What about using the oil in the fuel alone? I've used KL198 (oil used in Wildcat & YP fuel) to coat my engine internals when rebuilding. Could use CP oil as well.

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10-25-2009 05:57 AM  8 years agoPost 20
cudaboy_71

rrElite Veteran

sacramento, ca, u.s.

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i think it has a lot to do with your location.

bossier city is probably one of the stickiest in the country. humidity is not your motor's friend.

next time just get a mason jar and fill it with machine oil or alcohol and drop the motor in and screw on the lid. whatever you can do to keep moisture out will help in humid climates.

if it ain't broke, break it.

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HelicopterMain Discussion › Metallurgists?
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