have painted in the past and it always seems to work fin until I need to start taping and adding strips or colors, then the part I had already painted gets pulled up under in spots from the tape.
I use primer and sand it before painting, is this happening because the paint isnt completely dry? How long do you wait to do any kind of taping over already painted areas.

the type of tape is important.

get some 3M 233 painters tape, you can get this anywhere that sells auto body repair supplies. it is a green masking tape. this tape is not very sticky, so it helps prevent from lifting paint, and it also does not leave its adhesive behind.

for super clean lines, use the 3M blue vinyl tape.

wait until the paint is fully cured, depending on the paint and how thick you put it on, the time will vary. Candies are a pain, they are always sticky. but just feel it with your fingers and test the hardness with your fingernail.

i use 320-400 grit on the primer (400 is the finest i will go) to get good adhesion.

Shawn
Team Leisure-Tech
Team HelixRC

That's good info. Also, make sure the primer and paint are compatianle. And not all primer is sandable so check on that also. Another thing you could do is try to keep clean as possible, between every stage do a quick rubdown with a cloth and alochol to help keep the finger prints (oil) off.

Some more info would help:

-Fiberglass or plastic canopy
-What primer
-What paint
-What tape
-How long are you waiting between coats
-Airbrush or spray gun

I have the green and blue, the green is the extra stick and blue is next, so it sounds like it just wasn't dry enough yet maybe. I used 400 grit wet sanded the primer before painting. Everything went on great, im doing multi colors soI was going to paint my 3rd color and I had to tape off the black painted canopy area to paint around it. When I pulled the tape of it pulled 1/2in spot of black with
oh well sounds like im doing everything right just not waiting long enough for the paint to dry.

Paint is all automotive paint

Pulling paint

Let it dry some more
if it still pulls off after drying for a day your paint isn't adhering to the primer

ok, 400 grit wet sanding should be fine for you. i only use 320 because as it wears down, it will still have enough tooth and be more like a 400

a wipe down with rubbing alcohol works well after the sanding. use a degreaser before that if you are concerned about oil contaminants.

let the canopy sit over night before you apply the tape.

also, the longer you leave it on, the better the chance it will have you punching a fist through the wall.

after you apply your new color, do a light mist coat initially, let it flash, and keep doing more light coats. the first coat will seal the edge of the tape and help prevent bleeding.

when it comes time to pull the tape, pull it back onto itself, dont pull up at a 90 degree from the surface. also, you dont need to wait until the paint is cured before you pull the tape. let the paint flash, and when it is still tacky and soft, gently pull the tape away. this way, while the paint is still soft, the edge will settle down, and give you a smoother finish with less sanding when you apply the clear to get that edge down.

Shawn
Team Leisure-Tech
Team HelixRC

I will try again tomorrow if it pulls again I don't know what I will do
but bash my head and curse at the paint gods!

hehe, you dont have to tell me twice how frustrating it is.

every paint job i do i make a mistake.

for a long time, i had paint pealing off on every job i did every time i did a canopy. "Oh man, im almost done, i havnt screwed up yet, its perfect, all i need to do is pull off this tape....."

"Hey Shawn, there is a fist sized hole in the wall again, where do they keep comming from?"

Shawn
Team Leisure-Tech
Team HelixRC

would heating the tape with a heat gun prior to pulling it off soften it abit and make less likely to pull?

i have never tried that, but i would think that would also soften the paint as well as the adhesive (leave the adhesive behind).

i have never used heat though so i cant say for sure.

but most times i have had trouble with paint pealing, it was from either crappy sanding on my part, or i was trying to rush the job and didnt give the pain the proper curing time.

my best results were from letting it sit overnight. at least if you are doing thicker base coats. a light airbrushed coat will not need nearly as much time.

Shawn
Team Leisure-Tech
Team HelixRC

This is my way!

Not the fast or easiest, but well worth it in the end! First apply the base coat (light color first) let dry, lightly clear coat, light sand, clean, mask and dust with same color as painting over. Then and only after the color dusting has dried, apply the next color. The dusting of same color as covering will seal the tape. (From this point you want to apply only light coats, or you will have strips that are thick and built up. Another light clear coat over stripes, sand, clean and so on!
After the final color coat, dust with clear coat, lightly sand and final clear coat to a gloss! This is a lot of work but well worth it! I have used Autoaircolors - watercolors automotive paint with a 2 part clear coat system over to seal with great luck!
Check out the link, High quality and very affordable too!
http://www.autoaircolors.com/
Good luck
Phil

Team HeliDirect, Zeal Blade U.S. Flight Team,
Never Assume Anything.

i have been using Autoair for about a year now as well. i really like them.

none toxic, easy to clean (rinse the gun under water), lower flash off speed, reduced over spray, compatible with the two part poly urethane. you cant go wrong.

plus, like the rest of Europe, Canada is switching to low VOC paints, so no more solvent based stuff....therefore Autoair is the only option.

although i dont bother with clear coating between layers....too much work for me.

here are a couple of paint jobs i have done using auto air paints.

Shawn
Team Leisure-Tech
Team HelixRC

Those paint jobs are looking great! While I don't aspire to take it that far, being able to clear coat my own paint jobs would sure be nice.

I have a compressor but would need tools and materials I guess.

What I use some times is a sharp xacto blade and go around the tape, of course not to cut deep but just enough to separate the paint from the tape, it take time but looks good after.
I use autoair too, is realy good and easy!!