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HelicopterThunder TigerRAPTOR 50 › R50 Newbie questions.. I figured it would be best to put them all in one topic.
09-01-2009 05:54 PM  8 years agoPost 1
Simko

rrApprentice

Erie, PA - USA

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I did some searching on these questions below and couldn't really find anything that answered my question.

1) I have the extended boom on my R50 and it currently has Mavrikk 620mm blades on it. Are there any cheaper decent blades that I could use rather than messing up these CF blades?

Wood blades scare me at this size, especially when the Thunder Tiger instructions say to 'reinforce' the grain of the wood with epoxy and to not run over 1700RPM headspeed. The govenor is set to 1650RPM for normal mode and 1800RPM for idle up.

What about fiberglass blades? What do most people run on the Titan?

2) About after-run oil. Can I get away with not using it if I run 30% Cool Power? OS says to use it, Cool Power says it's not needed.

If I must run it, there seems to be some controvery on how to inject it (through the glow plug hole, through the carb, take off the back plate). The OS website says to FLOOD the motor with oil. Won't that create a hydraulic lock condition in the motor when I go to restart it, or do you have to take the glow plug out again and pump the oil out before flying?

After reading about all the issues that people have with the rear bearing rusting, I'd like to try and keep it lubricated and have it last a little while before replacing it.

3) I was messing with the tail linkages last night and when the heli is powered up everything works great and travels pretty much from one side of the tail shaft to the other. When everything is turned off, the tail slider can be pushed far enough that the slider linkage moves 'over-center'.

Is it normal to have this much movement. Everything looks to be in place properly and it doesn't seem to be an issue because the radio doesn't push it that far.

4) Part of my plan when I bought this heli was to sell the Futaba 7C and put in the extra AR7000 that I have laying around and fly it using the DX7? Besides for the fact that this heli is dialed in to the 7C, is there any benefit to keeing the 7C?

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09-01-2009 06:53 PM  8 years agoPost 2
rexxigpilot

rrProfessor

Florida

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1) Try PRO 3D blades. The 600mm CF are only $43-45 depoending on where you buy them. The woodies are OK to use for mild sport flying and hovering. Just make sure you trim the plastic covering and expoxy the plastic strengthener as per directions. I've used them at 1800 headspeed and so have many others. There is significant factor of safety in wood blades due to the high degree of variation in wood strength. Just don't fly it too close to anyone the first time.
2) In your area you will need to use after run oil if you don't store your helis inside. The changes in temperature in a garage or shed throughout the day will cause condensation inside the engine, consequently the bearings will rust. If you store your heli inside for say up to a month or less, after run is not needed with most commercially available fuels. I believe the Cool Power label even states this. By saying "flood the engine" OS is telling you to make sure it is fully coated internally, not to actually flood it.
3) If the tail slider moves full range with the radio it is OK. Make sure it is not binding at either end with the radio on and the gyro in non-heading hold mode.
4) Why would you swap the 7C with an inferior radio like the DX7? The 7C is extremely fast, or is it FASST, and very reliable. Futaba and Airtronics make the best radios IMO. Not that the DX7 is a bad radio, but there have been numerous instances of them failing for various reasons. The only advantage the DX7 has is ModelMatch. If this is the only heli you will be flying, ModelMatch is unnecessary. Some JR/Spektrum RX's include a built-in governor. The AR7000 does not. If you are just bent on using Spektrum equipment, swap out the 7C. The 7C has good resale value.

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09-01-2009 08:44 PM  8 years agoPost 3
pkfrizzlefry

rrApprentice

Newington, CT (Central Connecticut)

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Suggestion

Since your title of your post says Newbie and i am at work bored, i have one suggestion for you, go with 'safe' cheap blades. You will crash! We all Crash! The more you spend on your first heli the less you will want to fly it right...

i learned on a raptor 30...maybe i used to crash more than others while learning, i dunno, but my bin of "bad blades" has at least 20-25 broken wood blades in it...After many years of happily flying woodies, this past weekend i finally felt ready to make the transition to carbon fiber... Yeah big difference when doing rolls, flips and inverted flight is WAY more touchy with the CF...Seems like my head speed went way up with CF as well..but will you be doing any of that or just hovering tail in first for many many gallons?

Go "safely" cheap and just fly, CF doesn't crash well (Ever see Chicken Dance? Woodies don't dance...)

I use after run oil sometimes when i know i wont be flying for a long time, like say a month or two but i store my heli's indoors...

i use the good ol 8u super, actually still do on my main machines, just last week though i figure its time for a new radio..so i got a 7c2.4ghz for a new trex 450 and it's a decent radio, seems easy to program and feels good and heavy in the hands...The dx7 to me felt different...maybe cuz i always had a Futaba in my hands...

Good luck in your progress!

P.S. SIM TIME is huge, when i first started i had 0 sim time...after a year of flying i finally got a sim called CSM...and it sucked, barley any gfx but it ran on a 386/486 and was the only one out..nutin like RealFlight or pheonix is nowadays...

Fly, Fly then Fly some more!!

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09-01-2009 08:53 PM  8 years agoPost 4
rotaryfalcon

rrApprentice

S.E. USA

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Keep the 7C!!!

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09-01-2009 09:25 PM  8 years agoPost 5
xxcysxx

rrKey Veteran

Baltimore, MD - USA

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(Ever see Chicken Dance? Woodies don't dance...)
my r30 with woodies dance the other day on a crash.

but i still prefer to use them for practice.

Tam

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09-01-2009 09:25 PM  8 years agoPost 6
Simko

rrApprentice

Erie, PA - USA

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Thanks for the responses so far.

If the wood blades will be good for hovering and FF, then I'm willing to give them a chance. I just thought it seemed hoky to have to cut/expoxy brand new blades.

Do these blades look alright. Only $20
http://www.helidirect.com/symetrica...mart-p-2571.hdx

The Pro3D blades aren't too bad either ($45).. maybe after a few crashes, I'll try them out.
http://www.helidirect.com/600mm-pro...lis-p-10336.hdx

About the 7C... one of the ways that I justified this purchase to the bank (aka the wife) was that I would be able to sell the radio and receiver for around $175 so the $600 purchase price is actually $425 for everything. But now that I have the 7C, I kinda want to keep it.. LOL

I am working on getting a better sim. I just recently hooked up an extra computer to the 52" TV in the living room and I have been flying on the free sim HeliSimRC. It's alright, but it's way too easy to fly compared to flying for real. Just need to save up a few $$ and I'll be ordering Phoenix.

Thanks again everyone for the helpful responses!

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09-01-2009 09:33 PM  8 years agoPost 7
pkfrizzlefry

rrApprentice

Newington, CT (Central Connecticut)

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HAHAHA

my r30 with woodies dance the other day on a crash.
LOL Damn, mine never did... must be the cheap Raptor 30 see through plastic blades i use...

Now that iam on CF, i will see a dance soon enough....gravity always wins unfortunately....

hopefully not too soon though!!

Happy Flying Everyone!

Fly, Fly then Fly some more!!

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09-01-2009 10:04 PM  8 years agoPost 8
trekrider586

rrVeteran

Sylacauga,Al

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Simko,if you use the woods DO make sure to epoxy the roots on.the last thing you need is to throw a blade....very nasty,and dangerous to boot.fly the woods until you get comfortable with ff.change to carbon and you will never look back

it's better to ask for forgiveness than for permission

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09-02-2009 12:00 AM  8 years agoPost 9
BarracudaHockey

rrMaster

Jacksonville FL

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Only an upgraded tail slider can lock over center.

Remove the tail slider and hub.

Cut a 2mm peice of fuel tubing and slide it over the shaft, put it back together.

Make sure you have the upgraded tail hub. If there's 2 set screws, 90 degrees from the tail blade roots you're fine, if there's no holes and set screws on the outside of the hub order part PV0499 and replace the hub.

Andy
AMA 77227
http://www.jaxrc.com

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09-02-2009 02:37 AM  8 years agoPost 10
Simko

rrApprentice

Erie, PA - USA

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Only an upgraded tail slider can lock over center.

Remove the tail slider and hub.

Cut a 2mm peice of fuel tubing and slide it over the shaft, put it back together.
This is a picture of the tail. The guy I bought it from said it was a Mavrikk metal head and tail combo that he put on, but it says HTR on it which from what I can find stands for Hobby Taiwan. I found on some forum posts that people received the same part when ordering a Maverikk tail case

It looks nice and appears to work fine.

So you are saying I should put a little piece of fuel tubing there to keep it from bottoming out? It doesn't go over center until it is about 1mm from the tail case.

Make sure you have the upgraded tail hub. If there's 2 set screws, 90 degrees from the tail blade roots you're fine, if there's no holes and set screws on the outside of the hub order part PV0499 and replace the hub.
Not sure what two set screws you are talking about

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09-02-2009 02:10 PM  8 years agoPost 11
rexxigpilot

rrProfessor

Florida

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You have the old/defective tail rotor hub. It will fail. BH is telling you to replace it with Thunder Tiger part #PV0499. The upgraded part has two set screws that hold it to the tail shaft.

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09-02-2009 02:11 PM  8 years agoPost 12
BarracudaHockey

rrMaster

Jacksonville FL

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HTR/ Mavrikk, same thing, its a great tail case.

Get rid of the tail hub, order PV0499 it will be obvious what you need to replace when you get the part, its about the best 6 dollars you can spend on a Raptor.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/...?article_id=860

shows what I'm talking about

Andy
AMA 77227
http://www.jaxrc.com

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09-02-2009 03:17 PM  8 years agoPost 13
jschenck

rrProfessor

La Vista, NE.

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The PV0499 design difference in picture

V1 tail hub, stock V2(PV0151) hub, PV0499 tail hub

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09-02-2009 03:49 PM  8 years agoPost 14
Simko

rrApprentice

Erie, PA - USA

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Thanks... I will get the new tail hub. Any other parts that would be a nice upgrade? Metal tail blade grips? Metal collective pitch arm? CF tail blades? New dampeners?

I hate to put in an order for only $6

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09-02-2009 04:20 PM  8 years agoPost 15
jschenck

rrProfessor

La Vista, NE.

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well if you don't have typical crash kit stuff that's always a good idea (spindles, mainshafts, flybars, tail booms). A couple of sets of dampers are a good idea to have around.

I like the Mavrikk landing gear. CF tail blades only if you are doing some backwards flying otherwise the plastic ones are nice, cheap and more forgiving when they dig the ground.

A spare set of main blades is always a good idea

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09-02-2009 07:50 PM  8 years agoPost 16
BJames111

rrElite Veteran

San Diego, California

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

4) Why would you swap the 7C with an inferior radio like the DX7? The 7C is extremely fast, or is it FASST, and very reliable. Futaba and Airtronics make the best radios IMO. Not that the DX7 is a bad radio, but there have been numerous instances of them failing for various reasons. The only advantage the DX7 has is ModelMatch. If this is the only heli you will be flying, ModelMatch is unnecessary. Some JR/Spektrum RX's include a built-in governor. The AR7000 does not. If you are just bent on using Spektrum equipment, swap out the 7C. The 7C has good resale value.
Keep in mind that this is only an Opinion. The Dx7 is a great radio, and just as good as the 7c...or vice versa.

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09-02-2009 09:43 PM  8 years agoPost 17
rexxigpilot

rrProfessor

Florida

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The Dx7 is a great radio, and just as good as the 7c...or vice versa.
As you said, only an Opinion!

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HelicopterThunder TigerRAPTOR 50 › R50 Newbie questions.. I figured it would be best to put them all in one topic.
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