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HelicopterKasama Srimok 90 › Help! Mikado v-bar setup
10-19-2009 11:37 PM  8 years agoPost 61
Clarence Creer

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Dallas, Texas

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NO!

blingbling rapt,

Change only the ball on the end of the mixer. We are trying to reduce the blade angle, not increase it. If there were another hole on the other side of the mixer that was further out, we would just move it there. But, since there is not, we shorten the static side.

I'll try to get you a pic tonight.

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10-20-2009 12:05 AM  8 years agoPost 62
gonkulator

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Sutter, ca., usa

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Pic would be great

Is this fun or what :)......

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10-20-2009 03:10 AM  8 years agoPost 63
Clarence Creer

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Dallas, Texas

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here you go

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10-20-2009 06:02 AM  8 years agoPost 64
blingbling rapt

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Sweden

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This means that you need to have more angle on the swach plate. I havent ask you what pitch and cyclic you get in your v-bar file. It is this I mean on mine if I have more angle on my swash it will start to bind. Picture is coming soon.

Richard

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10-20-2009 06:07 AM  8 years agoPost 65
Clarence Creer

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Dallas, Texas

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VBAR file

Send me your file. Those figures in the pics you posted are not going to be nice in vbar

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10-20-2009 06:12 AM  8 years agoPost 66
Clarence Creer

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Dallas, Texas

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blingbling rapt

I have now 12 pitch and 11 cyclic and with full stick my swash almost contact the swash plate drive arm and bottom stick with full cyclick the ballink from swash plate drive arm is very near the swash plate so for me I can not understand how you can add more angle.
We are only looking for 10 degrees of cyclic.

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10-20-2009 06:26 PM  8 years agoPost 67
blingbling rapt

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Sweden

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Here it comes some pictures of mine I have done some mod too that you can see. I have 12 pitch and 10 cyclic measured with wixey digital angle gauge. So in my case there is no more room for more travel on swash clearly you can se on the pictures and right now my head is binding but only on full negative ore positiv pitch with full cyclic and here you never fly. And as you can se I had to mod the elevator arm not the arm but the chassi you know what I mean. Much nicer to change the cable on aileron servo I dont remember who said this first but thanks.

Richard

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10-20-2009 06:47 PM  8 years agoPost 68
Clarence Creer

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blingbling rapt

You could move your swash driver up the mast a little. It would probably help some on the binding issue that you have.

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10-20-2009 07:28 PM  8 years agoPost 69
blingbling rapt

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Sweden

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I cant do that as you se on the first pic the plastic ball link is alredy binding it will be worse if I move it higher up. It can bee hard to se I only have mobile camera at the moment.

Richard

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10-20-2009 08:45 PM  8 years agoPost 70
SJo1

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Finland

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If your swash driver is binding, why not to extend links in swash driver? (screw few turns plastic link hands open?)

After this you can move driver bit up in the mast.

-Samppa

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10-22-2009 08:14 PM  8 years agoPost 71
Jeff polisena

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westpalmbeachflorida usa

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Did you fly this heli yet ? I found that mine touched too but set up with no binding to test fly first and found that it will fly pretty well even when it looks like not enough travel . I am going to use longer link ends to get more but not necessary.
If your arms are hitting frame you need to readjust servo arms to get them rite then as previous post said you can move up swash lock and plate to get the travel you need .

I stole it ,flew it and gave it back ;)

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10-22-2009 08:24 PM  8 years agoPost 72
blingbling rapt

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Sweden

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Yes I have fly it but not any 3d yet.
I will test that you have said thanks.

Richard

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10-22-2009 08:25 PM  8 years agoPost 73
blingbling rapt

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Yes I have fly it but not any 3d yet.
I will test that you have said thanks.

Richard

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10-23-2009 01:39 AM  8 years agoPost 74
Jeff polisena

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westpalmbeachflorida usa

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If you are back elevator and heli is on by looking at ail arms you need to 90 all out to get arms so they dont touch frames . PM me so I can help without hijackers that know it all and dont have nothing

I stole it ,flew it and gave it back ;)

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10-23-2009 06:29 AM  8 years agoPost 75
blingbling rapt

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Sweden

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Jeff

I understand what you mean. I have being extrem careful and have use the digital pitch gaught and put down meny hours hmm days maybe to adjust this arms and I promise you they move exactly same angle upp and down and are exact 90 when having zero pitch. This is no big issue that mine is binding, as you say only to have little less travel easy to adjust in v-bar. Now here in Sweden it is to cool outside to run so it will take a while before I will do more test.
Some one reliable maybe you should share all measurment. Mine is not far away from manual but they are not exact correkt at least not in my heli hehe.
I am not a expert and hard 3d pilot as some of you guys but build couple of heli so I am not one of them reliable but love this hobby.
Kasama is testing v-bar system on the electric one right now I hope he can share his v-bar config when he is done.

Richard

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10-23-2009 09:17 AM  8 years agoPost 76
SJo1

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Finland

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Thanks for the respect Jeff.

It's not my intention to HiJack this thread.

And it's not worth to start new HELP! Gyrobot setup thread, coz I don't know anybody who have Gyrobot in Srimok...

I have Srimok:
http://www.jouhki.fi/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=418
http://www.jouhki.fi/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=436
http://www.jouhki.fi/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=480

BTW. Check the first link, what I meant for extend swash driver hands to avoid binding.

There's no much difference in our Srimok FBL mechanics, just FBL controllers are different.

I have the one and only Srimok in Finland, so I'm alone with it and it's issues

But thanks to RR and HF for the "support" in all the issues that I have had with this bird. (All sorted now)

I'll step back now...

Bye
-Samppa

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10-23-2009 01:00 PM  8 years agoPost 77
Jeff polisena

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westpalmbeachflorida usa

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Keep asking questions that how we all get thru issues My comments are not directed towards one particular person I've read thru post and it seems that we are not getting the help need to get issues resolved .I reply to posts with my experiences and always get a negative answer it is frustrating .I always build and setup airframes as per manufacture before modifying and the only thing I did mod was tank rubbers heli flies great . Sorry if I offended you , Jeff P

PS: Look at SJo1 pictures when heli is on and at half stick arms and swash should be as his level and 90deg

PSS:SJo1 in pic two looks like fuel vibes if heli flys good and all is well try avant tank rubbers it helps greatly . I dont like the idea of grinding frames .http://www.runryder.com/rrpw.htm?p=4510145&i=3

I stole it ,flew it and gave it back ;)

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10-23-2009 01:31 PM  8 years agoPost 78
SJo1

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Finland

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Jeff,

I'm okay

Pic 2 was taken before I grinded tank surrounding's

I was bit too hasty to figure out that Avant or RJX Xtreme rubbers would be quite good approach to loose tank.

Now there is now signs of fuel "Boiling".

Thanks
-Samppa

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10-23-2009 01:41 PM  8 years agoPost 79
Jeff polisena

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westpalmbeachflorida usa

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How much did you take off frames and how ?

I stole it ,flew it and gave it back ;)

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10-23-2009 01:59 PM  8 years agoPost 80
SJo1

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Finland

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I used Dremel sanding drum, took off from bottom and back around 2mm.

-Samppa

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HelicopterKasama Srimok 90 › Help! Mikado v-bar setup
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