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HelicopterKyosho Caliber/Quest Neo-Caliber series › Caliber 90 Ver 06 on the way! Build thread
09-03-2009 04:55 AM  8 years agoPost 41
Anthony.L

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Seattle, WA

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I like the locktite in the foam trick, going to try that!

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09-03-2009 05:25 AM  8 years agoPost 42
nitrodude_aussi

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Canberra, ACT Australia

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Governor

hi Spookyeng,

I went with the GV1 and have made a mount.. I'll post some pics on archeli. I think you were wize to use the crank sensing type!

Paul.

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09-03-2009 03:21 PM  8 years agoPost 43
Spookyeng

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Meridian, ID USA

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Thanks Anthony.L,

the foam/loctite works great and keep things clean.

nitrodude_aussi,

I think the backplate sensor is the way to go, especially on this helicopter. The backplate works great with the Gyro/Gov for Helo Controls as I have heard. Can't wait to get the system in. Should clean up the helicopter real nice.

To all that assembled the helicopter I have a question. How smooth was the washout base on the mainshaft. Mine fits and is smooth but feels a little drag(ie) to me, almost like it is a smidge too tight. I have some 2000 and 2500 that I could use with triflow oil and polish the mainshaft a little more.

I don't have to go into work until this afternoon and got a little more done this morning. Got the 140 degree stuff build but not going to mount the side control plates until I get the servo mounted in the middle. Looks like I would have a hard time securing the servo with those plates on. Started on the washout but wanted to ask the question above before continuing. Thanks for your time guys. Take care.

Jason

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09-03-2009 04:59 PM  8 years agoPost 44
Chris.C

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Hong Kong

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I fit the washout base and the little pin holder without the head.

Then tighten the set screws in the holder little by little when it closes to lock, you might need to flip it over to get the best fit.

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09-03-2009 05:48 PM  8 years agoPost 45
Spookyeng

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Meridian, ID USA

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Chris C,

I have not installed the phase adjuster ring yet. I feel the tightness only with the washout base on the mainshaft. The swashplate feels great. Just a little tight on the washout base, but again the fit is good so not sure if this normal and it is supposed to have some bed in time.

I changed my mine on the servos and ordered up three BLS252 for the cyclic/collective duty so I will get as far on the head as I can and will start working on the tail after that until I get the servos in early next week. More to follow. Take care guys.

Jason

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09-03-2009 07:50 PM  8 years agoPost 46
ErichF

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Sutton, NH

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I seem to remember my washout base was a tight fit, as well. I didn't do anything but Tri-Flow it and it smoothed out nicely after a few flights.

I recently read some bad news about users of the new YS91SR3C engine...the backplate has a stainless steel "rub ring" on the inside surface that the conrod can ride on. This stainless steel ring will not allow the Sprektrum backplate sensor to work. I wonder if you can install a backplate from a YS91 ST or SR instead?

If you can't get the backplate sensor to work, you can install a magnet in the clutch itself. The two spanner wrench holes are an exact fit for most magnets included with governors. I just CA'd one in with thick CA.

You can see the hole I'm referring to in the pic below, along with the sensor installation on t he engine:

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09-03-2009 10:16 PM  8 years agoPost 47
Spookyeng

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Meridian, ID USA

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Erich,

Thanks for the info on the washout base. Not good news on the SR3C. The motor is basically a SR so I would think a SR backplate should work. I will order one up and let you know if it works or will work. Talk to you later

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09-03-2009 10:27 PM  8 years agoPost 48
pgrbff

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Piemonte, Italy

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I too bought a backplate sensor hoping to use it with a newly purchased YS91SR3C. Is it really that much of a problem to use a conventionally mounted sensor?

Proficient at turning cash and credit into smoke and noise!

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09-04-2009 07:10 AM  8 years agoPost 49
Spookyeng

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Meridian, ID USA

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pgrbff,

I don't think it will be a problem to use a conventional P/U. I would rather use the backplate if I can, but if that will not work I will have to build a mount for the conventional sensor. Couple of pictures of the backplate and internal of the motor.

I am unsure of the stainless rub ring, but it is there, and everything looks like a SR from the back (from what I remember) so I ordered a standard SR backplate from Ron's today and will have it by early next week. The connecting rod has its own channel that it rides in for approx 275 degrees of rotation, so trying to fiqure out why and what purpose the stainless serves. I like the idea but like the backplate sensor more. Any inputs into this difference between the SR and SR3C, please advise. Thanks and take care.

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09-04-2009 08:27 AM  8 years agoPost 50
pgrbff

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Piemonte, Italy

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I did get confirmation from Horizon and UK importer of YS that backplate sensor would not work. I have asked YS directly if they can reccommend using the SR backplate. I have only asked YS one question directly before, and I did receive a prompt reply.
I can't help thinking that if they have lined the backplate with steel, they must have done so for a reason.
I have returned my backplate sensor and will go the conventional route for the moment.

Proficient at turning cash and credit into smoke and noise!

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09-04-2009 08:35 AM  8 years agoPost 51
Chris.C

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Hong Kong

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I have returned my backplate sensor and will go the conventional route for the moment.
How? glue the magnet to the clutch bell is easy but how to mount the sensor firmly onto the frame? I don't recall I have a mounting bracket in the kit.

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09-04-2009 01:23 PM  8 years agoPost 52
ErichF

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Sutton, NH

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As I wrote in the post above, if you glue the magnet in the clutch, not the clutch bell, you can use a standard mount post turned inwards. Look more closely at the pic I posted above.

Erich

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09-04-2009 02:34 PM  8 years agoPost 53
nitrodude_aussi

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Canberra, ACT Australia

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Governor sensor

Hi Folks,

I'm going to use the clutch bell magnet and have made a small alloy bracket that bolts to the upper frame and will hold the GV1 sensor. The sensor pcb will mount to the backet by heat shrink. I think the fit / clearance will be accurate..

here is the mount and sensor without the casing..

Magnet cavity already machined at the factory

I'll send another pic when it is mounted..

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09-04-2009 03:15 PM  8 years agoPost 54
Spookyeng

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Meridian, ID USA

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pgrbff,

please advise once you get word back from YS on the backplate from a SR being used.

Guys,

Like I said I have a SR backplate on order and will take a look. I am looking at many different options to mounting a conventional sensor, even a optical P/U might work. This is the part that I like, figuring stuff out. Not much to fiqure out though in this case, Erich and nitrodude_aussi have great solutions already. I would prefer not to take the motor back out, but if needed it looks like it is removable easily.

My wife and I are off to Atlana for the NASCAR race this weekend, Plenty of time to think about options on a five hour car drive, because my wife sleeps the whole way I will have my laptop with me to check back in on the thread. Take care.

Jason

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09-06-2009 10:24 AM  8 years agoPost 55
nitrodude_aussi

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Canberra, ACT Australia

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Sensor mount for GV1 on Caliber 90

Hi again,

I have the mount sorted. The idea seems to have worked pretty well, the sensor returns a 96% reading on the GV1 panel. The sensor attaches to the bracket with heat shrink tubing. The bracket was made from an alloy offcut and is about 1mm thick.

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09-07-2009 08:56 AM  8 years agoPost 56
pgrbff

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Piemonte, Italy

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I must say I am surprised, but below direct answer from YS Japan.

You can use the back plate of 91SR for 91SR3C.

Proficient at turning cash and credit into smoke and noise!

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09-07-2009 08:49 PM  8 years agoPost 57
Spookyeng

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Meridian, ID USA

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pgrbff,

That is good news, I was just getting ready to report that I got the SR backplate in while my wife and I were in Atlanta this weekend and it is identical to the SR3C less rub ring. I will be intsalling the new backplate today and use the Spektrum sensor with the Helo Controls unit. Talk to you guys later. Take care.

Jason

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09-12-2009 04:07 PM  8 years agoPost 58
Spookyeng

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Meridian, ID USA

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Getting back to work on the Caliber.

Finished polishing the mainshaft and the interior bushing on the washout base and everything is super smooth. Used a combination of 2500 grit wed/dry and tri flow on the mainshaft and super fine polishing compound on a dremel buffing wheel that was the same O.D. as the I.D. on the washout base. Worked great and took about two passes with the buffing wheel.

I got in the Helo Control Unit and the BLS252 servos. First impression of the Helo Controls unit is that it is very well boxed and very nice quality. I did not take a picture of it yet, but I will get a couple up today. I did get the first servo mounted so I can finishing installing the remaining 140 degree pieces. The only issue I had was the right side CCPM lever arm rubbed just a touch on the back of the servo case when installed. Quick fix, Pulled the servo back out and installed four 2.5mm washers between the servo rubber and the aluminum mounting bracket. Reinstalled everything and now I have good clearance.

Getting ready to mount the head, just checking everything over and noticed a little more gap between one blade grips and head compared to the other. Might be .5 to 1 mm difference, but it bothered me so I took off the blade grips and one rubber is out just a little more than the other. Tried to push it it a little father but it is not moving so I think I am going to have to take out the feathering shaft and rubbers, clean everything, check dimensions for equal and reinstall. That should do it. Question....Erich, Preload for the damper should be touch the damper with retaining/preload ring and turn four more flats. I know this is base setting and subject to change but just checking. That is all I have for now and more to follow. Couple of pictures and sorry for the long posts.

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09-12-2009 04:32 PM  8 years agoPost 59
ErichF

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Sutton, NH

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To answer the question, yes that is where I set my damper pre-load on the squish rings.

As for the off centered damper, you can take the grips off and remove the spindle pretty easily. The damper donuts need to be greased well. I use Lucas Red n Tacky, best stuff on earth.

It is possible that the head yoke isn't machined deep enough on one side, so use a bottom gage to determine. I'm pretty sure greasing the donuts will solve the issue, though.

I also had a similar issue with the BLS451 in the elevator position interfering with the right side T-Lever. What I did was shim out the two forward mounts of the T-Lever mounting plate, instead of the servo. Moving the servo farther in makes installing the servo wheel and ball links more difficult.

Erich

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09-12-2009 05:09 PM  8 years agoPost 60
Spookyeng

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Meridian, ID USA

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Erich,

Thanks. Disassembly and regrease did the trick. The damper were very hard to get out and showed very little grease so I suspect that they got stuck during assemble at the factory. I do not have the Lucas brand, would like try it thugh. I will look for it next time I am at the auto parts store. I use Tri Flow Synthetic grease with teflon and it has been working for me. I am always game to try something new.

I like the suggestion on spacing out the right lever arm and I am going to take the servo out and reassemble as suggested. I do have another question. I know that the servo grommet metal inserts are primarily used in airplanes with wood screws and wondering if you guys use them with the carbon fiber retainer plates also? I did not use them in this install or for any I have every build for that matter. Just curious if you guys use them. More to follow.

Jason

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HelicopterKyosho Caliber/Quest Neo-Caliber series › Caliber 90 Ver 06 on the way! Build thread
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