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HelicopterOff Topics › The dark side (PLANKS) .... I kinda like 'em
06-07-2009 05:09 AM  8 years agoPost 1
Cope

rrVeteran

South Lake Tahoe CA

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One of the guys gave me some old plane kits and I'm going for it. I got some left over ESCs and motors,props, So why not? I've never built a plane before but why not try? I'm starting with the little rubber band power Super Cub and I'll work up to the P-51.

I kinda like the building and the fact that you gotta fit each piece. It's nothing like a heli screw together kit.

I plan on adding micro RX and Servos to both kits and flying them off my JR XP6102. I figure how hard can it be, and if they wreck they were free.

Here's the two kits. I already started on the Super cub.
I can't wait to see what type of quality I can produce out of these models.

If any of you plane guys got advice for a first time builder please, I would love to hear it.

Also, Do I want to cover all the balsa in the dope or just the joints?

Thanks for all the help.

Fear is the little death,The mind killer. I will allow my fear to pass through me.Only I will remain

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06-07-2009 05:40 AM  8 years agoPost 2
Dr.Rivet

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Seattle, WA, USA

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On a glow model I used to cover everything in dope, but it adds considerable weight. On a tiny thing like that I would recommend to skip the dope part all together especially if it's going to be electric. More important thing is to sand all monokote contact surfaces with very fine sand paper to get a baby-butt smooth finish. After you are done sanding and are redy to cover make sure you vacuum and then wipe every spec of dust with a dry microfiber cloth.

Good luck and be aware that covering is tricky for the first time and don't get frustrated.

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06-07-2009 05:54 AM  8 years agoPost 3
Cope

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South Lake Tahoe CA

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Thanks for the hints, I was gonna cover in tissue paper. (What the kits came with)

What do you mean by "Skip the dope part all together" What do you use to glue the balsa together?

Any more tips?

Thanks again.

Fear is the little death,The mind killer. I will allow my fear to pass through me.Only I will remain

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06-07-2009 06:49 AM  8 years agoPost 4
Seablade

rrKey Veteran

earth

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Those are good kits, did both of them.
The tissue paper by itself is not a strong covering. It will rip and tear just like the fabric covering on the real aircraft did.
so what the early aviation pioneers did was to paint the skin with a "dope" (the name of the paint-not the guy smelling it as he painted it!) I forget what it was called on the real aircraft if it were the same chemical, but for these models it was a "butyrate" dope. Done right you can get a great finish, but it adds weight. (It was also slightly flammable, just ask any Hindenburg survivor.)
Monokote replaced it and gives an even better finish.
Stick with the tissue and learn the old way from scratch!

"Vini, Vidi, Velcro"

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06-07-2009 09:07 AM  8 years agoPost 5
Dr.Rivet

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Seattle, WA, USA

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What do you mean by "Skip the dope part all together" What do you use to glue the balsa together?
CA, medium thickness is all you need.

My mistake, I didn't realize you were not using monokote. Applying "dope" to paper is a must and is a part of that technology. Firts you apply very thin layer (with a thin round brush of 3 to 5 mm diameter)only on contact surfaces from the outside and dope will penetrate through the paper and bond to the spar and rib caps. At this stage you want to use as little as you can while making sure covering is without wrinkles and as tight as you can get. The second step is to get a used windex bottle and spray very fine mist of WATER (not windex) to the areas which sags the most. After water dries (about 2 hours) you repeat the process many times spraying very small amount of water ONLY on problematic ares. Once you are happy with the covering surface you dope it to seal it from moisture and subsequent sagging. It's an art and there is whole lot more to it.

I do NOT recommend this method if you want to get any acceptable results as a beginner and not damage the airframe. Just use monokote and if you screw up you can always heat it and pull it of without the damage to the airframe.

Now concerning the "new" monokote covering method: "doping" is done to the bare airframe with Koverite "dope" to seal the wood and protect it from moisture for decades to come. After it has dried completely it helps monokote to adhere better. In my opinion on a model that scale and with your experience level it's not worth it. I recommencement just to sand very smoothly areas where monokote come into contact.

Doped paper covering is very hard to do the first time, but if you enjoy building more then flying go for it by all means. It's not very durable, but will look better then monokote (more scale like), but will rip with slight contact, even with dried grass.

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06-07-2009 11:00 AM  8 years agoPost 6
nivlek

rrProfessor

Norfolk England

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CA, medium thickness is all you need.
Can't you get balsa cement anymore ?

At the end of the day , it gets dark .

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06-07-2009 01:34 PM  8 years agoPost 7
Mutt

rrKey Veteran

M ca usa

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A lot of us that still play around with he old gillows kits like that use colored saran wrap. Use some balsa rite on the frame where the covering will touch and get it as tight as you can then after it setrs use a heat gun VERY carefully to tighten it up. There is also covering called microlite you can use also works great for what your wanting to do. Cope if I didnt have things all packed up (moving sold property and house) I would send you a crap load of microlite covering. If when I get moved and your not ready to cover and I get it unpacked I will see if you not covered yet if not I will send you some.

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06-07-2009 03:41 PM  8 years agoPost 8
Cope

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South Lake Tahoe CA

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Thanks guys!

I tell you what that Dope is no joke. I started to feel funny last night so I put the plank away and figured I'd work on the heli for a few. My head was SO SCREWED UP I decided to shelf the heli for fear of screwing something up..

I see why it's called dope.

The building is quite fun and I have high hopes for a successful completion of the super cub. The P-51 will wait until I finish the cub then I'm sure it will get built.

Mut Thanks for the offer, If I can't source any out from our wonderful hobby store I'll take you up on the offer.

Thanks for all the help.

Fear is the little death,The mind killer. I will allow my fear to pass through me.Only I will remain

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06-07-2009 07:20 PM  8 years agoPost 9
Roscoe

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garfield Hts.,ohio - USA

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If your going with monokote over tissue, I would recommend ultracote instead of the mono, easier to work with and more flexible. I recently finished covering a scratch built Me-309 with it. Still needs some finishing.

Don't worry about avoiding temptation. As you grow older, it will avoid you.

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06-07-2009 09:15 PM  8 years agoPost 10
whirlyspud

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USA

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You did a nice Job on that Rosco. Thumbs up!

Mike

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06-08-2009 12:20 AM  8 years agoPost 11
jgunpilot

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Pollock, LA

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The Me-309 is absolutely beautiful, although I know nothing of the actual aircraft.

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06-08-2009 12:53 AM  8 years agoPost 12
Roscoe

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garfield Hts.,ohio - USA

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Thanks guys...

The 309 was an experimental, supposed to replace the Bf 109, but lackluster performance doomed it.

Don't worry about avoiding temptation. As you grow older, it will avoid you.

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06-08-2009 04:44 AM  8 years agoPost 13
Roscoe

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garfield Hts.,ohio - USA

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By the way Cope, welcome to the "dark side" ...be careful, it can be addicting.

Don't worry about avoiding temptation. As you grow older, it will avoid you.

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06-08-2009 08:47 AM  8 years agoPost 14
OICU812

rrMaster

Edson, Alberta, Canada

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yea planes are good for being able to fly stress free, pick ur nose, scratch ur bum, have a java, all at the same time and not crash.

...Once upon a time there were Nitros, flybars and frequency pins...

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06-08-2009 06:48 PM  8 years agoPost 15
GimbalFan (RIP)

rrProfessor

Big Coppitt Key, FL

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pick ur nose, scratch ur bum, have a java, all at the same time and not crash.
After a year of helis I decided to give planks a spin. First day up with a .46 SkyRaider bought used from a friend, the cell phone rang. Without a second thought I set throttle to cruise and answered the phone.

There's no better way to prepare for RC planks than to first fly RC helis.

op-thwop-thwop-thwop-thwop-thwop-thwop-thwop-thwop-thwop-thwop-thwop-thwop-t

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06-09-2009 01:36 AM  8 years agoPost 16
Cope

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South Lake Tahoe CA

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Thanks guys.

The super cub is almost done and ready to be converted to RC.

I just need to find a light weight battery that will drive the micro RX, motor, and a couple of servos. Any one got any battery recommendations?

Where should I place the flaps? On the tail or on the wing? I'm thinking three channels, Or should I go for four?.

For power I plan on using the 10 gram micro out runner off the tail of my CPP. Hextronik 9 amp ESC, GWS micro receiver, and stock E-Flight S75 servos.

What do you think? Think she'll take the RC gear with out to much of a fight?

Any advice is always welcome/

Thanks again.

Fear is the little death,The mind killer. I will allow my fear to pass through me.Only I will remain

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06-09-2009 02:09 AM  8 years agoPost 17
Roscoe

rrApprentice

garfield Hts.,ohio - USA

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Hey Cope, here's a link to some good info on Guillows builds that might help you out.

Post some pics of your progress when you get a chance.

Don't worry about avoiding temptation. As you grow older, it will avoid you.

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06-09-2009 02:46 AM  8 years agoPost 18
Cope

rrVeteran

South Lake Tahoe CA

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Ha ah, Thanks Rosco!!

That's frickin AWESOME!!! Whats neat is my set up is almost just what they have in the link!! Man, How cool is that!!

What a great link, I got it bookmarked now.

Thank you, Thank you, Thank you.

Looks like i may be building a lot of these models in the near futeure.
I like how with these kits "You build the model" VS a heli kit "You just bolt it together."

Thanks again guys.

Fear is the little death,The mind killer. I will allow my fear to pass through me.Only I will remain

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06-10-2009 05:35 PM  8 years agoPost 19
Cope

rrVeteran

South Lake Tahoe CA

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More picks

Here are the finished wings, Top is stock (allowed to much flex) Bottom is reinforced for higher speed RC flight. I will also be adding another rib to join the wing to the main frame.

Main Frame Finished

Horizontal stabilizer finished and ready to be modified for flaps.

Vertical stabilizer finished and ready to be modified for rudder.

Micro out runner, Prop, and propsaver. All mocked up and ready for mount to be reinforced and wires slotted in to bracket.

One big ass two cell lipo, way to heavy to fly but used for battery mock up and balance tests.

The two E-Flight servos mocked up in cardboard, I need to go get some thicker balsa or something to make the servo mount out of. Any suggestions?

6CH GWS micro receiver
. It's the smallest lightest RX I had on hand and should work fine..

I'm gonna try and find some of that ultrakote today. I received a PM from a member trying to sell me covering tools. I did not know i was gonna need special tools to do the covering. Can I make do with out the tools, Is their some kind of ghetto way to get it done?

Thanks again for all the help.

Fear is the little death,The mind killer. I will allow my fear to pass through me.Only I will remain

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06-10-2009 06:50 PM  8 years agoPost 20
Roscoe

rrApprentice

garfield Hts.,ohio - USA

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Looking good Cope!

If your going to be building and covering more, you might want to get a decent iron or heat gun with a thermostat on it. BUT, the first time I used monokote I used a regular clothes iron because that's all I had at the time, and it came out OK, kinda clumsy to use tho; just use a thin cloth between the iron and covering so it doesn't scratch it, and follow the temperature setting instructions and you should be fine.

For the servo tray you want to use something thin ( 1/8" ), light and strong, like light plywood or build up a balsa frame to hold them.

Good luck!

Don't worry about avoiding temptation. As you grow older, it will avoid you.

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HelicopterOff Topics › The dark side (PLANKS) .... I kinda like 'em
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