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Next-D › Question about cyclics trims
06-07-2009 12:02 AM  8 years agoPost 1
JSX

rrApprentice

France

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Hi all : )
Here is perhaps a general question, but there is lot of knowledge on this Rave forum, so I hope some of you will be able to help me to understand : )

My swatchplate is perfectly levelized by eyes from min pitch to max pitch, by setting servo rods lengths, subtrims and ATV.
My Rave's flight characteristics are excellent in Fai/mild 3D. In hovering, I've to do cyclics inputs. I know tail rotor which is under main rotor has to do with this as a natural heli reaction.

So I ask myself about the best way to go:
-Should I continue to make cyclics inputs corrections during hovering to keep the advantages of a levelized swatchplate in the other flights phases?
-Or should I trim my heli with rods or TX to have "hands off" hovering?

>> What's the best solution to have the heli as neutral as possible, and why?

Thanks for answers.
Jsx

~¤°Rave~4S/350¤Trex250°¤~

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06-07-2009 12:18 AM  8 years agoPost 2
JASON671

rrNovice

GEORGIA

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its all about head setup.

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06-07-2009 12:22 AM  8 years agoPost 3
duceduc

rrKey Veteran

Saitama-Ken, Japan

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On some radios there are multiple trim menu. There can be a trim for normal, idle1, idle2, & throttle hold. Make sure they are all the same for each mode.

If that is not the case, try to retrim your hover point using subtrim again. It may still be off a tad.

I don't use trim on all my flight modes. It just complicate things. I use a swashplate leveler tool.

Duc S
Do It! Do It!™
AMA:REVOMIX
RCK:24005615-01

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06-07-2009 12:27 AM  8 years agoPost 4
JSX

rrApprentice

France

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So no electronics trims. But if my swatchplate is levelized from -12° to + 12°, but still have to make little corrections on sticks to avoid small roll and elev drifts... is it natural, or should I (de!)tune again the swatchplate?

~¤°Rave~4S/350¤Trex250°¤~

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06-07-2009 12:28 AM  8 years agoPost 5
jongam0

rrApprentice

ft. wayne, in usa

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i second the leveler tool. i mechanically set the linkages as close as possible (@ 50% throttle). then use subtrim to set perfect. then you need to set servo travel. your swash sould be level the whole travel range.

earth ----- my worst obstical

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06-07-2009 12:39 AM  8 years agoPost 6
JSX

rrApprentice

France

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I don't use at all trims, they are set to zero on all modes. Then at 50% pitch stick travel, I mount servo horns near 90°, then adjust with subtrims to have the perfect 90° angle to mainshaft, then adjust rods to have almost levelized swatchplate, and then use again subtrims to have perfect level. After that, go to full min pitch and use of ATV to have SW in level, and to finish same thing at full pitch. So the SW is levelized on all the pitch range.

In fact, I'm now used to don't use trims at all, and to make corrections during hovering because there is always little roll/elev drift. But it's not a problem for me. I think it's because of the tail rotor/main rotor relation. I just don't know if I'm in the good way, or if I must tune again my rotor. But if I do this, my SW will not be in perfect level anymore!!

Tune or detune, that's the question : )

~¤°Rave~4S/350¤Trex250°¤~

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06-07-2009 12:41 AM  8 years agoPost 7
duceduc

rrKey Veteran

Saitama-Ken, Japan

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If your swashplate is level and no trims are used, the heli will fly level at any flight conditions. At this point if the heli is not, than it is a CG issue.

Duc S
Do It! Do It!™
AMA:REVOMIX
RCK:24005615-01

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06-07-2009 12:45 AM  8 years agoPost 8
JSX

rrApprentice

France

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It's very slightly nose heavy. I've got the same hovering characteristics on my Trex250 which is slghly nose heavy too...
So what should I do? I can't get a better CG... except by mounting tail servo on the boom.

Edit: By the way the strange thing is that the heli has a little backward drift, but is slightly nose heavy...
And what about dampers? I use trueblood's red and they are not very hard in fact. Same thing for stocks dampers on the T250.

~¤°Rave~4S/350¤Trex250°¤~

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06-07-2009 12:59 AM  8 years agoPost 9
duceduc

rrKey Veteran

Saitama-Ken, Japan

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I am still using the stock dampners for my 250, however, I do have the TB 'green' which is on standby.

Move the esc alittle closer to the front assuming it is mounting in the front lower tray for the drift.

Duc S
Do It! Do It!™
AMA:REVOMIX
RCK:24005615-01

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06-07-2009 01:06 AM  8 years agoPost 10
jongam0

rrApprentice

ft. wayne, in usa

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jsx here is how i do it

1. set servos to 50% throttle
2. when you put servo arms on, make them as close as possible to 90(do not use any trim to level)
3. i set the elevator linkage( this length NEVER CHANGES, it is a constant through the whole set-up)
4. set other linkages as close as possible to level
5. after mechanical length use subtrim to fine tune @ 50%
6. now use travel adjustment to set final endpoint travel (remember not to adjust elevator at all. that is your constant.

it takes awhile to get correct. hope this helps

my is nose heavy and flies like a dream.

earth ----- my worst obstical

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06-07-2009 01:12 AM  8 years agoPost 11
JSX

rrApprentice

France

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Okay, thanks for all replies : )
So I will make some tests on rods lengths and CG/battery position and see for results.
I just receive green TB, new Outrage paddles and Scorpion 3900 kv for my little Rex : )))) It will be a different bird for sure : ))

Good flights ; )
Jsx

~¤°Rave~4S/350¤Trex250°¤~

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06-07-2009 01:15 AM  8 years agoPost 12
JSX

rrApprentice

France

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Thanks Jongam, I remember I tweak elev travel so I'm bad. I will correct this and redoing all my setup.

~¤°Rave~4S/350¤Trex250°¤~

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