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HelicopterEngines Plugs Mufflers Fuel › OS 50 Con rod issue
03-21-2009 08:51 PM  8 years agoPost 1
felony44

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Eastlake,Oh

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I just pulled my OS 50 apart to check it after a crash, the motor had only 4 flights on a bearing and ring rebuild. Now when I rebuilt I noticed that the bottom of the con rod was "dinged"( for a lack of better term) in several spots but I went and rebuilt it anyways without a new rod.

Now today I noticed that the con rod has taken even more of a beating and while I was cleaning the bearings i found some small flaked pieces inside the case that looked like it came off the con rod. My question is what needs to be replaced and why is this happening?

I know that the con rod is dinging the bottom of the case where the con rod run is. Is the problem the rod? or the crank? or both I can post pictures that i took but its hard to see.

Thanks
Al.

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03-21-2009 09:02 PM  8 years agoPost 2
felony44

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Eastlake,Oh

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03-21-2009 09:30 PM  8 years agoPost 3
BLUETHUNDER

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Glass City

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I would send this into Hobby Service for review.

I need a pic turned 90 degree to see if the bottom
rod hole has stretched/elongated causing this.
measure the crank pin ID of the rod is it Round?

I have seen the rod bushing spin blocking off the oil holes
in high performance nitro boat engines causing this.

The new OS MAX .50 Hyper Con Rods are Cast not machined
from 6061 Aluminum any longer?

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03-21-2009 09:44 PM  8 years agoPost 4
felony44

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Eastlake,Oh

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03-21-2009 09:45 PM  8 years agoPost 5
felony44

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Eastlake,Oh

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The oil holes do line up

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03-21-2009 11:34 PM  8 years agoPost 6
Turkana

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Montreal,Quebec ,​Canada

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If the rear bearing has to much play that can happen to. Reagrds Pete

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03-23-2009 02:07 PM  8 years agoPost 7
felony44

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Eastlake,Oh

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Well maybe I just need to replace the motor.

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03-24-2009 05:48 AM  8 years agoPost 8
BLUETHUNDER

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Glass City

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The rod material is not the new cast rod it's the old style
machined one.

The crank pin hole looks round from the pic, but could still
be machined or bored OVERSIZE i.e. out of tolerance/spec

Maybe foriegn material got into motor? bearing going out?

I would send this back to Hobby Service

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03-24-2009 06:04 PM  8 years agoPost 9
bbaxter

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Central Illinois

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1) ALL O.S. connecting rods are cast and then final-machined.

2) The rod in the picture looks like some kind of foreign object got inside the case and was bounced around and caught between the rod and the case at some point. That's what caused the damage to the connecting rod.

3) If no pieces of the case or bearing are missing, then the foreign object likely got inside the engine by being sucked inside the carb while the engine was running, something got inside the engine when the engine was being installed into the heli, or something got inside the engine during the repair.

4) Only if you see gouged with rough edges on the rod would you suspect that the rod has metal come off it. The only time we've see actual metal from the connecting rod loose in the engine was when the lower end of the rod had seized to the crank due to a lack of lubrication there. Then, we've seen pieces of the rod bearing strewn throughout the engine, if the rod itself didn't come apart.

5) At this point, repairs to the engine would likely not be covered by any warranty, since the condition of the engine is post crash and post owner repairs.

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03-25-2009 02:22 PM  8 years agoPost 10
felony44

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Eastlake,Oh

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Ok lets have some opinions its $83 to replace the whole piston assembly thats ring,pin,cilps and con rod or $160 for new motor what do I do?

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03-25-2009 04:28 PM  8 years agoPost 11
JuanRodriguez

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The Villages,​Florida

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If it were me, I would buy the new motor and be done with it.....If you fix it, you may find out there's something else wrong......

But, it's easy to spend someone else's dime !!

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03-25-2009 10:37 PM  8 years agoPost 12
RaptorMan23

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Sioux City, IA

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I bet you didnt get the rear bearing seated all the way, your conrod will rub if its not seated

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03-26-2009 12:04 AM  8 years agoPost 13
Leif

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USA

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Now today I noticed that the con rod has taken even more of a beating and while I was cleaning the bearings i found some small flaked pieces inside the case that looked like it came off the con rod. My question is what needs to be replaced and why is this happening?
I had exactly the same thing happen a few years ago to one of my Hypers when the rear bearing failed. The bearing was a Stainless/Ceramic bearing. When it failed, rather than exhibiting the normal symptoms of rattling noises or popping glowplugs from throwing off bits of bearing material, the balls simply dented the heck out of the races to the point where the inner race had so much play that the conrod started to bang into the crank case. Hence the effect that you see. In my case I could move the inner race almost 1mm side to side. There isn't much clearance between the conrod and crankcase, so just a little play in the bearing will do this.

MPG Video of failed bearing

I was lucky and managed to rebuild the engine with just a new conrod, bearings, piston and ring. It was still costly since the heli ate a few clutches before I figured out that the engine was going bad.

Leif

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03-26-2009 12:07 AM  8 years agoPost 14
RaptorMan23

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Sioux City, IA

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Like I said....probibly didnt get the rear bearing seated all the way. Same concept

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03-26-2009 12:15 AM  8 years agoPost 15
lightningrc

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UK

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The piston dont look well for a start

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03-26-2009 08:52 AM  8 years agoPost 16
mchammer

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California,USA

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If the rear bearing has to much play that can happen to. Reagrds Pete
or bearing not seated as already said.

Peace Through Superior Firepower!!!

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03-26-2009 02:10 PM  8 years agoPost 17
felony44

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Eastlake,Oh

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Leif, I will check the play in the bearing that could be it.

I will also make sure IF I rebuild to make sure to seat the rear bearing all the way in.

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03-26-2009 02:23 PM  8 years agoPost 18
RappyTappy

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North Denver,​Colorado

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Get a new motor imo. Its cheaper to do that than to replace all the internals(bearing, piston assembly, and sleeve) to get it to perform as new again. And you get a warranty on it, versus blowing the money on the parts and then if something happens you're SOL.

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03-26-2009 06:22 PM  8 years agoPost 19
lightningrc

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UK

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Think its impossible to not seat the rear bearing all the way in as when you tighten the crank nut it will pull the bearing in , unless or course you did not tighten fully.

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03-26-2009 06:35 PM  8 years agoPost 20
nivlek

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Norfolk England

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Have you checked the little end/gudgeon pin for wear ?

EDIT : Thinking about it , that couldn't have caused it anyway .

At the end of the day , it gets dark .

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