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Henseleit TDR MP-XLE MP-E
› 3dmpe Flybarless Head instructions
03-18-2009 02:27 AM  8 years agoPost 1
Parsifal

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Singapore

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Hi,

I just picked up a flybarless conversion for the 3dmpe from Revolution Models with the intention of converting mine. Problem is the instructions are in German. Would anyone have instructions in english or know what the key things to do are? Any assistance would be much appreciated.

Thanks.

Regards,

Pars

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03-18-2009 05:08 PM  8 years agoPost 2
Parsifal

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Singapore

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somebody? anybody?

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03-19-2009 05:33 AM  8 years agoPost 3
trexml

rrApprentice

clarence ny

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Go to this link and copy and paste the german instructions then go to google translate and translate it. But it is self explanatory if you just look at the picture...very simple. good luck...I did mine and it flies very well. http://www.henseleit-helicopters.de/pdf/V-Stabi.pdf

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03-19-2009 06:10 AM  8 years agoPost 4
Parsifal

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Singapore

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Ha.. thanks a lot for that, i did that already, but was a bit concerned when part of the translation related to seaweed.
The rotor head conversion kit makes the simple and fast change possible of the MP rotor head for the use of an electronic stabilization system, with which the paddle seaweeds no longer is necessary.

Remove first the complete mixture controls as well as the paddle seaweeds and the linkages from the paddle head (the rotor head can be left in addition on the helicopter). Everything else like the sheet grasps, guide insert 0122 as well as the brass ball 0128a remain further installed.

Since the two special ball pins 128b, which are screwed on to the brass ball with Loctite, break off with a disassembly easily, I recommend to leave them installed. Remove only the two set-screws, which wedged the paddle seaweeds.

Turn now the ball into a position that the ball pins do not out-look no more as before laterally from the central piece, but their axle perpendicularly in driveshaft longitudinal axis stands. The ball is pushed so far downward, until the ball pin on the driveshaft top side rests upon.

Thus you stopped the correct height equal the ball in the central piece. Now the two driver forks made of plastic are screwed on according to design with the M3x 16 screws to the ball. Turn the ball in addition into a position, in which the M3 drillings lies centrically to the narrow slots of the central piece.

The M3x 16 screws is tightened sensitively with Loctite. Align thereby the two forks centrically at the central piece. The outside edges lie then concisely with the flattening of the central piece. Screw now the 4mm ball pin with Loctite onto the conical side of the 19mm long knuckle pins and install you the M3x 12mm threaded rods on the other side of the pin.

The knuckle pins become subsequently, at the sheet grasp arms installs there, where the mixture controls were bolted on before. The ball joints are screwed both approx. 7mm far onto the respective linkage, so that between the faces a distance from approx. 41mm stops to exist and it in the 90° angle to each other.

Fasten now first the linkages above to the sheet grasp arms and then down to two that Swash plate ball pin. If a lighter disalignment should have to be determined to the slot of the driver fork with imprinting the second linkage, there are the following possibilities of the correction. Control first whether one of the sheet grasp arms is not bent and aligns you it otherwise with smooth pliers again something.

Otherwise the driver forks can be shifted by loosening of the screw also some more, so that or it insists still the possibility fits on a side the knuckle pin with an appropriate close tolerance spacer to under-feed, so that the linkages do not wedge in the slots.

Finally the swash plate teachings are put under the swash plate and the fine adjustment of the linkages is made, so that the sheets get an adjustment angle of 0°.

Note! the attitude of the main rotor blades is made more difficult by the missing paddle seaweeds as orientation level.

Place the helicopter on an even plate, so that you can regard the sheet teachings from the helicopter front. Behind the helicopter you must create a horizontal datum line (e.g. horizontal line at a wall), so that you can align to it the blade angle. Since it did not transfer with from the MFS head to a paddleless system changes of the ways gives, you can leave all other attitudes in such a way. The remaining attitude takes place then in the software of the electronic stabilization system.
Most concerned about the last bit actually, with respect to achieving a 0 degree pitch and centre stick. How did you guys achieve this?

Thanks again for the link. Much appreciated.

Regards,

Pars

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03-25-2009 10:09 PM  8 years agoPost 5
Stet

rrElite Veteran

Key Largo FL

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I have some pics of it built in my gallery, send me PM if you have questions.

keepin' it real

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03-26-2009 10:36 AM  8 years agoPost 6
Parsifal

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Singapore

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Thanks a lot! will do. I think i have sorta managed the head assembly correctly with the help of Reesy and Trex , waiting for servos to arrive and then the daunting task of setting up the V-bar unit begins.

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03-26-2009 11:51 AM  8 years agoPost 7
helinutz

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Bournemouth, Dorset,​UK

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Cant wait to hear your opinion of it in flybarless form.
It was a blast when it was in flybared mode.
Just set up my flybarless logo (newbie on v-bar stuff) and I just calibrated the Tx and loaded the preset model. 1 trim flight and it was 90% there.
Theres a 3dmp-XLE preloaded model that will be perfect for the MP as they are basically the same, so would def go with that.
Keep us posted (and post some piccies)

>>>>>I'm so broke, I cant even pay attention!<<<<<

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03-26-2009 03:07 PM  8 years agoPost 8
Jag72

rrProfessor

South of Boston

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Here's mine...

Set this up last summer...

They fly great

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03-27-2009 03:41 AM  8 years agoPost 9
Parsifal

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Singapore

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Yours was the one that got me on this money sucking adventure to begin with...!!! That canopy is awesome!

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