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Other › Two questions (L600) - blades won't fit + warped​herringbone gear!
03-18-2009 12:51 AM  8 years agoPost 1
Hogster

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Surrey, UK

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Hi all

I'm currently stretching my L600 to swing a set of 710 blades kindly donated by a fellow modeler - see below:

Lovely aren't they! Although I don't even know what brand they are! ....

But the problem is this:

As you can see, the root of the blades hit up against the feathering spindle bolt, meaning it's not possible to get a bolt through the blade (AND that's without a 5mm to 4mm adaptor I'll need to find to use the Logo 600's stock 4mm blade bolts) ... At the risk of being branded a fool, what is the risk of trimming off the marked area of the blade root to get around this interference?

The blades didn't cost me anything, so it's not like I'm out of pocket if the blades can't be used on this heli but I would love it if they could. The heli is going to be used for aerial photography, so the blades will never see 3D flying ... is it still too much of a risk to touch the roots with a saw as they were clearly built that way for a reason?

My second question is regarding the main gear which came with the L600 when I bought it virtually new off another modeler. Does this main gear look too warped to be used?

http://www.vimeo.com/3730863

I've tried fiddling with the tightness of the screws holding the one-way bearing to the gear with no luck ....

Any thoughts on either of these issues would be most appreciated!

Cheers

David

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03-18-2009 01:49 AM  8 years agoPost 2
Terrabit

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Seattle, WA - USA

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Not a clue on the blades but ...

I see the wobble. I can't really tell if it is coming from the gear or the shaft. I'd pull the shaft and roll it on a piece of glass to be sure it's not your culpret. You might get away with running that. I wouldn't. But you could just see if it vibrates when you spin it up.

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03-18-2009 02:26 AM  8 years agoPost 3
Foster

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Saline MI

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I suspect there isnt a person here that will comment on cutting the blades. Furthermore are you seriously considering lifting a camera setup with hacked up donated blades?

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03-18-2009 03:33 AM  8 years agoPost 4
Terrabit

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Seattle, WA - USA

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Foster, there is probably another way for you to speak your mind that doesn't come off quite so condescending. You probably wouldn't appreciate that either.

Play nice.

Judging by the level of detail in the original post, I'd say the man is not short on intelligence. Besides, those blades look pretty sweet. I can see why he'd want to find a way to make them work.

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03-18-2009 07:46 AM  8 years agoPost 5
maxxteezy

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texas

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can you get the blades in the grips with them swung completely out? If so just mount them before you take off.

YardBird Rc
Team Hardcore
Team LunaTickz
Mikes Hobby Shop

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03-18-2009 09:25 AM  8 years agoPost 6
Hogster

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Surrey, UK

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Thanks for your replies guys

I think Foster's comment was just in this case - it is quite a risk to put a heli in the air carrying close to £1000 of camera gear with blades that have been modified, just to save some £80 or so (even though the blades are unflown) ...

maxx - The blades will fit if they're swung out completely, but that would be a bit of a last resort as it would be very inconvenient having to fit them and remove them whenever I wanted to transport the heli (eg. around a construction site).

The only other possibility is if the feathering spindle bolts can somehow be made to protrude less ... it's strange that the bolts sit flush with the inside of the blade grip in the stock flybarred version of the rotorhead, and yet with flybarless the entire head of each bolt sticks out into the blade bay I think if that wasn't the case the blades would fit without issue ....

*looks at instruction manual* EHH?! According to these pictures the bolt heads shouldn't protrude as they do with the flybarless head I've got here Maybe the guy used the wrong feathering spindle? Although I would have thought the flybarless upgrade came in its own bag? ...

Hmmm I will try to dismantle the head later and see where the problem is ... if I can get it to look like the diagrams here I should be good to go!

Will keep you posted, and thanks again for your help

David

PS. Regarding the main gear, you could be right about the main shaft being the problem, Terrabit ... If I rotate the gear such that the shaft stays still, there isn't nearly as much flex visible on the edge of the main gear ... barely 0.5mm if that. Maybe I should just get a new gear and shaft anyway ... hmmm

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03-18-2009 02:10 PM  8 years agoPost 7
Foster

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Saline MI

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Thanks Terrabit you're right that didn't sound very nice but I'm glad Hogster took it the right way... I didn't want to sound condescending just honesty and shocked is all I was going for. Didn't help that the reply was rushed either

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03-18-2009 02:45 PM  8 years agoPost 8
GyroFreak

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Orlando Florida​...28N 81W

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I had a set 720 mm of blades that wouldn't swing but would mount. I only had to trim a tiny bit of the corner edge and they worked fine. According to your picture you were showing a lot of cutting all around the root. If that were true I would not use the blades. If it's just a small corner filing, then it worked for me.

I think about the hereafter. I go somewhere to get something, then wonder what I'm here after ?

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03-18-2009 02:53 PM  8 years agoPost 9
Hogster

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Surrey, UK

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Hi guys

I've had another look around and it seems only the CAD drawings from the instruction manual show the feathering spindle bolts hiding inside the blade grips ... on all the photos I've seen of flybarless Logo 600 heads the bolts do indeed stick out into the blade well (area where you fit the blades)

I'm going to see if I can replace the hex-head feathering spindle bolts with slotted screws to save a bit of space and I might not have to trim of any of the blades at all Or if I do it will probably only be the corners as GyroFreak mentioned.

By the way, where do you guys get 4mm to 5mm adaptors from so you can use M4 blade bolts in blades with 5mm fixing holes? I've asked the Mikado importer (where I get all my Mikado spares from) and they're going to get back to me ....

Thanks again guys

David

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03-18-2009 05:01 PM  8 years agoPost 10
TOSH

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UK.Peterborough

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By the way, where do you guys get 4mm to 5mm adaptors from so you can use M4 blade bolts in blades with 5mm fixing holes? I've asked the Mikado importer (where I get all my Mikado spares from) and they're going to get back to me ....
They would usually come with the blades. lf you`ve got a mate using 5mm bolts he may have some spare.
l`ve trimmed the blades that way before but not as much as that line you`ve drawn. l`d hate to tell you to go for it and it fails even tho l might give it a go myself. ( so l wont )

Flybars. Who needs `em.

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03-18-2009 05:15 PM  8 years agoPost 11
Hogster

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Surrey, UK

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Hey TOSH

Revolution Models (the shop in question) found some NHP 4-5mm bushings which I've bought together with a bunch of other bits - new main gear, new main shaft, new pinion (calculated the size I want), some tail boom clamps to fashion a battery support from, and some new blade bolts from a Maxi Joker ... should be good to go!

Darn this hobby is expensive!

David

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03-18-2009 05:43 PM  8 years agoPost 12
TOSH

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UK.Peterborough

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Yup, one of our more helpfull shops for sure.

Flybars. Who needs `em.

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03-18-2009 06:02 PM  8 years agoPost 13
Hogster

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Surrey, UK

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Yeah I love dealing with them! Extremely helpful over the phone, good prices, and virtually always have all the bits I want (which are often totally random and unrelated!) in stock!

Doesn't help my wallet of course!

David

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03-18-2009 09:07 PM  8 years agoPost 14
ivor-bigen

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Harlow. UK

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There shiping is spot on too.

Mikado

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03-18-2009 11:37 PM  8 years agoPost 15
Hogster

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Surrey, UK

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Excellent news

I found a pair of nice flat-head M5 screws at home which, when fitted, allow the blades to sit in place with no filing whatsoever! These are the screws (top is the stock bolt, bottom is the type of screw I've found):

They seem to be extremely sturdy to me and I can't see why they wouldn't be up to the task of replacing the stock feathering spindle bolts? Yes they're a bit shorter but that shouldn't matter too much?

At least I won't have to touch the blades now

Your thoughts are most welcome!

Cheers,

David

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03-19-2009 09:13 AM  8 years agoPost 16
Blackrat

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South Africa ;-)

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they not high tensile bolts, no ways i would use them, look at the unbrako cap screw catalog for some shallow head capscrews (buttons may even work)

and 4mm shanked bolts on the grips with 700 blades ?, rather stick a 5mm drill bit thru the grips and use m5 bolts , again imo ... after seeing several bent m4 bolts myself and a fellow pilot have done this and feel much more at ease :-D

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03-19-2009 12:06 PM  8 years agoPost 17
Hogster

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Surrey, UK

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Hi guys

I've decided not to go with those screws so I'm now looking for new blades ....

I'm currently deliberating between Rotortech 710s:

http://www.fast-lad.co.uk/store/pro...roducts_id=4362

Which tabbytabb raved about here:

http://runryder.com/helicopter/t446521p1/

(well, not about the 710's directly, but Rotortech's in general)

... but they're semi-syms and apparently balloon quite a lot in gusty weather ....

or possibly SAB 710s:

http://www.modelhelicopters.co.uk/a...Blades_Sab.html

Any comments / suggestions on the blade front would be most appreciated I'm sort of after the best of everything - highly efficient lift for a low amp draw AND little ballooning in gusty weather .... any ideas??

Many thanks

David

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03-19-2009 02:00 PM  8 years agoPost 18
Hogster

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Surrey, UK

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Oops sorry those Rotortech's are fully symmetrical, at least the ones that Fast Lad stock are ...

Hmmm Tabb was using semi-symmetrical ones there though ... Can't seem to find a stockist of semi-symmetrical 710mm Rotortechs ...

Would you say the symmetrical 710mm Rotortechs are still worth going for?

Cheers

David

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03-20-2009 01:20 AM  8 years agoPost 19
Hogster

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Surrey, UK

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When I got home today I had a closer inspection of just how much of the blade root was interfering with the spindle bolt ... as it turned out, not as much as I expected. In fact, the blade bolt could *almost* be passed right through the 710mm blades when they were outstretched!

So going on the advice of others who've sanded off a small amount of their blade's roots, I clamped the two blades together through the bolt hole, and used a bench-mounted disc sander to carefully sand away the root of the blade, mm at a time. I used the bolt which was holding the blades together as a pivot by sinking it into a hole in a block of wood underneath - this meant the resulting curve sanded into the blade would be a perfect arc - allowing the blades to easily fold back next to each other for storage, whilst removing the absolute minimum of material.

This is the result:

and a before and after:

and a shot with them mounted:

After sanding, I sealed the ends of the blade with thin CA, which I then sanded with fine sandpaper, sealed with thin CA again, etc, 3 times.

As it was mainly the < section I sanded off, I barely removed any material – at least material which was obviously necessary to ensure the strength of the blade root. Any thoughts?

CRCR - Hmmm I had considered that, but there's so little metal for the alley key to bite on, I was afraid that reducing the thickness of the head even more would risk the cap socket stripping ... which would be a REAL pain to remove then!

Cheers guys

David

PS. I don't suppose you guys could guess what this is for on the underside of one of the blades? Maybe for balancing purposes? It's a strange soft rubber material - like the sort you would get around baths .... and it's sunken into the blade, so there was obviously a hole there that had been filled in ...

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03-20-2009 02:04 AM  8 years agoPost 20
kogibankole

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albuquerque/ibadan

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it should be fine...however I have heard of Raptor blades delaminating

if im not blade bogging youll find me pack puffing

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Other › Two questions (L600) - blades won't fit + warped​herringbone gear!
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