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HelicopterAvant RC Avant Aurora - Mostro › New Torque Tube - Any Build Tips
03-17-2009 09:33 PM  8 years agoPost 1
APOPHIS

rrApprentice

New York - USA &​Manchester UK

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Just building up my new Aurora and notice the torque tube has changed from earlier versions.

The new torque tube ends are secured with two set screws, i'm not 100% keen on the idea and would like to see any pictures of hear any build tips for this step!

Thanks in advance
Christian

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03-17-2009 09:47 PM  8 years agoPost 2
Ghostrider

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San Diego, CA

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I sand the ends with a little bit of 400 before I glue them on. Then I take 30 min epoxy on a q-tip and put it into the ends before I stick them on the tube. It doesn't take much. Make sure you tighten the grub screws a couple turns at a time for each side so that they tighten up equally to keep the ends as square as possible.

Other than that, try your best to get the bearings on square to the tube. Easier said than done.

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03-18-2009 03:34 PM  8 years agoPost 3
APOPHIS

rrApprentice

New York - USA &​Manchester UK

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thanks sam!

On the manual the tube looks to have holes in the tube for the grub screws to go through and into the plastic center in the tube, this would make sense as it's going through the tube but my tube has no holes and i'm abit unsure about how secure the drive will be as the grub screws are only threded into the plastic drive ends and have to put force on the alloy tube.

Is this right?

thanks in advance
Christian

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03-18-2009 03:38 PM  8 years agoPost 4
Ghostrider

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San Diego, CA

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Yah, the holes are gone now. My understanding is that when you pierce or pin the tube, it actually weakens the tube so they have gone away from that technique.

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03-18-2009 05:33 PM  8 years agoPost 5
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rrApprentice

New York - USA &​Manchester UK

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Done one end,.... is this right?

the grub screws are just proud of the surface, not sure whether to tighten anymore in case i strip the plastic of threads.

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03-18-2009 05:46 PM  8 years agoPost 6
Ghostrider

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San Diego, CA

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Looks pretty good but it's hard to tell how much of the grub screw is sticking out from those pics. You may need one or two more turns on the grubs but I cant know for sure.

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03-18-2009 05:58 PM  8 years agoPost 7
APOPHIS

rrApprentice

New York - USA &​Manchester UK

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Hi sam,

I can probably get about another half turn on the grub screw, give or take!!... i think anymore and it will strip the plastic. I did both sides like you said and they both bottomed out as they touched the metal tube but then i got a few more turns on each as they bite into the tube, the grub screws are not perfectly flush but just proud of the plastic surface.

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03-18-2009 06:26 PM  8 years agoPost 8
Ghostrider

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San Diego, CA

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That sounds perfect!

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03-18-2009 08:12 PM  8 years agoPost 9
DoxWrangler

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At a flying field​near you

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Any way you can post a larger pic? They were like thumbnail size for me.

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03-18-2009 11:35 PM  8 years agoPost 10
merlin3

rrKey Veteran

dayton, ohio

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I don't think they sit flush so I would be careful not to overtighten them.

Justin - Team Horizon, Team Byron
2-700x, Trex 700n, small helis

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03-19-2009 04:57 PM  8 years agoPost 11
John Benario

rrVeteran

Las Vegas

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The actual reason there are no holes in the tube is it is a difficult manufacturing process to have a hole punched in the tube line up with the holes in the (imperfectly) molded ends. It can be done, witness the Vigor/vibe, but those ends are machined and JR isn't afraid to charge enough money to do it right.

The work around for the Aurora parts is to glue the ends on the tube, and then drill all the way through with a drill press so that the setscrews can provide interference to the tube. It is bad mechanical design to rely on friction from a setscrew. Proper design is for setscrews to provide interference with a flat or a hole, not friction.

John Benario

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