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Other › Carbon Tail Tensioner Trouble
03-17-2009 04:18 PM  8 years agoPost 1
LJS

rrKey Veteran

Minnesota, USA

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Hi All,

Having heard a number of reports of belts jumping and breaking, I decided to order the carbon tail tensioner:

http://www.readyheli.com/MIK4175_Car..._p/mik4175.htm

Well IMHO, that was a waste of money. The bearing ended up being off center on the belt and the bearing does not span the belt. It looked like an accident waiting to happen. I took it off right away. Sorry, but I didn't have the forethought to take a photo.

So I went to plan B and put four tail grip bearings on the original idler and cut the spacers down to .290" each. That looks like something that will work and it provides metal contact with the belt so that I can ground it to the boom. I'll post a photo tonight when I get home.

I don't believe that I'm the first to do this modification. I'm sure that I've seen others do the same thing although I couldn't find them when I did a search.

Keep 'em flying.
LJS

Logo 600 VBar, 10S
TRex 600E VBar, 8S
Logo 500 VBar, 6S
TRex 600ESP, 6S

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03-18-2009 12:11 AM  8 years agoPost 2
helicraze

rrElite Veteran

Victoria - Australia

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I have left mine stock, just make sure you do not tighten the bolt tight otherwise the bearings will want to lock up. Also i run the belt tight.
As for the belt i think its a good idea to replace once a year before it breaks.

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03-18-2009 12:18 AM  8 years agoPost 3
OICU812

rrMaster

Edson, Alberta,​Canada

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The bearing does not need to cover the whole belt, I thought the same thing. I like to experiment as well however I have done a few things...

One was an idea similar to what you say on the 3 bearing mod, other was as you see in background a 3DMP style type bearing for on top of belt, I also have two machines running the stock 4175 that prior to winter sleep had no issues with the belt coming off, Danny J only uses the 4175 as well with no issues and flies much harder than us. The key is it does not allow lift of the belt, it only needs to cover a few mm of the belt width to do this. If you do want it more center simple put a 3mm washer in behind the supplied tube, but that is just looks thing really.

Some of my freinds for their own personal mind set run the stock supplied system with the new 4175 behind that, then you know for fact it will never go anywhere. Many ideas work, whatever you are most comfortable with in the end.

I also have seen many that run nothing but stock, the most important key in assuring you will not have issue is making sure your tail box is square, if the belt runs true there really is no issue of it going off course.

...Once upon a time there were Nitros, flybars and frequency pins...

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03-19-2009 03:28 AM  8 years agoPost 4
cal1nu

rrNovice

Boston, MA

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"Orange Color" Drive belts

Do those "orange color" drive belts wear down and break over time? Or do they last forever and doesn't need to be replaced. I heard they are made of Kevlar, which is the stuff used to make bullet proof vests.

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03-19-2009 03:38 AM  8 years agoPost 5
Terrabit

rrElite Veteran

Seattle, WA - USA

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Oh yeah, they will break. Nothing is impervious to the time and torture. It's reasonable to expect a good year out it depending on how rough you are with your hels.

Mine is coated with graphite.

Sorry about that crappy picture.

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