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HelicopterGasser Model RC HelicoptersOther › 1005 clutch problem.
03-16-2009 06:41 PM  8 years agoPost 1
Asid

rrVeteran

uk

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Hi folks

MA Gasser 1005
Zenoah G23PUH + 167a carb

My problem: 105-66 (clutch pinion gear) is assembled in to the bearing block (105-60) at the factory. However i found play in the the pinion to bearing (0183) joint. It seems the pinion has been spinning and worn so it is no longer a tight fit in the bearing. This allows the clutch to "wobble" i believe this has caused premature main gear wear.

Also the urethane dampers are worn allowing the clutch pins that locate in the fan hub to move.

Any ideas?

I have heard of a fix using bergen clutch parts? Any info?

Regards

If it ain't broke then break it.

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03-17-2009 02:06 AM  8 years agoPost 2
pphil611

rrApprentice

South Dakota

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1005 clutch

Yes I had that problem on one of my 1005's. Bought it used and took everything apart, and found the same problem.
I aparently found it before it caused too much damage, the OD on the pinion shaft was not worn down. I replaced the bearing with a new bearing, (10 x 19 x 5 MM). Use a sealed bearing, (not the ZZ type shielded) Bocca bearing has them. Some where I read when you reassemble it to use a heavy lock-tite or JB-Weld on the OD and ID of the bearing. Aparently there is a tendency for the shaft to spin in the bearing bore at the high RPM and the lock-tite or JB will stop that problem. Reason for using a sealed bearing is once its together you dont want to go into it again for lubrication. Any way that was two or three years ago and I haven't had any more problems. Part number for the clutch dampeners is 0546-16.

Also you can bet the 105-74 Delrin ball, and possably the bore in the fan where it fits are worn.

Spectra-G, MAH, CSM

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03-17-2009 02:27 AM  8 years agoPost 3
Asid

rrVeteran

uk

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Thanks some good info

i measured the top of the pinion and its 9.9mm. Is it possible for the i.d. of the ballrace to wear?

regards

If it ain't broke then break it.

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03-17-2009 02:33 AM  8 years agoPost 4
pphil611

rrApprentice

South Dakota

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Pinion

Not sure if the bearing material or the pinion shaft is harder. I guess you can try to fit a 10 MM bearing on the shaft and see how loose it is. If its loose you probably need a new pinion. I think of all the bearings in the Heli that one probably works harder than any other due to the vibration of the gear mesh and the RPM.

Also forgot to mention I found the same problem on the lower clutch bearing (105-70) the bearing ID was loose on the shaft, and the shaft was spinning in the bearing bore, I put a dab of JB Weld there also.

Spectra-G, MAH, CSM

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03-17-2009 11:29 AM  8 years agoPost 5
cfranks

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Adelaide South​Australia

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I wore a few clutch pinions and especially the dampers, on my old 1005 but never looked back after fitting the Bergen upgrade. Much better assembly and definately recommended (if it is still available)..

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03-17-2009 11:50 AM  8 years agoPost 6
Asid

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uk

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Hi There

Do you have any more info?

What parts are involved?

Regards

If it ain't broke then break it.

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03-17-2009 03:03 PM  8 years agoPost 7
OldSkoolXcell60

rrNovice

Melbourne, FL, USA

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I'm not a huge fan of the original 1005 clutch/bellhousing/upper bearing block either. Though that setup works flawlessly on the 60 size models, the additional vibration and torque (especially with the modded gas engines) just plays havoc on the assembly.

Mine had huge amounts of play between the pinion and the bearing block. I bought another pinion and JB Welded it to the inside of the bearing but decided not even to use this setup. Instead I went with a later style setup that MA offers (it looks almost identical to a Spectra G clutch) but with the correct gear ratio for the 1005. My side frames were older (the newer frames are double slotted to allow for more options of bearing blocks) so the upper frames required some modification to get the bolt holes of the new styled bearing block to align themselves. Have not had any issues with this new setup, the block is considerably taller and more stoute than the original parts.

If you are still interested in the Bergen route however go to "http://www.bergenrc.com/SearchResul...slist=true";

These might give you some idea as to the parts you will need for your conversion.

http://www.bergenrc.com/partpics/images/1276G.jpg
http://www.bergenrc.com/partpics/images/1290.jpg
http://www.bergenrc.com/partpics/images/1290.jpg (not sure what tooth pinion you run)

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