The Caliber 30 (and many other helis) will wobble badly if your head speed is too low.
The Caliber wants a head speed of at least 1800 RPM, and loves 2000 to 2100 RPM. If you're in the less than 1800 RPM range, the heli will wobble in the air as if it's going to explode.
You will also see a "wobble" as you spool up the head until the centrifugal force present forces the two blades to their correct flying position. If the one of the blades has too much lead or lag in it when you start up the head, the entire head is unbalanced and the heli will shake momentarily as you spool it up.
The blade bolts need to be tight enough so that when you straighten them out, then turn the heli on its side, the blades stay in position until you give the heli a bit of a shake.
Too loose, or too tight on the blade grips can cause weird problems.
The smoke, the oil coming from you motor is an indication that you are way too rich on the needles. The fact that your heli is wobbling also tells me that you're too rich and as as result, the head speed is too low.
The OS 32 carb is not an easy carb to tune, as the low speed needle (the one that's recessed into the carburetor barrel on the motor's right hand side) affects the main needle setting up to 75% - 80% full throttle setting.
If you get the low-speed needle too lean, you'll find that you have a great idle, and a great transition up till about 80% throttle. As you open the throttle further, suddenly, the motor seems to be too rich. You adjust the main needle to correct THAT, and suddenly, the motor begins to sag in flight above 80% throttle, quits lean, and usually results in a scored piston, ring, and cylinder.
Mechanically on your Caliber 30, full throttle should open the throttle barrel all the way, without stalling the servo.
Full LOW throttle and FULL LOW TRIM should close the barrel completely, without stalling the servo.
With these two settings, you should see the following behavior:
Full low throttle, full low trim, the motor will not start. You can use this to kill the motor from the TX any time you need to.
Full low throttle, mid-throttle trim setting, the motor will start, it will idle well, and the clutch will not be engaged.
Full low throttle, full throttle trim setting, the clutch will engage and the head will begin to turn.
First step is to set the two needles at the factory recommended setting. With the low speed needle and the Caliber 30 (and most other helis) you'll need to drop the motor so you can look down the carburetor barrel. The low speed needle is adjusted using a flat-tip jeweler's screwdriver.
Once you get the two needles set at the recommended factory setting, start the motor, and USE YOUR THROTTLE TRIM TAB to set the idle speed
. Resist the temptation to adjust the low speed needle to get a good, steady idle at this point. Doing so will guarantee a very lean top end and a fried motor.
Once you have the motor running and are keeping it alive with the throttle trim setting, increase throttle to the point where you Caliber is just about to lift off. It will be very light on its skids. The motor should pick up RPM without spitting, coughing, choking, gurgling, and it should not instantly die.
The transition from idle to the near-lift off point should be steady and even. If the motor spits out a lot of fuel, blubbers, or speeds up erratically, your low speed needle is too rich, and needs to be leaned out a bit.
If, as you increase the throttle, the motor either just quits (without a lot of fuel present) or hesitates, then picks up, the idle is too lean.
Eventually, you will check the low-speed needle setting by letting the motor sit at idle for about 30 seconds, then you will simply pinch off the fuel line and watch what the motor does. It should continue to run for about 3 - 5 seconds before picking up speed and stopping. If it runs much longer than that, the idle is too rich.
If, on the other hand, the motor quits almost instantly, or stops before the first three seconds, the idle is too lean, and must be richened up a hair.
This is the "pinch test" you may run across as you read more and talk to more pilots.
Back to the initial needle settings...you've gotten the low speed needle adjusted now so that from idle to the near lift-off point, the transition is smooth with no blubbering, coughing, spitting, or hesitation.
Also, at the near-lift off point, the motor should be running fairly well, and should be developing sufficient power to get you into a hover without problems.
Once you have the low-end set, the next step is to fly with the throttle wide open and note how the motor sounds, and how it is performing. You adjust the high speed needle (the big one that you use your fingers for adjusting) to get the top end set correctly.
I find that if you simply nail the throttle wide-open and let the heli climb, you can tell a lot about how well the top end needle is set. You want the heli to climb well, the motor to run strong and not bog down or begin to sag. Gradually (a couple of clicks at a time) lean out the main needle so that you get power, a good, steady climb, and the motor doesn't begin to sag off as you keep the load on it. That is an indication that the top end is too lean. Throttle back quickly, land richen up a few clicks.
It's a trial and error process. As you get both needles set initially, go back and fine tune them, as they do interact with each other.
Stay a bit on the rich side at full throttle to keep your motor happy.
With an OS 32, the Caliber will want to see about +/- 9 degrees of collective pitch, maximum. You don't want to exceed about 6 degrees of cyclic pitch on elevator and aileron.
I generally have my Caliber 30's set up for -3 / +6 / +9 degrees (three point curve to start with, adjust the other points to suit your motor, fuel, and local conditions) for Normal flight mode.
My Idle up 1 setting is usually something on the order of -5 / +6 / +9, and my Idle up 2 setting is usually -9 / 0 / +9.
Throttle curves for Normal mode have been 0 to 100 linear, something on the order of 60 / 50 / 100 in Idle up 1 (fine tune later as you are flying the heli), and 100 / 70 /100 in idle up 2.
With an OS 37 and decent muffler the +/-9 degrees pitch settings can usually increase to +/- 11 degrees.
Retain the 6 degrees of aileron and elevator cyclic.
At hover, if you find the head speed too low and the heli wanting to wobble (even in forward flight) you'll want to increase the throttle curve setting, and reduce the pitch curve value to get higher head RPM.
I find that at hover, I sometimes need to bump up the HOVER THROTTLE setting, and tweak the HOVER PITCH settings on my TX to get a decent head speed without messing up the overall pitch and throttle curves.
The third post here:http://www.runryder.com/helicopter/t206926p1/
describes in great detail the initial setup of your Caliber 30 mechanics. I wrote it several years ago and it's helped a lot of people since then get their Calibers up and running.
The ninth post herehttp://runryder.com/helicopter/t272559p1/
again walks you through the OS 32 tuning.
About your starter. You MUST use a starter wand that has a one-way clutch installed in it, or as you've seen, it's very difficult to remove the start shaft after the motor is running. If you continue to use a starter wand without a one-way clutch in it, you'll also eventually round out the hex tip of the start shaft.
This start shaft works great, has the one-way clutch, and has lasted me for several years now:http://www.heliproz.com/prodinfo.asp?number=805390
* Making the World Better -- One Helicopter at a time! *