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HelicopterAlignT-REX 600N › push pull throttle can it work
12-26-2008 05:38 PM  8 years agoPost 1
tomheli

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west chester pa

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it seemed ok but rods never matched up at full thro or idle has anybody tryed this or will it hurt the servo

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12-26-2008 05:40 PM  8 years agoPost 2
george0079

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USA

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sure. you can make it a push pull. but why would you need to?

Hell... I can fix that.
Uh oh..
Nope.
It's ***ked!!!
RE-KIT!!!!!

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12-26-2008 05:46 PM  8 years agoPost 3
tomheli

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west chester pa

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in case one fell off

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12-26-2008 05:49 PM  8 years agoPost 4
tomheli

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west chester pa

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you could still fly as long as the poped off rod did not jam

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12-26-2008 05:53 PM  8 years agoPost 5
george0079

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USA

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If the throttle linkage is worn to the point that it's popping off, then you have bigger issues than a push pull redundancy

Hell... I can fix that.
Uh oh..
Nope.
It's ***ked!!!
RE-KIT!!!!!

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12-26-2008 06:01 PM  8 years agoPost 6
QuantumPSI

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Atlanta, GA

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Well if I ever had to choose which linkage I wanted to pop off from a servo, it would definitely be the throttle. Even if she popped off and stayed at full bore, just switch to idle up and bang her around to keep her loaded until she runs out of fuel.... hmmm sounds like an experiment to try

...now where was I, dh/dt = BS-dx/dt
I will fly you forever... till earth do us part

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12-26-2008 06:02 PM  8 years agoPost 7
tomheli

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west chester pa

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good point i will go with single rod set up as i said i could not get rods to match up at endpoints so this could create problems

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12-26-2008 06:05 PM  8 years agoPost 8
tomheli

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west chester pa

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not that far along yet if you see me running try to keep up

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12-26-2008 06:13 PM  8 years agoPost 9
Dood

rrProfessor

Wescanson

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Throttle P/P is on my "things to do list" for my heli's. Read THIS POST from Bob00

  ▲
▲ ▲

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12-26-2008 06:28 PM  8 years agoPost 10
PilotDaz

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Seattle, WA

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Nobody really answered his question.
it seemed ok but rods never matched up at full thro or idle has anybody tryed this or will it hurt the servo
Sounds like your geometry is off if it was binding at idle or full throttle. Your linkage lengths need to be identical, and they should be the same center to center as the distance from your servo horn center to your throttle arm center.

If they aren't the same then yes you'll be putting strain on your servo.

Otherwise it should work just fine. Some people use this on their TT53's to keep the side pressure on the throttle even, to keep it from sticking.

~Team Collective Mayhem - "My anger management class really PISSES ME OFF!"

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12-26-2008 06:31 PM  8 years agoPost 11
Ironhide

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dexter mi us

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Why would you want to add unnecessary weight ? Its just a throttle barrel .Very little or zero resistance . I run micro servos on the throttle barrels .Its seems to be just fine . Think about what servo you use on a trex 250 or a gaui 200 tail servo , would you need more than that for a throttle barrel ? If you are looking for more insurance , so it does not fall off put a small washer on top of the ball . It won't come off then . Just my 2 cents .

I just think guys ( like myself) like to improve there helis , so they add and add things to make it better .But I have also forgotten that it all adds up . Weight wise . Just something to think about . just my 2 cents again .

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12-26-2008 06:56 PM  8 years agoPost 12
tomheli

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west chester pa

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rods lenths were perfect @ 1/2 thro but not @ end points servo would buzz @ idle+full throttle

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12-26-2008 07:08 PM  8 years agoPost 13
PilotDaz

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Seattle, WA

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rods lenths were perfect @ 1/2 thro but not @ end points servo would buzz @ idle+full throttle
Then they weren't perfect. Sorry but it's just as simple as that, you must have been off a bit in your measurements.

Another measurement that is critical in push/pull is that the distance from the center to ball on the servo link must be identical to the distance from center to ball on the throttle arm. If those are off, then you'll also get an imbalance in your geometry.

~Team Collective Mayhem - "My anger management class really PISSES ME OFF!"

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12-26-2008 07:09 PM  8 years agoPost 14
PilotDaz

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Seattle, WA

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Why would you want to add unnecessary weight ?
I agree with you Ironhide. This really is an unnecessary mod. The exception would be if you have an engine whose throttle barrel gets stuck easily (eg: the TT53).

In those cases this mod can help to eliminate the problem.

~Team Collective Mayhem - "My anger management class really PISSES ME OFF!"

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12-26-2008 08:25 PM  8 years agoPost 15
Silvashadow

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Kent, UK

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rods lenths were perfect @ 1/2 thro but not @ end points servo would buzz @ idle+full throttle
For a push pull system to work not only do the rod lengths have to be equal but it is vital that the distance between the ball centres across the servo wheel and across throttle arm are exactly the same. In other words the rods must move absolutly parallel to each other.

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12-26-2008 08:46 PM  8 years agoPost 16
JAGNZ

rrProfessor

Auckland, New​Zealand

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I'd rather have a throttle return spring in place than PP myself...


Jason Greenwood

www.3dheli.co.nz

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12-26-2008 11:33 PM  8 years agoPost 17
alchemist

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Auckland,New Zealand

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Having only one linkage can wear the barrel after a lot of use.

This is because when the servo horn approaches full extension the force becomes more lateral. This lateral force can be balanced by adding a second linkage rod, hence you get even wear.

A push-pull setup is not essential but can be use to either reduce wear or improve performance on a worn throttle barrel (as they can jam when hot). Of course the other option would be to clean/polish the barrel.

Also I would not consider the extra weight as a factor in it's application as it's next to nothing.

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12-29-2008 01:23 AM  8 years agoPost 18
tomheli

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west chester pa

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flew today with one rod so windy i didnt even think about it

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12-29-2008 01:30 AM  8 years agoPost 19
tomheli

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west chester pa

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i agree with pilotdaz i was off somewhere i just couldnt get it perfect mabee snowblind but i dont see a barrel sticking problem i run an air intake screen

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12-29-2008 01:39 AM  8 years agoPost 20
Sam2b

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Seattle, WA

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Regarding the barrel longevity theory with the PP system, it is only as good as you getting the correct linkage rod lengths. If the rods are too short or too long (by a small increment) you can still wear the barrel, and potentially even worse. So the key is to get the linkage rod lengths to where the ball links can be moved laterally by hand easily. It's not merely a matter of throwing on a second rod and calling it good.

_Sam B_
Team MSH USA * Protos Max * Xpert servos * Cyclone Blades * ProgressiveRC * VoltMagic * Ecalc

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