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HelicopterAlignT-REX 700N › Aftermarket screws for the T700?
12-27-2008 10:21 AM  8 years agoPost 21
HoffY

rrNovice

QLD, Australia

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I totally agreee, it is the screw quality (or lack there-of). i am seriously considering getting screw kits for my 700NP as i dont wish for it to happen. I have not had any trouble thus far but i'm keeping a close eye on it when i'm on the drivers because after seeing virtually every 1.5mm Hex screw head strip on a T-REX 500 frame i'm not happy and half expect it on the 7!

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12-27-2008 02:24 PM  8 years agoPost 22
Rototerrier

rrVeteran

Fayetteville, GA -​USA

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I have looked thru many pages at http://www.mcmaster.com and was unable to find the exact size bushing/spacer needed.

I measured one of my collar screws and came up with an 3mmID / 4.4MMOD (.115in / .175in)

What would really be nice if to find a flange spacer that way we wouldn't need washers.

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12-28-2008 02:53 AM  8 years agoPost 23
Nimble Thumbs

rrNovice

LAS VEGAS, NEVADA

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I got tired of the Junk Align button head frame screws and replaced them with standard 3mm x 8mm long hex head black alloy metric screws with standard 3mm washers.

They work great and you can adjust the engine and starter shaft perfectly. Forget using collars. They're just not needed. As a matter of fact, using the junk Align button collar screws, I could never get my starter shaft and engine aligned properly but with the standard hex head screws I can get the starter shaft perfectly aligned so it rotates perfectly smooth. I haven't changed out my main bearing shaft screws but I don't see that as a problem.

Also, stainless steel screws look cool but are not as hard and have a lower tensile strength as compared to common black alloy screws. Use black alloy. They are cheaper and better for this application.

If I can't find exactly what screws I need locally, I use this company for metic screws:

http://www.microfasteners.com/catal...ucts/METSCM.cfm

and if you insist on stainless screws:

http://www.microfasteners.com/catal...cts/METSCMS.cfm

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12-28-2008 07:02 AM  8 years agoPost 24
duke666

rrKey Veteran

Hampshire, UK

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You need the collars on the 700 to keep the frames all nice & square. You could not assemble the frames correctly without them.

Duke

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12-28-2008 02:24 PM  8 years agoPost 25
4cyclic

rrKey Veteran

Montreal, Can. and​northern Vermont

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Would be nice if Quick UK or other would make stainless steel shouldered thick washers with the proper 4.4 mm diameter collar.

Life is meaningful flying helis.

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12-28-2008 02:28 PM  8 years agoPost 26
Rototerrier

rrVeteran

Fayetteville, GA -​USA

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Would be nice if Quick UK or other would make stainless steel shouldered thick washers with the proper 4.4 mm diameter collar.
+1

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12-28-2008 02:42 PM  8 years agoPost 27
Cameron

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St. Johns, Florida

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Maybe Quick UK will read this.

Cameron

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12-28-2008 03:21 PM  8 years agoPost 28
duke666

rrKey Veteran

Hampshire, UK

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While I agree it would be nice if Budd made these screws, clutches, nice anodised alloy parts and whatever other bling we want, it would be nice if Align made everything in the box to a standard so as we could fly without having to buy items solely to keep it in the air!

Duke

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12-28-2008 05:46 PM  8 years agoPost 29
Nimble Thumbs

rrNovice

LAS VEGAS, NEVADA

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You need the collars on the 700 to keep the frames all nice & square. You could not assemble the frames correctly without them.

Duke
And you have tried this like me? You don't need the collar screws. Regular hex head screws actually enable you to get the frame better aligned. With the collar screws you are assuming Align perfectly drilled the frame holes. My frame holes were off and I could never get the starter shaft to turn freely no matter how I adjusted the frame or engine. Now that I have regular screws in, I can adjust the frame perfectly and pull the screws out without slotting and heating them with a soldering iron.

But that's okay, just dismiss what I have to say without giving it a try. Just keep stripping and slotting those cheap Align collar screws and hoping you can get them out. Doesn't matter to me.

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12-28-2008 05:55 PM  8 years agoPost 30
duke666

rrKey Veteran

Hampshire, UK

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Personally I have never had a problem striping or removing these screws. They hold my 600 and my 700E frames nice and square no probs.

Duke

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12-29-2008 01:16 AM  8 years agoPost 31
Qrrambero

rrKey Veteran

San Francisco / Bay​Area

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Nimble ... Relax
Do you mind showing us a picture of your frames.
Personally I would like to see how it looks.
Thanks, and Happy New Year, you are in the right city for this event.

Ae

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12-29-2008 01:18 AM  8 years agoPost 32
Rototerrier

rrVeteran

Fayetteville, GA -​USA

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Nimble, I too would like to see photos of your setup. I have been looking for different ways of trying to get better alignments. I have had 2 clutches and 1 main gear break on me...so I am open to anything at this point.

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12-29-2008 02:25 AM  8 years agoPost 33
Cameron

rrKey Veteran

St. Johns, Florida

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I saw this kit which allows you to adjust the motor and the clutch bell holder thing.

Looks like it would work pretty well.
http://www.helidaddy.com/product_p/hd70003.htm



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12-29-2008 02:46 AM  8 years agoPost 34
Nimble Thumbs

rrNovice

LAS VEGAS, NEVADA

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Here you go. Like I said, I haven't changed out the my main bearing screws or tail yet but I don't see that as a problem. I'll change those out when I get around to it.

The regular hex head screws work great and give you more room to align the engine and starter shaft. I could never get my starter shaft to turn freely. Now I can. I used 3mm x 8mm standard alloy screws with a standard 3mm washer.

Also, my 16 year old flys this like the local Szabo boys...real crazy and nothing has shifted or come loose.

Give it a try. What do you have to lose except stripping, slotting, and soldering your junk Align screws and a lot of aggravation?

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12-29-2008 04:01 AM  8 years agoPost 35
heli3dmax

rrApprentice

DuBois, PA USA

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Stripped out "Socket Button Head Collar​Screw"

MrMel

I use loctite on the threads but I also use a small bit of clear electrical grease under the flat heads of the screws and on the collar as well.

They seat in so much smoother to the carbon and mine pop loose every time when I want them to!

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12-29-2008 07:02 AM  8 years agoPost 36
duke666

rrKey Veteran

Hampshire, UK

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I just heard from Jamie at fast-lad and the RCSCREWZ kit do not have shouldered frame bolts, Even though the advertising suggests they do.

Duke

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12-29-2008 10:17 AM  8 years agoPost 37
Liron alm.

rrApprentice

Israel

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how about this?

i'll send them to Budd from Quick UK and to a local guy.
i counted the sholder screws and i cam up with 42. am i right?

liron

fly hard, land harder

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12-29-2008 10:26 AM  8 years agoPost 38
duke666

rrKey Veteran

Hampshire, UK

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very nice So possibly different colours too

Duke

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12-29-2008 10:53 AM  8 years agoPost 39
Liron alm.

rrApprentice

Israel

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

colors are just for the CAD model, but i'll make some in pink too

dont think it would be cheap to make them in CNC.. maybe Budd will have a better idea - maybe injected mold

fly hard, land harder

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12-29-2008 12:25 PM  8 years agoPost 40
Liron alm.

rrApprentice

Israel

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UPDATE!!!

o.k, i have a local guy here that will make 50pcs per kit for 40$.
they will be made with a CNC and will come in silver anodized, unless we all agree on a different colour.
i'll get other quotes from other manufacturers and keep you posted.
the thing is that the minimum quantity for this price is 200pcs, meaning 4 kits. i'm taking one, but i need to know if other are interested as well, as i dont have any use for 3 additional kits
i'm not taking any profits here, it is calculated as 0.8$ a piece.

let me know if you'r interested

fly hard, land harder

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