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› HBK2 Metal Parts on eBay
12-24-2008 04:19 PM  8 years agoPost 1
racin06

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Indianapolis,​Indiana

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I'm thinking about upgrading my HBK2 to metal head and tail parts. Are these metal parts such as this listing any good?

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12-24-2008 04:32 PM  8 years agoPost 2
broggyr

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Naugy, CT

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From what I have heard on various forums, these parts are softer metal. Not so sure I'd wanna try them, but then I am still quite crash-prone

- Brian
irony [ay-ruh-nee', ay-er-nee'] adj.: Like goldy or bronzy, but made of iron

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12-24-2008 04:41 PM  8 years agoPost 3
tryan02

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Canton, Missouri

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racin I believe there have been some not so great fitting knockoff esky parts sold on ebay. I have the original Esky packaged head from Jags back when all you could buy was pieces and have had no trouble at all. So be warned It does make me envious though knowing I got $120 in my Esky head.

But after assembling the Esky head and working on the TREX head I would rather have the TREX head or copterX clone, mess around with both and youll definitely know what I mean.

As far as softer metal I'm not sure what you meant but the balls are aluminum and need replaced eventually.

No Really I am the club President!!!

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12-24-2008 05:12 PM  8 years agoPost 4
racin06

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Indianapolis,​Indiana

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Yes, I now remember Dougie also mentioning the CopterX head in another thread. So, this is the rotor head set and tail rotor set that fits the HBK2?

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12-24-2008 05:29 PM  8 years agoPost 5
tryan02

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Canton, Missouri

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Well those are the ones but I know nothing about them on the king. You would be best to PM dougie.

I think JWhitacre used the TREX tailbox and dougie for the copterX head.

what I've heardbut havent done it myself.
I believe the mainshaft just needs a mm or two filed down to fit and you have to make an adaptor for the tailbox as it is for the larger diameter boom.

No Really I am the club President!!!

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12-24-2008 06:16 PM  8 years agoPost 6
Gregor99

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Western Wa

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Also the swash on the CopterX has the AR pin in the wrong location. You'll need to add the HBK3 swash or the B400 swash.

The real Esky purple head is only OK for what you get. My main gripes about it are:
  • The balls (except 2) are all made of aluminum and will wear quickly. You can replace the balls with SS balls from the B400. But its expensive.
  • Pitch range is limited. I'm only getting 8 to 9 degress of collective pitch when I have the cyclic pitch set for more than 7. Its plenty for sport flying, but I'd rather have more.
  • Even with all new balls and links, there's slop in the head. If the parts are in good condition, it won't affect tracking or flight. But I still don't like it and other heads don't have it. Or at least not near as much.
  • The link from the blade grip to the mixer arm is one solid piece and prone to build up slop. You can't buy this part seperately. I've replaced the balls and links with the larger balls from a T450. Now I have plenty of ready replacements and the larger balls have less slop over time.
  • There's no flybar cage and the arms have to be lined up with each other and the flybar paddles. Sounds simple, but its time consuming. Not a huge deal, but lots harder than a propper flybar cage

Revolectrix Beta Team

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12-24-2008 06:21 PM  8 years agoPost 7
mayday1

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ca, usa

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Does the copterX head on the stock esky mainshaft give you enough
cyclic range? CopterX heads are cheap and of very good quality

I grafted a mx400 head (mostly metal) onto my
king2 and it was really good for normal mode flying. Tracking
was spot on, and it was extremely stable in circuit flying.

After a dozen or so flights, I flipped to idleup and tried to
invert it. There was simply not enough pitch range to flip.
It took a couple of seconds to even reach vertical, and I couldn't
finish the flip before it hit the ground.

In hind-sight I should have guessed that it has sad roll/flip rate
because it was so stable in sports flying. Last night I started
replacing it with the stock head, but using beltCP mixing arms and
seesaw (with ball-bearings instead of bushings), I hope I'll get
the responsiveness of the stock head, but with more consistent
blade tracking and less slop.

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12-24-2008 11:36 PM  8 years agoPost 8
tryan02

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Canton, Missouri

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The link from the blade grip to the mixer arm is one solid piece and prone to build up slop
I used two ball links cut them down and used rods from the B400 link kit I bought for steel ball conversion to make adjustable links do this and you'll find you get the fine tracking like the extreme turnbuckles.

No Really I am the club President!!!

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12-25-2008 12:29 AM  8 years agoPost 9
norsman

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paradise PA

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I bought that same deal last year,never had a problem with it

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12-27-2008 05:06 PM  8 years agoPost 10
DougsRC

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Mass.

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Does the copterX head on the stock esky mainshaft give you enough
cyclic range? CopterX heads are cheap and of very good quality
Thats exactly why you take 2 mm off the mainshaft. It gives you more cyclic range.

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12-27-2008 05:09 PM  8 years agoPost 11
tryan02

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Canton, Missouri

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I bought that same deal last year,never had a problem with it
probably cause you used a 43t tail pulley.

No Really I am the club President!!!

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12-27-2008 05:45 PM  8 years agoPost 12
DougsRC

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Mass.

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Yes, I now remember Dougie also mentioning the CopterX head in another thread. So, this is the rotor head set and tail rotor set that fits the HBK2?
Thats the one Racin !! Fantastic head for the King or the Belt CP !! Can you believe I sold it cause it was too easy to fly Sometimes I really am a KnuckleHead The thing was silky smooth-very light-easy to fix-parts were cheap. In a crash only bent the spindle with that head .

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12-27-2008 08:39 PM  8 years agoPost 13
Gregor99

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Western Wa

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Thats exactly why you take 2 mm off the mainshaft. It gives you more cyclic range.
Can you elaborate on that? How does shortening the shaft give you more pitch? I would think it'd need to be made longer to have more head travel.

What about the holes? Does the CopterX head using a PIN/bolt or a clamp? Or are you also drilling a new hole?

Greg

Revolectrix Beta Team

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12-27-2008 08:41 PM  8 years agoPost 14
broggyr

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Naugy, CT

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I'd be interested in hearing about this, too...

- Brian
irony [ay-ruh-nee', ay-er-nee'] adj.: Like goldy or bronzy, but made of iron

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12-27-2008 08:49 PM  8 years agoPost 15
DougsRC

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Mass.

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How does shortening the shaft give you more pitch?
It doesn't give you more pitch, it allows full travel on the flybar.
What about the holes? Does the CopterX head using a PIN/bolt or a clamp? Or are you also drilling a new hole?

Greg
No drilling required. You use the King mainshaft-- cut 2 mm off the top, use a swash from a king or B400 or in my case a walkera 60 swash and change two inner swash balls to TREX "Balls" and it works like a charm Dougie said "balls"

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12-27-2008 08:54 PM  8 years agoPost 16
DougsRC

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Mass.

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You know --the thing I hate most bout the purple CNC head are those Damn "ring-like push rods" the flybar cage is a far superior design !! It's not only my opinion--its the truth

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12-27-2008 08:58 PM  8 years agoPost 17
broggyr

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Naugy, CT

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I would have to agree, even tho I don't actually have a flybar cage. Xtreme makes a flybar cage/seesaw/mixing arm assembly, it costs about $45...

http://www.miracle-mart.com/store/i...roducts_id=2473

- Brian
irony [ay-ruh-nee', ay-er-nee'] adj.: Like goldy or bronzy, but made of iron

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12-27-2008 09:03 PM  8 years agoPost 18
Gregor99

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Western Wa

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It doesn't give you more pitch, it allows full travel on the flybar.
Still not quite following you. Does the flybar hit the top of the shaft when tilted?

Revolectrix Beta Team

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12-27-2008 09:25 PM  8 years agoPost 19
Gregor99

rrElite Veteran

Western Wa

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You know --the thing I hate most bout the purple CNC head are those Damn "ring-like push rods" the flybar cage is a far superior design !!
Yes, yes, I know. But once its setup, you don't have to mess with it. Plus its lighter than a full cage.

Revolectrix Beta Team

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12-27-2008 09:25 PM  8 years agoPost 20
tryan02

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Canton, Missouri

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Greg dont quote me on this cause I got a TREX head not a copterX and the king CNC head. But I believe its the copterX underslung flybar that causes the problem. It enters through the hub directly above the mainshaft and binds the flybar.

Like I said dont quote me I just thought this was the problem.

No Really I am the club President!!!

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