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HelicopterMain Discussion › Paddle balance
12-22-2008 07:40 PM  8 years agoPost 1
rotorstart

rrApprentice

USA

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ok, I can't figure this out. Pic #1 on the left shows that bubbles are pretty much in the center. If I swing that to the other side as seen on pic #2 on the right, the bubbles are off center. I know if I adjust the paddles in pic #2 to be in center, when I swing back in the first position in pic #1, it will be off center.

The sticks are in center in both positions and things seem 90 degree to me. The swash travels equally from bottom to top.

Thanks in advance.

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12-22-2008 07:43 PM  8 years agoPost 2
brcg123

rrKey Veteran

Wagoner OK USA

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the reason is simple, the swash is tilted to one side more than the other, level your swash and paddles will stay the same as you turn it around.
Also make sure its level forward and backward, as that adds to the problem








Trex700N, Trex600N, Raptor70, RaptorTitan, GMPCrickett, Visa

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12-22-2008 08:12 PM  8 years agoPost 3
rotorstart

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USA

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Thanks for a quick reply. The swash travels equally on both sides from lowest to highest pitch. My initial suspicion was also the swash tilting to one side, but that's not the case.

Any other input?

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12-22-2008 08:22 PM  8 years agoPost 4
JetFire

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The Golden STATE

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First of all, go into your transmitter settings and make sure all your cyclic servos match identically in regards to travel ie. end points etc. so you have no interaction. Then insure you have a good setup mechanically. Swash leveled followed by washout arms and mixer arms at 90 with zero pitch on your blade grips. Adjust the linkages if needs be.


Trex700N Pro
DX8-2.4
Spartan/BL9088

-The ONLY way you fail is when you quit.-

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12-22-2008 08:26 PM  8 years agoPost 5
ErichF

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Sutton, NH

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There's more going on than the swash being not level (which it probably isn't).

First, you have to make sure your flybar control rods are dead-nuts equal in length.

Second, make sure your flybar control arms are parallel.

Third, you have to level the swashplate. I level my swashplate the hard way. Once the above items are good, I put a pitch gauge on a paddle and make swash adjustments until I can rotate the head all the way around without any pitch change in the paddle. Do this at 0° pitch on the mains, although it technically shouldn't matter.

Lastly, level your paddles by using a pitch gauge, and set them at 0° pitch.

Double check they don't change pitch as you rotate the head, and that they both have the same 0° pitch with no cyclic input.

Flight test...if your heli doesn't hover hands off after this procedure, you need to balance the bird..NOT make trim adjustments in the radio.

Erich

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12-22-2008 08:28 PM  8 years agoPost 6
rotorstart

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USA

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Hello there,

I have one sub trim of +25 to the aileron servo to keep it 90 degree and I have no other servo arms with better position, the rest is zero. The control rods are equal last I checked. The swash does travel equally top to bottom. My pitch is -11, 0, +11 at lowest, mid and highest stick.

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12-22-2008 09:07 PM  8 years agoPost 7
brcg123

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Wagoner OK USA

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First, Seeing that you use gauges on both sides, how do you make sure they are the same setting to begin with, since you want them to be the same in the end? Do you calibrate them in any way, or just trust the way they look? You should try to put them on the same side paddle, the way they mount up normally, as in, put one backwards like it is sitting on the other side. do the bubbles match? Second, how do you make certain your swash is level?








Trex700N, Trex600N, Raptor70, RaptorTitan, GMPCrickett, Visa

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12-22-2008 09:36 PM  8 years agoPost 8
rotorstart

rrApprentice

USA

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I swapped the gauges and still saw the same results.

I conclude that the swash is level by measuring the length from the frame to the swashplate at 3 points where each swash linkage is. I do this at bottom, mid and top stick positions.

So at the moment, in position #1, the bubbles are in center. In position #2, it needs a touch of "back" elevator (right) stick to keep both bubbles in the center.

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12-22-2008 10:45 PM  8 years agoPost 9
ErichF

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Sutton, NH

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It doesn't mean squat that the outer race of your swashplate is level with the tops of your frames. It doesn't even mean much that the outer race is perpendicular with the mainshaft, as most swash leveling tools work.

What matters is what the rotorhead sees, and it's telling you what it's seeing with the paddles. You can choose to ignore my advice above, and keep on chasing your paddle bubbles, though.

Erich

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12-22-2008 11:14 PM  8 years agoPost 10
Blade_Master1

rrElite Veteran

Canada

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Using a bubble level is iffy at best

is the table level ?
is the heli level ?
is the swash level?

you can use a swash leveler or try this

Just rotate the main shaft to the points they should all be the same height
I just eyeball the paddles level to the flybar cage and check their tracking in a hover

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12-22-2008 11:41 PM  8 years agoPost 11
balsabasher

rrVeteran

Central Ohio, USA

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I agree with Erich, you have more than one adjustment out of whack.
Another thing you can try is to split the difference between the two bubbles and adjust the two sides to match. Then level the heli to center the bubbles. Check to see that when you rotate the head the bubbles stay the same (centered) for each side. Good luck.

Blades; what goes around, comes around!

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12-22-2008 11:53 PM  8 years agoPost 12
Sam2b

rrElite Veteran

Seattle, WA

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rotorstart,
In my experience, using a bubble level is useless. Bubble levels indicate positions only relative to the surface the object is resting on, and if the object is perfectly parallel to the surface rested upon, and relative to gravity. Too many factors to consider, especially since there is allot in between the table and the paddles.

The solution:
Use a gap-based swash leveler. The swash is only to be measured against being perpendicular to the main shaft at all angles. The gaps will reveal anything off, even if you had the heli on a slant while on the table. Get a magnifying glass and flashlight to get a closer look if necessary. This type of leveler works fast and efficient for me. Trueblood engineering makes machined levelers, and I believe Thunder Tiger makes a universal leveler that is gap-based. The alan wrench method is the same idea, but is a last resort method.

That all said, it is very easy to eye-ball the paddle at a 12" distance while looking at it from the tip into the flybar cage. Ensure it is in line with the flybar cage. And while on the subject, use digital calipers to make sure both paddles are equidistant.

The bubble level technique problem above proves it is not an efficient way of getting anything setup well in the head. It's more than my opinion (in my opinion). Good luck.

_Sam B_
Team MSH USA * Protos Max * Xpert servos * Cyclone Blades * ProgressiveRC * VoltMagic * Ecalc

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HelicopterMain Discussion › Paddle balance
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