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HelicopterBeginners Corner › Blade 400 Collective Servo Glitch
12-11-2008 05:02 AM  8 years agoPost 1
speedsterp

rrNovice

California

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I have read a number of issues regarding the Blade 400 stock servos. Understand it is wise to replace and I will do this when I get the money. I am learning to hover at this point, so not sure it is needed.

This afternoon I was practicing and went through one battery. Changed out the battery and then went to start up again the blade pattern looked strange out of sink and the helicopter squatted down on the training balls. When shutting it down and looking at the heli I noticed the collective servo under the battery was pointing to the back of the heli when it should have been at about 90 degrees. Could the servo just loose center jump around like that? To correct I removed the screw and centered the stick and placed back on. Now I wonder if I should fly it with stock servos. Don't need to crash.

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12-11-2008 11:46 AM  8 years agoPost 2
AgentOrange

rrVeteran

Jacksonville, Florida

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my advice would be change the servos (hitec 65mg's) i had a blade and it flew like crap with the stock servos put the 65mg's in and it was like a different heli so much better.

Trying not to put them in the dirt.

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12-11-2008 02:05 PM  8 years agoPost 3
Skarn

rrVeteran

Pasadena, MD

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It's possible that the screw holding on the servo arm simply came loose.....

Skarn

It's better to burn out than to fade away...

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12-11-2008 03:22 PM  8 years agoPost 4
TaleGunner

rrElite Veteran

Deer Park WA

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With the stock servos it not a matter of IF but WHEN they will fail and cause you problems. MG 65s are around $30 ea cheeper if you look around.

CRASH! GLUE! REPEAT!
Spectra-G, Ion X-2

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12-11-2008 03:55 PM  8 years agoPost 5
speeddemon370

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Spruce Grove, Alberta, Canada

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Stock b400 servo's are definately the weakest link in the entire system. Replace asap.

Also, I thought I should mention that when I got my B400 last feb the stock dx6i was glitching (aileron gimbal) and made the servo's randomly twitch. Took forever to track down wtf the problem was too. My 2c, change the servo's before anything.

with 2 ears and 1 mouth you should listen twice as much as you talk

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12-11-2008 11:02 PM  8 years agoPost 6
speedsterp

rrNovice

California

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Thanks for the response I will go out and buy new servos tonight HS-65MG's. I have already installed a 401 gyro and 9257 tail servo. My original ESC caught on fire and I replaced with an Align 35A. If I install (3) HS-65MG's do in need to install a BEC? If yes what type would be recommended? Anything special need to be done during the install? Does it just plug in and where?

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12-11-2008 11:26 PM  8 years agoPost 7
HeliFisher

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Verdi , Nevadafornia

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You'll like the HS65s. I like mine.

I got the HBs (karbonite gears) and they are a big improvement over stock. Or go with the HS5065MG (digital), either way, it'll be a big improvement.

Good luck!

The less a man makes a clarative statement, the less likely he is to look like a fool in retrospect.

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12-12-2008 01:10 AM  8 years agoPost 8
AgentOrange

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Jacksonville, Florida

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in your book it will tell you where they plug in at. also if you are not using a bec now and your servos work and you can fly they you wont need one when you change over to the new ones.

Trying not to put them in the dirt.

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12-12-2008 01:11 AM  8 years agoPost 9
AgentOrange

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Jacksonville, Florida

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if it doesnt tell you just do one servo at a time and plug them in that way.

Trying not to put them in the dirt.

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12-12-2008 01:16 AM  8 years agoPost 10
TaleGunner

rrElite Veteran

Deer Park WA

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You don't need a bec the one on the esc works fine I have had a 401 and mg65s on mine since feb 08 hundreds of flight still stock ecs did replace the motor when it got tired.

When you install the MG 65s you will need to file the servo hole a little I used a fingernail file so its not alot,

CRASH! GLUE! REPEAT!
Spectra-G, Ion X-2

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12-12-2008 01:24 AM  8 years agoPost 11
cory hill

rrNovice

tulsa ok us

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B 400

I love my 400 but those stock servos just don't work.
Stop trying to fix them and get the JR pack.

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12-12-2008 03:00 AM  8 years agoPost 12
speedsterp

rrNovice

California

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When installing the HS-65MG the stock control arms will not work. Is everyone using the control arms that come with the Hitec Servo? If not are you using an aftermarket, such as Du-Bro? It seems the arms on the stock servo's are thicker than those supplied with the Hitech. When installing the control ball it appears you would need to drill out the hole a little. With thinner arm less material to thread into. Do you use a nut on the back?

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12-12-2008 03:18 AM  8 years agoPost 13
Chucky777

rrApprentice

Webster, Texas

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servo arms.

I just did the same upgrade on mine. And yes you can use the arms that came with the servos. you have to make the hole a little larger. Try also to use the hole that are about the same length apart as the stock arms. I also use loctite and a nut on the ball. this is a little extra security. You will also have to sequeeze these servos in they are abit longer then the stock eflite. I used a small flat blade to shoe horn them in just be carful of the wires. You will like these servos alot better. and they will last a while.

Charlie

Is it the weekend yet?

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12-12-2008 04:39 AM  8 years agoPost 14
speedsterp

rrNovice

California

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Servo Arms

Charlie,

Thank you for the input on the servo arms. Interesting on the locktight. One of the guy's at the field told me to avoid getting locktight on the plastic parts as this can deteriorate the plastic over time. Not sure if that is correct, but an FYI.

Gary

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12-12-2008 01:54 PM  8 years agoPost 15
T-Rex-Flyer

rrElite Veteran

Panama City, Fl

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As a general rule you want to keep the loctite a way from plastic. I use a drop of CA on the nut and screw for added security.

If the wings are traveling faster than the fuselage, it's probably a helicopter.

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12-12-2008 05:07 PM  8 years agoPost 16
HeliFisher

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Verdi , Nevadafornia

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I think Chucky777 meant he applied loctite to the nut, then he put it on the ball. Don't use loctite on plastic, locking nuts included.

Makes me want to go put some nuts on my ball links. HAHA. I just figured that mine were so tight, there was no way they are coming out. I didn't drill them out, I reemed the top until the threads could find some bite, and actually puhed a little of the nylon material out the back. It looks like I would only have 1 - 1.5 good threads to put a nut on.

I'll just keep it on my preflight checklist and see what happens.

The less a man makes a clarative statement, the less likely he is to look like a fool in retrospect.

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12-12-2008 07:20 PM  8 years agoPost 17
T-Rex-Flyer

rrElite Veteran

Panama City, Fl

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HeliFisher Just a couple of points,
1. it would be hard not to get the loctite on the plastic as it's squeezed out of the threads, so it best just not to use it around plastic.
2 you might want to reconsider you're decision not to use nuts to secure the ball to the servo arm. You only have about 2.5 inches of thread holding the screw in the servo arm. With the amount of stress on the screw do you really want to risk losing you're heli because you're just to lazy to put on longer screw and nut?

If the wings are traveling faster than the fuselage, it's probably a helicopter.

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12-14-2008 07:23 PM  8 years agoPost 18
Uncle Joe

rrNovice

Irwin, Pa. USA

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Replace the servos, E-fliet did not use a strong servo in a stock B400. I've replace them with HS65HB servos with rock steady performance. Also a 401 gyro and an S9257 tail servo.

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12-14-2008 07:46 PM  8 years agoPost 19
Flint325

rrApprentice

xxx.xxx

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HS65 HB's or MG's, would do you proud.

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12-14-2008 07:55 PM  8 years agoPost 20
TaleGunner

rrElite Veteran

Deer Park WA

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I too use CA on plastic and not loctite

CRASH! GLUE! REPEAT!
Spectra-G, Ion X-2

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