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HelicopterEngines Plugs Mufflers Fuel › TT .53 migrating low end needle auto self richening feature
12-14-2008 11:02 PM  8 years agoPost 41
norsman

rrKey Veteran

paradise PA

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a picture is worth a thousand words

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12-14-2008 11:15 PM  8 years agoPost 42
Dino Spadaccini

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USA

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oh ya

oh ya brother glad to help

i put up a really good one picture its the third one

RIP Roman JR
Capt USA Align Factory Team Align - Conquer Your heart
Team Futaba

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12-14-2008 11:17 PM  8 years agoPost 43
glydrjocky

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Livermore, CA - USA

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Thank you Dino,

I started this post and originally had seen some movement of the outer low needle to open or above flush. I reset everthing attempted to try it again but the engine would not start once I reset the needle flush. Had to open it a quarter turn to start it and get it to run right. This left me above flush on the low needle. Dino and I agreed that the hidden needle must have moved inward causing the need to open the outer needle and may even has caused the outer needle to move in the first place. Bear in mind my engine started fine and was very rich at the flush setting when new but now will not start at the flush setting so something changed.

I will take my carb apart measure the hidden needle, readjust and locktite as necessary!

I hope TT gets this info out to the owners so they have a way to rest the inner needle to a start position.

Thanks again Dino,

Tony

The only people who truly know where the edge lies, are those who have gone over.

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12-14-2008 11:37 PM  8 years agoPost 44
Dino Spadaccini

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USA

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yup

The 1mm gap came from TT that is the best gap and the carb I used was new never run. I hope this helps everyone and Tony your input really helped alot thanks again and keep me up to speed. Yes the third needle is moving which will cause you to richen the low, I know all of this is a pain but this helps us that the factory figure things out thanks again Dino and TT.

RIP Roman JR
Capt USA Align Factory Team Align - Conquer Your heart
Team Futaba

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12-22-2008 01:10 PM  8 years agoPost 45
Dino Spadaccini

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USA

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ok

hey just like to hear how everything is Dino

RIP Roman JR
Capt USA Align Factory Team Align - Conquer Your heart
Team Futaba

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12-26-2008 03:04 AM  8 years agoPost 46
glydrjocky

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Livermore, CA - USA

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Hey Dino,

I'm outta town for Christmas but I did stare at my Sceadu Evo 50 for a long while trying to get motivated to pull the engine, pipe and carb before I headed for Dallas TX. No Luck. Hoping to tear into it next week.

Happy Hovering Holidays,

Tony

The only people who truly know where the edge lies, are those who have gone over.

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12-31-2008 01:41 PM  8 years agoPost 47
Dino Spadaccini

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USA

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ok

Ok great enjoy your time and holidays keep me posted Dino

RIP Roman JR
Capt USA Align Factory Team Align - Conquer Your heart
Team Futaba

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01-03-2009 06:22 AM  8 years agoPost 48
glydrjocky

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Livermore, CA - USA

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dismantled carb

Hello Dino,

I removed the engine and took the carb completely apart this evening.

Before taking it apart, the first thing I did was set the idle screw flush with the housing. I opened the barrel fully and attempted to place the shank of a 1mm drill bit between the inner and outer needle. It would not fit as the gap was too small. This explains why it was lean and would not start.

I then removed the hidden inner needle from the barrel. It turned easily with some minor drag from the O-ring. I removed the idle mixture screw and slid the inner needle inside it. It took almost no pressure at all to get the two needles to grab hold of each other as the inner needle taper touched the idle screw inner bore. I have a sneaking suspition that when you close the barrel all the way the idle mix screw and the inner needle "lock" together and when you open the barrel it begins to twist one or both of the needles. I'm going to try your loctite idea but I am also going to set up my full closed travel (trim in cutoff) so that the barrel does not bottom the needles in the full closed position.

Also, if you set up the throttle servo with the barrel full closed at full down cutoff trim and then lean the idle mixture screw, the next time you close the barrel fully it will bind even harder against the inner needle, increasing the possiblity of the needles sticking together and moving.

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01-04-2009 07:15 PM  8 years agoPost 49
jaseyb

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uk

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hi guys i have the old style carb had the running lean spot in the midrange so i readjusted the hidden needle i screwed it in then undone it 2 1/4 turns which is what people on here said to do,was ok for awhile now its come back hovering is fine but put it through 5-6 rolls or flips and then its going lean will redoing the hidden needle sort this or should i get the new style carb

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01-11-2009 04:14 AM  8 years agoPost 50
glydrjocky

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Livermore, CA - USA

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two solid consistant flights

Okay Dino,

Beautiful weather in the San Francisco Bay Area made for a warm wind free day and some awesome flights on the newly loctited hidden needle in my .53

Both needles seemed to hold their settings quite well through 2 full tanks of fuel in the Sceadu. Both flights were very consistant through out the flight envelope including some brief inverted and numerous rolls and loops.

Had a bit trouble getting it running on the second tank but after switching glow igniters it lit right up. Mixture seems consistant through out the throttle range. I was throughly impressed, sporting a big grin walking back to the pits after each flight. Looking forward to flying her more soon.

I'll keep you in the loop,

Tony

The only people who truly know where the edge lies, are those who have gone over.

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01-13-2009 09:29 PM  8 years agoPost 51
Nalizan

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Coppell, TX 75019

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I just purchased a TT 53. Would you recommend doing the lock tite on the hidden needle before I even install it in my 600N or should I wait and see if I have trouble. I am not sure if this is happening to a lot or a small group of TT 53 owners. After reading this I will definetly atleast balance my metal fan before I run it.

Steven

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01-14-2009 12:12 AM  8 years agoPost 52
glydrjocky

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Livermore, CA - USA

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Its alot easier to do the loctite when the engine is out and you have full access to the carb.

I put a screw driver on the hidden needle and it turned way too easy for my liking. Only felt slight drag from the O-ring. Now that the needle is locked I am throughly happy with the engines consistancy and performance.

I used a 1mm equivilant drill bit but forget the exact # size.

Due to the design of the needles themselves I would definitly recommend dial indicating and balancing the fan and hub. Just to remove another variable from the equation.

The only people who truly know where the edge lies, are those who have gone over.

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01-14-2009 12:31 AM  8 years agoPost 53
Nalizan

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Coppell, TX 75019

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Just to clarify. You do not actually lock tite the 3rd (or hidden) needle in place. You just remove and put lock tite on it and let it dry so that it is a snugger fit when you re install it later. Is that correct ?

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01-14-2009 12:44 AM  8 years agoPost 54
JuanRodriguez

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The Villages, Florida

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I believe the idea is that the third needle does not move on its own.... Blue locktite is "non permanent" so, reading between the lines, you can move it if need be......

I think you're taking the term "loctite" too literally.....as in "permanent".....blue, or "non permanent" loctite will allow you to move the needle if need be but will prevent the needle from moving on its own....I believe that conventional "loctite" products are anaerobic in nature, meaning that they will cure with the lack of oxygen...... If you put loctite on a screw and don't screw it in place, I don't believe it will cure (properly)......

I'm sure someone will correct me if my "assumption" is not correct....

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01-14-2009 01:28 AM  8 years agoPost 55
Dino Spadaccini

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USA

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yes

we are using the blue loctite to snug up the needle thats all.

RIP Roman JR
Capt USA Align Factory Team Align - Conquer Your heart
Team Futaba

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01-14-2009 02:27 AM  8 years agoPost 56
glydrjocky

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Livermore, CA - USA

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I know that the loctite blue that I put on the needle was still tacky when I got back to it about 18 hours later. I'd venture to guess its pretty well "loc'd" as trying to turn it gently with a screw driver later resisted any effort to move it, which is exactly what I was after.

Now if I ever do need to move it again....Dino and I will start another thread called "My #_)#(%&#()&%#& needle won't budge"

At this point I hold Dino and his team in the highest regard!

Thanks again for awesome advice!

Tony

The only people who truly know where the edge lies, are those who have gone over.

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01-14-2009 06:19 AM  8 years agoPost 57
Nalizan

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Coppell, TX 75019

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Well I started to look at my carb to see about doing this mod and I found out that it is the old carb not the new one. I am glad I noticed now and not later. Do I just send it in to Ace Hobby to get a new one? Are they still replacing them?

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01-15-2009 12:30 AM  8 years agoPost 58
glydrjocky

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Livermore, CA - USA

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I belive they are still replacing them from everything I've seen here on these posts. Mine came with the new carb on it.

T

The only people who truly know where the edge lies, are those who have gone over.

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01-15-2009 01:22 AM  8 years agoPost 59
w12martin

rrVeteran

Shantou, Guangdong, China

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I just replaced mine couple of days ago from the UK distributor but Dino told me that I could do it from ACE Hobby too!

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01-16-2009 02:59 AM  8 years agoPost 60
Dino Spadaccini

rrElite Veteran

USA

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yes

Yes ace will exchange it just make sure a copy of the receipt is in the box and your contact info is in there all so ace will have to charge you shipping back to Japan, also make sure you write on the box ATT service GABE or ROCKY

RIP Roman JR
Capt USA Align Factory Team Align - Conquer Your heart
Team Futaba

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