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HelicopterHIROBOOther › Bought my First EVO 50
12-23-2008 02:20 AM  8 years agoPost 81
dkshema

rrMaster

Cedar Rapids, IA

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Why change either from stock? SOME people seem to have had trouble bending the stock spindle with 3D flight, not ALL people. In the six seasons I flew my EVO, a bent main shaft was never a worry, except after a particularly nasty crash.

-----
Dave

* Making the World Better -- One Helicopter at a time! *

Team Heliproz

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12-23-2008 07:07 PM  8 years agoPost 82
John Blaze

rrNovice

South Fla

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Well fellas, I'm now ready for my FIRST test flight. I have fine tuned my Heli with the TX.

I brought my heli to my local hobbyshop for a pre flight review and had a few minor issues. One was that I had the belt on incorrectly. I also had the screws that holds the Main blades on backwards. (locknut should be on the bottem). A few minor adjustments to the rods. Otherwise, the guy said I did a good job. I told him I had consultant who provided me with alot of information. (Thanks DAVE!)

I will post some pics of the final build as well as some pics of my flight test on Christmas Day.

I'm looking forward to fly my RC with my Father as we did when I was 8. Should be a blast and to reminisce on our first RC flight when he attempted to fly his Eagle 63 only to crash and burn!

Thanks for all the GREAT advice!

Happy Holidays!
JB

Evo 50 SWM

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12-23-2008 07:12 PM  8 years agoPost 83
dkshema

rrMaster

Cedar Rapids, IA

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Good luck, happy to be of assistance. Keep the skids down and the whirly side up, at least until you get the hang of things!

Merry Christmas, Happy New Year.

-----
Dave

* Making the World Better -- One Helicopter at a time! *

Team Heliproz

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12-26-2008 03:01 AM  8 years agoPost 84
John Blaze

rrNovice

South Fla

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Merry Christmas! Hope all had a nice holiday.

Well as you know I wanted to lift off today and was UNSUCCESFUL. I'm sure you probably thought that would be the next topic by me.

Well good thing is I didn't CRASH! Bad thing is that I couldn't lift off. Got the engine prepped and started fine. Adjusted the idle where I wanted it. But when I slowly throttled up the engine the shaft spun but with no blade movement. I was stunted for a bit trying to think what was going wrong. I thought I didn't tighten the drive nut properly but I was sure I did that correctly and lock tighten it.

I decided to remove the engine to make sure the lock nut was fixed properly and it was. My father mentioned it was probably the centrifugal clutch and I took a look at it and I saw that only the upper inner part of the clutch bell was making contact or at least I think it was because only have of the inner lining (whatever that rubbery thing is in there) seemed to make contact because the upper half was marked black as it was making contact with the lower part of the clutch bell assembly. The lower part looked like it wasn't making contact at all it was half and half. I'll try post a pic of this when I break it down again.

I don't know if this is the problem but it’s the only conclusion I can come up with. What do you think????

Other than that everything else was fine but I had the whole neighborhood looking forward to see me fly this heli. It was a bummer. Oh well, I guess back to the drawing boards again.

Evo 50 SWM

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12-26-2008 06:01 AM  8 years agoPost 85
dkshema

rrMaster

Cedar Rapids, IA

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Three things come to mind.

1. You started the motor backwards, in the wrong direction. Your starter must turn the motor counter clockwise, looking down on the hex coupling from above the heli. If the motor runs backwards, the one-way autorotation clutch does not engage the main rotor shaft, and the head doesn't turn.

2. You started the motor the correct direction, but the idle is rich, and the idle speed is too slow. Under those circumstances, the OS 50 SX-H AND OS 50 SX-Hyper both have a nasty tendency to reverse their direction with no warning when sitting at idle. The solution is to lean the low-speed needle a bit, and to raise the idle speed a bit. When the 50 hiccups and reverses direction, it will seem to run just fine as you increase the throttle, but since it's going the wrong direction, the one-way autorotation clutch doesn't engage the MR shaft, and the blades won't turn.

3. The one-way autorotation clutch is installed upside down in the gear housing. If installed upside down, it will not engage the shaft to drive it, if the motor is turning the correct direction (counter clockwise, looking down on the end of the crankshaft from above).

-----
Dave

* Making the World Better -- One Helicopter at a time! *

Team Heliproz

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12-26-2008 02:14 PM  8 years agoPost 86
John Blaze

rrNovice

South Fla

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You know what since you mention that the engine can throw itself into reverse, I think I remember a spit second pause but the engine continued to run.

I'll also check to make sure I'm cranking the engine in the correct direction.

Thanks for that info. I'll follow up later with results.

Evo 50 SWM

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12-26-2008 03:30 PM  8 years agoPost 87
dkshema

rrMaster

Cedar Rapids, IA

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While you're at it, double check to make sure you have the one-way clutch installed correctly.

-----
Dave

* Making the World Better -- One Helicopter at a time! *

Team Heliproz

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12-26-2008 04:48 PM  8 years agoPost 88
Eury

rrProfessor

Dover NH

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Dave is right on with his advice. Most likely your auto clutch is correct, IIRC, they come preassembled, and I've yet to come across one form the factory that was wrong. Those engines run great, forwards or backwards, the only real indication you have is that the blades won't turn.

Nick Crego

Citizen #0168

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12-26-2008 05:07 PM  8 years agoPost 89
John Blaze

rrNovice

South Fla

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Yeah...I think I may have the idle way too low. I'll re-adjust the idle trim, double check that the engine is rotating in the correct direction. (Clockwise right?) and take look at the AR clutch again.

Thanks fellas.

Evo 50 SWM

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12-26-2008 05:27 PM  8 years agoPost 90
dkshema

rrMaster

Cedar Rapids, IA

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Motor runs COUNTER CLOCKWISE, looking down on the heli from above.

-----
Dave

* Making the World Better -- One Helicopter at a time! *

Team Heliproz

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12-26-2008 05:35 PM  8 years agoPost 91
John Blaze

rrNovice

South Fla

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Got it. Thanks

Evo 50 SWM

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12-26-2008 05:52 PM  8 years agoPost 92
dkshema

rrMaster

Cedar Rapids, IA

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Idle SPEED is set using the TRIM tab on your transmitter...

If your carb linkage is set properly, at FULL throttle, the carb barrel will be wide open and the servo will not be stalled. At FULL LOW throttle, and FULL LOW TRIM, the carb barrel will be fully closed, and the servo will not be stalled.

At FULL LOW THROTTLE, and MID TRIM setting, the motor should idle reliably, and with the clutch disengaged.

At FULL LOW THROTTLE and FULL TRIM, the motor should increase its speed to the point where the clutch is engaged and the rotors start to turn.

If you set it up in this manner, you will be able to kill the motor from the TX by going to low throttle and low trim. You will be able to start and transport the heli at low throttle and mid trim, and you will be able to get the blades turning by going to low throttle and high trim.

Do NOT use the low speed needle to set the idle speed, use the trim tab on the TX.

The low speed needle is set by noticing how the motor transitions from Idle up to the point where the heli is about to lift off.

If, as you increase throttle, the motor coughs, spits, and seems to be full of fuel, you need to turn the low speed setting clockwise, to lean it out just a hair.

If, on the other hand, as you increase throttle from idle up to lift off, the motor just begins to scream, or just suddenly quits, you need to turn the low speed needle counter clockwise, to richen the low speed setting up a bit.

Your low speed needle setting is close to being correct when you can advance the throttle from idle to the near-lift-off point with a nice, smooth, steady transition with no blubbering or hesitation.

You can also check the low speed needle setting by starting the motor, letting it run for about 30 seconds or so at idle, then pinching off the fuel line to the carb with your fingers. If the motor just stops, your idle is too lean. Sitting at idle, with the fuel line pinched off, the motor should continue to run for about 3 to 5 seconds, then gradually begin to speed up as it runs out of fuel. If it goes much longer than 5 seconds, the idle is too rich.

When you get the low speed setting correct, lift off, get some altitude and check the full throttle response. With a new motor, start with the high speed needle on the rich side. You'll see a lack of power, and the motor will use a lot of fuel. Gradually lean out the high speed needle a couple of clicks at-a-time until it starts producing some good power, and that at hover, it maintains a steady rpm. If you're a bit rich, you should be able to hear the motor note changing from a rich 4-cycle to a good 2-cycle mode of operation. The tail will be kicking a bit (as if your gyro isn't doing its job, because the power to the drive train is not steady). As your motor gets more time on it, gradually lean out the top end, again a couple of clicks at a time.

Many people check the top-end setting by flying the heli at full throttle for a minute or two, then landing, and immediately putting their finger in the center of the motor's back plate. If you can hold your finger on the back plate for maybe 3 to 5 seconds before it gets too hot...you're fine. If you roast your finger immediately, the top-end is too lean. If the back plate is cool and you can hold your finger all day long on it, the top end is too rich.

Note that the LOW speed needle setting is NOT a traditional needle valve, it is driven by a CAM. The factory setting is with the slot in the adjusting screw parallel with a line running down the center line of the carburetor-throat/venturi.

The maximum adjustment amount of this CAM is + or - 90 degrees (a quarter turn) from the factory setting. Anything beyond a quarter turn either way is counter productive.

With BOTH needles, CLOCKWISE LEANS out the mixture, COUNTER CLOCKWISE makes the mixture go rich.

-----
Dave

* Making the World Better -- One Helicopter at a time! *

Team Heliproz

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12-26-2008 06:17 PM  8 years agoPost 93
John Blaze

rrNovice

South Fla

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Great info... I will follow that to the T. I initially didn't mess with the low speed needle since the manufacture specified its preset at the factory. Therefore, I didn't make any adjustments there. I opened the High speed needle to two full turns from the closed postion as instructed in the manual.

I did notice alot of oily fuel coming out of the pipe and some out of the carb. I'm using the pink 30% fuel mix. No smoke visualized if so very very minimal. Maybe that has something to do with it.

Evo 50 SWM

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12-26-2008 07:33 PM  8 years agoPost 94
Eury

rrProfessor

Dover NH

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Generally you'll get a good amount of smoke, but there are some fuels that are low smoke as well, so it depends on what you have (and tuning of course). It would help you a lot if you got together with an experienced flier to get help with the inital starting and tuning. You can certainly go on your own (I did) but it'll be a lot easier and faster with help from a local.

Nick Crego

Citizen #0168

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12-27-2008 09:02 PM  8 years agoPost 95
dkshema

rrMaster

Cedar Rapids, IA

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Smoke is not always a reliable indicator as the amount produced is not only affected by the fuel you're using, but also by the temperature and humidity.

"Preset to factory settings" is just that. It's a setting that will get the motor to run, but generally is quite rich. Final tuning is always subject to the fuel you're using, the heli you are flying, the muffler system you have, and the local weather conditions.

Keep in mind that 30% fuel needs to run a few clicks richer than 15%. AS you go UP in nitro percentage, you need to richen the needles a bit. As you go down in nitro, you need to lean them a bit. I don't know why you're burning 30% in your EVO, especially if you are new to the game. I've flown 15% nitro in everything for YEARS and never had a problem. My EVO with an OS 50 SX-H, an MP2-LRQ muffler, and 15% fuel was quite happy in the air till the day it died.

Run 15%, at least while you're on the learning curve, you'll be able to afford to burn more fuel for the same amount of flying.

-----
Dave

* Making the World Better -- One Helicopter at a time! *

Team Heliproz

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12-29-2008 04:18 AM  8 years agoPost 96
John Blaze

rrNovice

South Fla

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Today I was invited to join some new friends today that fly on Sundays nearby. They all fly T-Rex's and we ruled out it WASN'T my motor running in the wrong direction. They suggested it was the one way bearing that was installed incorrectly because the the big gear was turning counter clockwise but the bottom one remained still.

Got home and disassembled the two gears and removed the bearing and flipped it and re-installed and now when I rotate the top gear counter clockwise both gears now turn.

As I was looking back through the manual for main gear assembly, it's very misleading on how the bearing should be placed. Its says to "point the side with the punch mark upwards". What the heck is a punch mark? I thought it was the indentation of the bearing pointing up. Apparently I was wrong!

Anyway, Second attempt to fly with no success. However, I did adjust my TX throttle trims and I did that pinch test and the time the motor cut out was about 4-5 seconds.

Going to try another attempt tomorrow with one the guys and see if the bearing I adjusted works. Hopefully I'll be able to lift off.

Check back tomorrow.

Thanks for all the advice!
JB

Oh by the way...out of topic...saw The Curious Life of Benjamin Button with the wife.... Two words....GREAT MOVIE! Really makes you wonder!

Evo 50 SWM

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12-29-2008 05:02 AM  8 years agoPost 97
dkshema

rrMaster

Cedar Rapids, IA

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John -- no need to guess if you have the one-way installed correctly. There is a simple, quick, definitive test you can do in your shop.

Your EVO has two large gears on the MR shaft. The lower one drives the tail rotor through the countershaft and small gear that's located behind the main rotor shaft. You can ignore this bit of your heli.

The Larger, top gear, drives the main rotor shaft through the one-way clutch that is installed in its hub. This gear is also driven by the motor pinion.

Simply grab the TOP gear, the bigger one, and try to turn it the same direction that the head needs to turn (CLOCKWISE, looking down from above). If the one-way clutch is installed correctly, when you try to turn that top gear CW (viewed from above), the shaft and head should turn with it, and the clutch will be engaged. If the gear free-wheels, your one-way is upside down (or dead).

If you take that top gear and try to turn it COUNTER CLOCKWISE (again, viewed from above), the gear must simply free-wheel, and nothing will turn with it. If it doesn't free-wheel, your one-way is upside down.

-----
Dave

* Making the World Better -- One Helicopter at a time! *

Team Heliproz

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12-29-2008 06:01 PM  8 years agoPost 98
nikpepa

rrNovice

patras greece

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hello everyone.i have a sceadu evo 50 ccpm.do you know anywhere any other landing skids for the evo??i want to know if there are any lower skids and where to buy them!

thanks

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12-29-2008 07:22 PM  8 years agoPost 99
Eury

rrProfessor

Dover NH

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Sure, landing gear are fairly universal, you just need to drill new holes through them. I've used the Vibe 50, T-rex 600, and Freya low profile on mine. They all work and look about the same, the T-rex are the least expensive. Same say that they flexiness of the stock gear (which the low profile replacements do not have) saves the frames in case of a crash. I haven't found that to be the case, and haven't had a problem with the frames breaking in a crash no matter what landing gear I have used.

Nick Crego

Citizen #0168

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12-29-2008 08:11 PM  8 years agoPost 100
John Blaze

rrNovice

South Fla

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I think he wants the low profile wider stance skids. I've heard some people using the freya skids in place of the sceadu.

Evo 50 SWM

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