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HelicopterMain Discussion › Clear-Coating fiberglass fuse
07-13-2008 02:38 AM  9 years agoPost 1
MAJIC

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Kingman, Arizona USA

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I was wondering if anyone had any thoughts on what type of clearcoat to use on my scale helis under construction. They both will be high gloss black with gold trim. The first is an Align MD500 and the larger is the Thunder Tiger Twin-Star. I've been told that Krylon primer and paint works well but I would need an automotive clearcoat. This does create some spraying problems. I would appreciate any thoughts.
Thanks

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07-13-2008 03:17 AM  9 years agoPost 2
twitch

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Las Vegas

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If you want a profesional looking job then dont waist your time with spray can paint. You will just have to re-prep it and re-paint it over again the rite way. The problem with painting is you need the hole set up. Air compressor, filter,water trap, decent base and clear gun, and proper storage (combustable). A good cheap automotive paint and clear is "Matrix". I have used it for years and is realy good. I would recomend the "euro-clear" by Matrix for the clear coat. Its like glass. A good idea is to go to a local Auto Body shop that does custom work and get a quote. Its not as easy as most people think and there are a ton of factors involved.

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07-13-2008 03:23 AM  9 years agoPost 3
gmcullan

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Southbridge, MA

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Don't laugh until you try it, but I airbrush Future clear acrylic floor coating on my helis and slot cars. Check out my canopy photos in the electric sections under the T-Rex and Thunder Tiger sections. You can also catch them in my gallery.

I've not had this coating lift any paints or decals. It dries to a hard, durable, high-gloss coating.

I airbrush it straight from the bottle, using a metal-bodied Aztec dual-action airbrush, gray nozzle, 20 psi coming out of the compressor. I've attached photos of my Mini-Titan canopy as an example.

Gerry Cullan,
Gaui 200, 255; T-Rex 250, 450 SE & SA, Mini-Titan, Blade 450

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07-13-2008 03:47 AM  9 years agoPost 4
Heli 770

rrProfessor

USA.

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gmcullan
Hey!, That looks good!!!

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07-13-2008 03:53 AM  9 years agoPost 5
gmcullan

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Southbridge, MA

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Here's a little more detail on the canopy paint job.

I used the natural creases on the canopy as guides for the color masking. The white areas are the canopy as received, the red is Testors Model Master Guards Red, and the yellow is Testors Model Master Insignia Yellow. Both paints were reduced from the bottle about 50/50 with Testors Model Master airbrushing reducer. The end paint approximated the viscosity of milk. The paint was airbrushed using an Aztec metal-bodied dual action airbrush. The pressure regulator was set to 20 psi. I used the gray, general purpose nozzle/needle set.

The vinyl graphics are the ones supplied with the Mini-Titan kit. The clear-coat is Future acrylic floor coating. This was also airbrushed, coming straight from the bottle with no reduction required. It was a four-day process to bring the canopy to completion.

Gerry Cullan,
Gaui 200, 255; T-Rex 250, 450 SE & SA, Mini-Titan, Blade 450

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07-13-2008 04:00 AM  9 years agoPost 6
Heli 770

rrProfessor

USA.

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gmcullan
Thanks for the info.

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07-13-2008 02:01 PM  9 years agoPost 7
JuanRodriguez

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The Villages, Florida

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gmcullan,

The canopy looks great !

I use the two part automotive clear for my jobs but as it has been stated, you need the proper equipment AND MOST IMPORTANT, the proper respirator to shoot that stuff..... I have a positive pressure mask which is the preferred method.....

Regarding the Futura product, have you tested it for durability against nitro ??

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07-13-2008 05:58 PM  9 years agoPost 8
MAJIC

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Kingman, Arizona USA

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Thanks for the great info. I do have a compressor and do a lot of fine air brushing but this big Ecureuil is in another league.
Those canopies are awesome!

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07-13-2008 06:15 PM  9 years agoPost 9
Magic Hook

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Naples, Florida USA

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I have used auto paint, PPG on planks with a lot of sucess. I have just started to prepair a heli canopy and plan to use that system.

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07-13-2008 06:18 PM  9 years agoPost 10
Dave M

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Mi.

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I used the Rust-oleum clear out of a spray bomb.... just let it dry for about 2 weeks..so far no problem with the nitro attacking it.

It's OK....It's not your fault !!!

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07-13-2008 08:40 PM  9 years agoPost 11
gmcullan

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Southbridge, MA

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By the way, a thought about the differences between the Future floor coating versus an automotive clear. While the future gives a nice protective gloss to your paint and graphics, it is not suitable for wet-sanding to a completely smooth surface. If you want to completely eliminate the edge of your vinyl or water-slide decal graphics, Future is not the product to use. I use a Martin Seymour catalyzed clear when I'm going for the totally smooth, wet look.

A previous poster mentioned respiratory protection. I use positive pressure mask drawing from an outside airsource when using catalyzed paints an appropriate charcole/filter respirator for uncatalyzed laquers and enamals. I even use a mask when doing water-borne paints.

Gerry Cullan,
Gaui 200, 255; T-Rex 250, 450 SE & SA, Mini-Titan, Blade 450

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07-13-2008 09:04 PM  9 years agoPost 12
MAJIC

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Kingman, Arizona USA

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gmcullan
Why do you use bottled Model Masters paint and then thin it instead of just using the spray cans unless it's a color issue? Also, how long does the Future floor coating take to dry?

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07-13-2008 09:32 PM  9 years agoPost 13
JuanRodriguez

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The Villages, Florida

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Gerry,

So......is Future "fuel proof" against nitro fuels ???

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07-13-2008 09:56 PM  9 years agoPost 14
gmcullan

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Southbridge, MA

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I've not used the Future in other than electric powered applications. It might bear testing against nitro fuels. Easy enough to do. Apply some to a test surface, allow it to dry, dribble some fuel on it, and see if it reacts.

As for the drying question, depending upon temperature and humidity, 1 to 2 hours, although I normally give it 24 hours. I try to use the 24 hour rule for all solvent based, non-catalyzed paints.

An airbrush gives much better control over the paint application process. Fades and blends are easily and more accurately accomplished. I should take some photos of some of the airbrushing I've done on slot car and R/C car bodies. That will give you and idea of why I airbrush as much as possible.

Gerry Cullan,
Gaui 200, 255; T-Rex 250, 450 SE & SA, Mini-Titan, Blade 450

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07-13-2008 11:07 PM  9 years agoPost 15
AngGrafx

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Harvard, IL

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Future or any other acrylic one-stage clearcoat is fine for electric models. Nitro will eat through it - nitro will eat through automotive clearcoat if left on there long enough. For a nitro bird - a 2 part automotive clear is the only way to go.

Angelo

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07-14-2008 01:24 AM  9 years agoPost 16
JuanRodriguez

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The Villages, Florida

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Future or any other acrylic one-stage clearcoat is fine for electric models. Nitro will eat through it - nitro will eat through automotive clearcoat if left on there long enough. For a nitro bird - a 2 part automotive clear is the only way to go
I had a feeling that was the case but wasn't sure.....that's why I asked.....

Below is a "clear" I just did on my Extra 300 on the canopy and cowl using Omni, 2 part Automotive clear shot with my HVLP gun at about 30 psi....

The base colors for the cowl and canopy were custom blended Dupont Chromabase to match the UltraKote covering material.....the color match was "dead on" !!!! Not cheap but worth the effort !!!

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07-14-2008 01:53 AM  9 years agoPost 17
gmcullan

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Southbridge, MA

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Looks nice. Is that a Saito 4-stroke in the cowl?

Gerry Cullan,
Gaui 200, 255; T-Rex 250, 450 SE & SA, Mini-Titan, Blade 450

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07-14-2008 01:51 PM  9 years agoPost 18
JuanRodriguez

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The Villages, Florida

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Looks nice. Is that a Saito 4-stroke in the cowl?
Thanx ! Yes.....the 100. Rocker covers are in place now after installing the cowl....Should fly the plane nicely.....

I was going to test fly it on yesterday but it rained most of the day until late afternoon......... I ran out of steam by then and watched golf the rest of the day !!

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