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HelicopterMain Discussion › rusty crankshaft
07-11-2008 12:51 AM  9 years agoPost 1
jjvwg

rrApprentice

Vail/Boulder, CO

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I recently found out that my rear bearing had rusted on my hyper 50 and I am replacing those tomorrow when i get them. I just took my motor apart and noticed some rust on the crankshaft as well. Is it alright to clean in up with some emery paper (400 grit is what i have) to get rid of the rust? Most came off by wiping it with a paper towel, but I'd like to clean it up a bit.

Jeff

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07-11-2008 01:55 AM  9 years agoPost 2
crofty

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Phoenix, AZ - USA

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I had the same problem when I did my bearings. I did clean it off with 1000 grit and a little light oil. All is well but it shouldn't happen in the first place. My bearing was very rusty.

I am curious, what is your after flight procedure. I always used to run the engine to clear the last bit of fuel from the carb. I thought this was the best way. Now I'm not so sure after seeing the inside of my motor. (Which I use every week.) I've stopped doing that and would be interested to hear what you have been doing to get the same symptoms.

I have nerves of steel but thumbs of jelly!

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07-11-2008 07:29 AM  9 years agoPost 3
jjvwg

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Vail/Boulder, CO

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I came from rc nitro cars before I jumped into the world of helis. I used after run oil then, but now I use cool power and saw that after run oil is not needed and shouldn't be used with it. I always end each flight by pinching the fuel line, then empyting the rest of the tank. I only started flying last summer so this past winter was my first winter not flying, im pretty sure the bearing rusted then. Haven't flown too much this year, been really busy with school so my flying is pretty sporadic. Now that I started flying a lot again for the summer, I finally find out the bearing was shot after the engine wasn't running right

Needless to say, I will now be ending every flight same as before, using the pinch method, but will go back and attempt to start the engine one last time after the tanks have been emptied to get anything else out. I am also going to start using after run oil when I know that I will not be flying for a long amount of time and giving the engine a good clean up before I end for the winter season.

anybody else have any input as to keep this from happening again.

Jeff

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07-11-2008 10:48 AM  9 years agoPost 4
Peefor

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Norfolk UK

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The best material to clean the crankshaft is a fine scotchbrite pad, (not sure of the US term). Regular use seems to be the only way of avoiding the rust problem. With the usual heli setup after-run oil down the carb is difficult.

You could remove the plug to insert some oil, but using the motor regularly should keep the problem minimal.

Pete

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07-11-2008 11:08 AM  9 years agoPost 5
shawmcky

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Isle of Wight,United​Kingdom

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Rusty Crankshaft

Heli engines are awkward to flush in the airframe.Nitro fuel is corrosive so just running the engine out of fuel wont get rid of all the residue.The exhaust can collect a lot of oil that lays in the bottom so if you move your heli around to work on it it will end up back in the engine.If you are laying up the engine it is probably best to remove the exhaust.take off the crankcase end plate and flush with a carb cleaner spray,then spray an inhibitor into the engine,such as WD40.I have used this method and it keeps the corrosion at bay.If you engine is out you can soak the engine in a small container of diesel for a day ,this will remove corrosion and is a great inhibitor,but flush well after use.

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07-11-2008 04:23 PM  9 years agoPost 6
jschenck

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La Vista, NE.

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Something I have been doing more recently: Pull the fuel line off and run the engine at idle until it stops kicking, run it 4-5 seconds with the glow lighter on after that - then run the engine with the starter for 4-5 seconds at wide-open throttle. This should clear most of the bad air and fuel out of the engine. I even hold my finger over the muffler exit to force air through the fuel tank(s) to get the exhaust fumes out of the tanks. My experience has been there is still LOTS of oil in the engine. Now I shut the throttle to idle turn off all the radio gear then manually move the throttle to completely shut the carb off. Stuff something into the exhaust pipe and if you are really thing about this put the starter shaft on and turn the engine over by hand to set the piston at the top dead center to close off the exhaust port.

Sounds like a big hassle but it take just a few minutes.

the whole point here is to remove all fuel, nitric acid and close off the engine from getting and moisture into it. Also helps to store it in a place that does not have temperature fluctuations if you can. Say the basement.

As far as the surface rust on the crank I'd just polish it like previously mentioned with scotch brite or some such, oil it and put it back in with fresh bearings. I get good service from the $7 set of bearings.

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