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07-09-2008 03:00 AM  9 years agoPost 1
Hot Rod Heli

rrNovice

Chambersburg Pa

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I have a caliber 30 . In normal mode some but mostly in idle up blades go into woffing try to throttle out of it dont work . What can cause the woffing . any hints

Terry / Raptor 30/50 Hawk 30 Kyosho 30 MX 400

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07-09-2008 03:45 AM  9 years agoPost 2
tommytt1

rrVeteran

Mercerville, NJ, USA

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Check for worn ball links.

I made a mistake once, but I was wrong?

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07-09-2008 01:05 PM  9 years agoPost 3
Steff Giguere

rrProfessor

St-Eustache, Quebec,​Canada

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Are your blades tracking 100% on?

Team Synergy, Rail blades, Team Scorpion, V-Team

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07-09-2008 02:29 PM  9 years agoPost 4
Dwight

rrApprentice

West Chicago, IL

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When you say woofing do you mean a tracking problem? If it is a tracking problem it is very likely you have bad thrust bearings. If you are getting a woofing at high speed it is likely the blades have an aft cg therefore becoming unstable. How long has this been occuring?

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07-10-2008 02:39 AM  9 years agoPost 5
baby uh1

rrVeteran

St. James, Mo.

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Hello,

That might be the servo plate flexing. The Calibers have a problem with that so you can either reinforce it or you can buy the new one for the Caliber 4. It isn't expensive and has reinforcement built in.

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07-10-2008 12:34 PM  9 years agoPost 6
Hot Rod Heli

rrNovice

Chambersburg Pa

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I did have a tracking issue but the servo tray moving sounds like the problem
I think . When flexing the blades to work the swash up and down the tray moves alot . Also blades could be part of it also. In forward flight it has a kinda wobble not side ways but fore and aft .Still checking things out Thanks for all the input . Terry

Terry / Raptor 30/50 Hawk 30 Kyosho 30 MX 400

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07-10-2008 01:20 PM  9 years agoPost 7
dkshema

rrMaster

Cedar Rapids, IA

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Woofing on a Caliber 30 is not common, but on occasion has been reported. The most likely cause is the split plastic collar just below the main rotor hub that has two slots in it that guide the washout base drive pins as the washout base slides up and down the main rotor shaft. Look at page 31 of the Caliber manual, located about the center of the page for part number CA3040, then find the part that is referenced by the number 872 in a circle. That would be the radius block, and that would be most likely your problem.

The two slots in the part identified by callout number 872 are probably a bit on the wide side allowing the two pins to move back and forth. The excess play in these two slots causes the entire collective pitch system to become soft and spongy.

I had one of three Caliber 30's that woofed horribly out of the box. While trying to track down the problem I looked at all the usual suspects, including the flex in the servo tray. A stiffener on the tray failed to help, the pushrods were fine, the bellcranks were fine, I finally ended up swapping entire rotor heads between the new Caliber 30 and an older Caliber 30. I expected the problem to follow the head when I swapped them. To my surprise, the problem stayed with the airframe.

I grabbed a main rotor blade and began to twist it in its grips. When I did, I noticed that as I did so, the washout base rotated a bit around the main shaft and the collective was very soft. If I held the washout base and kept it from moving, the collective mechanism became very stiff and solid.

That was when I noticed that on my two older Caliber 30s that never woofed, that the pins fit the slots in the radius block with little or no slop. The new woofing Caliber, on the other hand, allowed the washout base to move.

I replaced the radius block with a different one, one that had little or no slop for the pins to slide in. That Caliber which nearly always woofed prior to changing out the radius block, has never woofed since.

I believe that due to tolerances in the various molds used to make this part that the hole for the main rotor shaft sometimes ends up being a bit on the small side. When you put the two halves around the shaft and tighten the two bolts down to fix the radius block to the shaft, the slots tend to stretch and widen. I found on my defective block that as I loosened the bolts, the slop disappeared.

Chris at RC Heliworks sells a very nice CNC aluminum radius block to replace this two-part plastic piece, or you can buy another new CA3040 and see if it fits any better. Some have even used thin shim stock glued into the slots to make the slots fit the pins a little better.

-----

I just read one of your later posts where you say
When flexing the blades to work the swash up and down the tray moves a lot
That's an indication that you have too much slop in the radius block slots.

A flexing tray won't cause woofing, it might cause some control interaction. Woofing is coming from the collective system being too soft. Loose ball links won't do it either.

If you're worried about the servo tray flexing build a stiffener like this:

or replace the servo tray with part number CA3106 from the Caliber 4 as shown below.

-----
Dave

* Making the World Better -- One Helicopter at a time! *

Team Heliproz

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07-10-2008 10:13 PM  9 years agoPost 8
baby uh1

rrVeteran

St. James, Mo.

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There is another thread on this forum that adresses the same issue and it was determined that the servo plate was the problem with that heli.
Good to know about the issue with the washout base also. I am rebuilding a Cal 30 right now and am glad to find out about these problems before I get it done and try to fly it.
Sounds like the alloy one is the way to go.

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07-11-2008 02:47 AM  9 years agoPost 9
Hot Rod Heli

rrNovice

Chambersburg Pa

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Dave you have somthing there I did see the washout base move like you said . I have made a support for the tray.And I'll check out the part in question . Thanks Terry

Terry / Raptor 30/50 Hawk 30 Kyosho 30 MX 400

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07-11-2008 03:01 AM  9 years agoPost 10
dkshema

rrMaster

Cedar Rapids, IA

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A new radius block -- the part I described earlier, made a non-flyable Caliber 30 into a nice flying heli that has never woofed since.

Get the collective so it's not soft or spongy. That will fix the woofing problem.

-----
Dave

* Making the World Better -- One Helicopter at a time! *

Team Heliproz

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07-15-2008 12:45 PM  9 years agoPost 11
helimatt

rrElite Veteran

Lafayette, IN

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My experience with my Caliber 30 (bought used) is that servo tray stiffeners solved woofing.

I "modded" the radius block to reduce slop but it didn't make a difference in my case. I installed new links, no slop there, but again no change, still woofing, particulary on warmer days. Finally I used some aluminum tubing (Trex 450 skid material) to fabricate diagonal braces for the servo tray- and after that the bird flies well no tracking problems at all.

That is my experience, and perhaps the radius block was still contributing, but without the stiffeners, I couldn't resolve the woofing. Dave's expertise recognized and not disputed directly, just sharing what worked for me.

Its been pointed out that the Caliber 4 tray is much better design, direct fit for the Caliber 30, and not expensive. Worth the changeover.

Never, ever, ever, ever give up.

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07-20-2008 12:35 PM  9 years agoPost 12
roys55

rrApprentice

USA

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Replace that radius block with a cnc unit, glue both tail rotor sprockets to their shafts and keep the one-way lubed with atf, you'll have a great helicopter.

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07-24-2008 02:06 AM  9 years agoPost 13
Hot Rod Heli

rrNovice

Chambersburg Pa

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Hey Guys
I finally got time to work on the cal 30 put a tray stiffner on it and recheck tracking . so far so good . Haven't 3 deeeed it yet will let you know just put a new os 37 on it nice engine so far . TT 39 just dont work well for me . More info soon . Later Terry .

Terry / Raptor 30/50 Hawk 30 Kyosho 30 MX 400

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08-05-2008 02:27 AM  9 years agoPost 14
Hot Rod Heli

rrNovice

Chambersburg Pa

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Hey
I got to the field tonight with the caliber 30. Its fixed
3d and all no problem . Smoooooth Thanks for all the words
of wisdom . Later till the next rebuild . Terry

Terry / Raptor 30/50 Hawk 30 Kyosho 30 MX 400

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09-01-2008 04:22 AM  9 years agoPost 15
baby uh1

rrVeteran

St. James, Mo.

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Hello,
OK I finnally got my Cal 30 flying. I reinforced the servo tray and checked everything for slop so first flight was great, smooth and solid! Though I had a great heli. Then the second flight started out great but after a few minutes of flight the blades started woofing and shaking. Shook so hard that it shook the throttle link off and I had to wait for the heli to run out of fuel so that I could check it.
Checked for play and loose parts but nothing. The only difference between the first flight and the second was that I added some braces like the earlier picture shows.
Any ideas?
Huey

Anything is possible if you don't know what you are talking about!

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09-01-2008 06:33 AM  9 years agoPost 16
dkshema

rrMaster

Cedar Rapids, IA

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Are you sure it was blade woofing -- the blades going out of track?

The shaking sounds as if you have the main rotor RPM way too low. You need to get your throttle and pitch curves such that the head is turning greater than 1800 RPM, or the heli will wobble and shake something fierce, especially when you get into forward flight.

If it truly is the blades going out of track, you most likely have problems with the radius block -- that two piece plastic part just below the main rotor hub, which has the two slots in it for the washout guide pins to ride in. If those slots are too wide, the washout base can rotate slightly around the main rotor shaft, and this makes the collective mechanism very spongy and springy. A new radius block (and especially the CNC aluminum version from Chris at RC Heliworks is what is in order to fix the problem if it truly is woofing.

-----
Dave

* Making the World Better -- One Helicopter at a time! *

Team Heliproz

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09-01-2008 01:45 PM  9 years agoPost 17
baby uh1

rrVeteran

St. James, Mo.

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I could see the blades go out of track and I have a very small amount of play in the radius block. I don't know what my headspeed is but it seems quite fast, almost like my Trex!
I'm going to order the alloy block and try that.

Thanks

Anything is possible if you don't know what you are talking about!

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09-02-2008 03:34 AM  9 years agoPost 18
baby uh1

rrVeteran

St. James, Mo.

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OK I have another question about the radius block. How do you know when it is clocked correctly on the main shaft? I know that if it isn't correct then the phasing will be off. Is this something that takes trial and error to figure out?
I currently have the washout screws aligned with the flybar.

Anything is possible if you don't know what you are talking about!

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09-02-2008 01:50 PM  9 years agoPost 19
Dwight

rrApprentice

West Chicago, IL

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Line up the flybar with the boom and then rotate the radius block until the inner and outer balls of the swashplate line up. This will give you exactly 90 degree phasing.

Dwight

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09-02-2008 06:44 PM  9 years agoPost 20
dkshema

rrMaster

Cedar Rapids, IA

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Fine tune phasing:

Turn rotor shaft until main rotors are fore and aft, and flybar is perpendicular to the side frames. Hold flybar still so it won't flop around as you move the sticks.

Move the AILERON stick side to side, the flybar paddles should be still, not wanting to tilt fore and aft. Rotate radius block to achieve this.

Or turn blades so they are sticking out to each side, and flybar is lined up with tail boom. Hold the flybar still so it doesn't flop around as you move the sticks. Move the ELEVATOR stick. The paddles should not tilt, they should remain motionless. Rotate radius block till that happens.

-----
Dave

* Making the World Better -- One Helicopter at a time! *

Team Heliproz

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