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HelicopterPainting › Help with paint and aftermarket bodies
07-08-2008 05:01 AM  9 years agoPost 21
AngGrafx

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Harvard, IL

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I guess that's why I keep seeing guys in bunny suits when they spray clear
Its Easter all the time at my place...

Here's a couple of links about isocyanates and half-face respirators:

http://www.chess-safety.com/proxysi...ates_4_2006.pdf

http://www.osha.gov/SLTC/isocyanates/mdi/mdi.html

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07-08-2008 05:41 AM  9 years agoPost 22
pariah

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South Jordan, UT -​United States of​America

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Yeah... I'm paranoid about safety with clear to begin with - with my personal preference being to take it to a body shop for clear.

Somehow, those documents only strengthen that preference... let the pros with proper equipment do the job. It would take an awful lot of canopies to save money by shooting your own clear, given the cost of the proper PPE.

The part about latex gloves allowing the isocyanates through the gloves, without leaving sign of a problem is not comforting. (Though it's not surprising - latex is porous, after all)

It makes one realize that a simple pair of overalls are similarly not enough protection. While I'm sure the suits sold specifically for painting clear would be OK, I can't help but wonder how the $8 Tyvek suits would do - I'm betting not good enough...


--
The last thing I want in a heli is a few loose screws.

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07-08-2008 03:01 PM  9 years agoPost 23
chuckjones

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Highland Lakes, NJ -​USA

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Well, for $26, not sure he cares about having a sale, since he makes far more supplying auto body shops than having me ask questions for 45 minutes. If it was my business, I'd say - I don't supply them to consumers.

The article is comforting to me honestly. If I spray clear coat maybe once a week, and have a "clean" respirator on, sounds fine. Need to keep it off the skin, and probably better gloves.

What sort of suit do I need to look into? I find this confusing now.

The forced air unit is baffling to me for this reason. The air source is next to me...? It's pumping air that's poisoned.. no? I'd have to put it 100 feet away at the corner of my property since I pump the stuff essentially outdoors.

The other important thing is to let it cure outside of my house. How long should I let it sit in my shed hardening?

BTW, I ordered Nelsons Hobby clear. If it looks halfway decent, I won't continue to use clear. But I'll never go to an auto body place to have them spray. Not very DIY, defeats the purpose.

I'm using the Faskolor paints mostly, which are "non-toxic". That said, I use a mask then too.

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07-08-2008 05:57 PM  9 years agoPost 24
pariah

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South Jordan, UT -​United States of​America

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Need to keep it off the skin, and probably better gloves.
The problem is twofold:
1.) The clear is in an aerosol - if you can smell it (without a mask), you're getting skin exposure. It's not a matter of simply not spraying it on yourself. You have to protect everything.
2.) Simply wearing gloves isn't sufficient - you need gloves made of a material that won't pass the isocyanates. Latex gloves are only slightly better than nothing - but you'll still get exposure to the stuff.

The thing with isocyanates is that you don't have to inhale it. It gets through the skin just as easily. The way the stuff reacts to humans is that repeated small, or a single big exposure, will sensitize your body to it. It doesn't take much exposure to cause problems. At that point, even a miniscule amount absorbed through the skin or inaled will cause a severe allergic reaction, ranging from hives, rashes, swelling, to asthma attacks. So the stuff has a definite "poison ivy" effect.
The forced air unit is baffling to me for this reason. The air source is next to me...? It's pumping air that's poisoned.. no? I'd have to put it 100 feet away at the corner of my property since I pump the stuff essentially outdoors.
You're absolutely right that having the unit next to you, in the clearcoat aerosol is stupid.

Placement of the unit is important. It has to be in an area with fresh air - hence, the 40+ foot hose on the unit I linked to. One way to do it is have the air input inside the house, and the hose goes through a sealed portion of a wall/door.

As far as cure times go - it depends on the clearcoat used; read the directions. The one time I've used it, it was a 6-hour cure, but I left it for 24 hours.
But I'll never go to an auto body place to have them spray. Not very DIY, defeats the purpose.
I'll have to agree to disagree here. For me, the point was to develop a skill, maybe save some money, and not cause health problems in the process. Considering the cost of the PPE, it would take a lot of canopies to be cheaper to shoot clear than an auto body shop - especially if you know the guy & he'll shoot it really cheap or even for free (using leftover clear from a car job).

I've got a long way to go before I'd consider my painting skills are where I would like to be. I'll take the advice of experienced painters when they tell us to preserve our health and let an auto body shop shoot the clear.
I'm using the Faskolor paints mostly, which are "non-toxic". That said, I use a mask then too.
Which is a good idea. I know the non-toxic auto air colors that I've used explicitly instruct you to use the mask even though the paint is "non-toxic". I imagine it has something to do with the difference between swallowing a substance and inhaling it. A lot of things can be swallowed and cause no ill effects, but inhaling or injecting are a different story.


--
The last thing I want in a heli is a few loose screws.

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