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HelicopterMiniature Aircraft Whiplash & Fury 55 › New Fury- few ?'s...
03-17-2003 01:40 AM  14 years agoPost 1
SteveNYC1

rrNovice

NYC

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Hi guys,

a new Fury Expert has entered the world today.....upon 1st flight- all is well.....

few questions for you experts out there, here goes;

1. I'm running a "Coarse Air Filter" on the OS61WC as I anticipate running at grassy fields...I know most people don't use them- what's the general consensus on their use? (robs power----tuning problems--- etc??)

2. The tail gears seem noisy- and I thought I'd fill the tail case with some lithium grease- but the MA manual says not to overfill the gears with excess as it will be forced out through the case during use.....how might I prevent the noise- what do you guys suggest?

3. I'm using 680 JR Ergo blades and they came with bare wooden roots- what's the proper way to prep them for use? (I coated them with epoxy- is this correct?)

4. Is there an alternative to the MA start coupler? I've grinded a flat spot on the shaft yet the coupler has come loose a few times- does anyone make a split-collar type start coupler or a dual set-screw coupler?

Thanks guys- you're great!
(photo coming soon)

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03-17-2003 03:19 AM  14 years agoPost 2
kenman

rrApprentice

Columbia, Maryland, USA

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I used an air filter on mine too, for the first several flights. The last time I flew, I noticed I had to keep leaning the engine out nearly every flight which struck me as odd. I expected to see my air filter full of dirt because I was flying from a dusty field, but when I pulled it out, all I saw was that it was coated in oil. Not a lot of oil, but when I blew through it I thought I felt some resistance. When I cleaned it, sure enough I blew through it and felt much less resistance.

The filter I used is this one:
Filter on Rick's RC

p.s. The one I actually got looked a little different that this one, in that the screen is hemispherical, giving a bit more surface area. Still, oil makes it a little restrictive I think. I wish there was a better way to protect the engine from dust and dirt.

Ken

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03-17-2003 04:27 AM  14 years agoPost 3
Dr.Ben

rrMaster

Richmond, VA, USA

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Get yourself a nice piece of heavy carpet and use that for a landing pad. You'll keep crud out of the engine and the mechanics. Makes a BIG difference.

Ben Minor

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03-17-2003 04:30 PM  14 years agoPost 4
kenman

rrApprentice

Columbia, Maryland, USA

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Yes a big piece of heavy carpet would help I suppose. But I love to do autos but don't always land "on the spot". Every time I land I guess I'll have to go pick up the heli and put it back on the carpet. I suppose that'll be my motivation to get better at autos.

What are the chances of a corner of the carpet blowing up into the blades? That would be ugly. How big of a piece of carpet are we talking about?

Ken

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03-17-2003 06:05 PM  14 years agoPost 5
Dr.Ben

rrMaster

Richmond, VA, USA

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Blow up IS a valid concern, especially at the bottom of on auto when you flare hard. You can glue a few strips of flat steel to the bottom for weight, or just stake the corners with some small nails. A rubber mat about 3 ft. square is a bit less likelt to blow up.

I use a reject electrical isolator pad made of silicone rubber that my friend who works for the power co obtains for me.


Ben Minor

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03-17-2003 09:57 PM  14 years agoPost 6
3dwanabe

rrVeteran

Huntersville, NC

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Air Filter

I used an air filter while learning to hover. Even when flying over dusty parking lots only a few inches off the ground, I found only slight discoloration (dirt) on the foam aircleaner element. After learning to hover, I got rid of the air filter and noticed an immediate increase in headspeed and I also had to open the needle valve a few clicks to maintain a good smoke trail. My theory is that the airflow restriction from the air filter increased the fuel draw which had to be compensated for by closing the needle valve slightly. The engine also required less fuel because there is less air available to the engine for a given throttle opening and rpm.

Roy

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03-18-2003 12:54 AM  14 years agoPost 7
rcheliflyer

rrKey Veteran

calif., usa

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I don't run an air cleaner and try to "fly clean" if it's dusty enough to get in the motor excessively then you need to find a cleaner place, besides
that dirt is also going into your mech's.
Also some grassy areas are better maintained than others and can be
quite clean, unless it's just been cut.
The carpet idea works great, I use a 4x6 foot piece when I fly in areas
that need a pad.
Dr.Ben's idea about weight or staking is good as it will blow up
especially on windy days.
The way I weighed mine down is with a couple of pieces of rebar that
I ziptied to the ends after poking some holes, this allows easy rollup.
They were only a couple of bucks each at Home Depot and were 4'
long, I painted them with some spray paint to slo down rusting.
Tail gears, when you clean out the old grease, make sure the adjust is
good, I like the MA syn grease for this application, some noise is normal, they won't be silent like nylon gears.
On wood blade roots I like to use slo ca instead of epoxy, scuff the grips, and clamp overnite.
David's idea for the start coupler is the way to go, since you have ground a flat on the shaft already, the MA flex starter would damaged by this.

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03-19-2003 11:23 PM  14 years agoPost 8
SteveNYC1

rrNovice

NYC

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Thanks

Thank you guys- all very good info.

As for prepping the raw unfinished blade roots- what do u guys think?
The folks at Heliproz says just use thin CA and glue all joining surfaces- is this what you guys do? (the guys flying woodies anyway)

Beside the OS 8 glowplug- are there other recommendations? (OS 61 WC engine)

Here's a shot of my Fury before final clearcoating------

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03-20-2003 12:30 AM  14 years agoPost 9
rockcrawler

rrVeteran

Covington Wa

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Raptor 60 v2 hex coupler workes great on mine and you dont have to buy an MA starter.
80% of heli guys at the field will have 6mill hex unless they all have MA birds. (Not likely.)

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