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HelicopterBeginners Corner › Assitance required with 401 setup
03-16-2003 04:58 AM  14 years agoPost 1
chub

rrApprentice

Melbourne, Australia

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I have recently purchased a GY401.. which is now installed and all repairs have been completed since my last crash.

I have had conflicting advise on the gyro setup.

The manual states:
To MECHANICALLY adjust the rudder neutral in Normal mode first.. and this requires flying the heli... is this correct?...
then...
Switch to HH and adjust gain.

ANY and ALL advise would be GREATLY appreciated on this.

Yes, I am a begginer,,, and NO, I have NO help available to me in the area, so I am going to have to do this on my own.


THANKS EVERYONE!

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03-16-2003 05:03 AM  14 years agoPost 2
groundeffect

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Canada

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chub: You need to adjust your rudder in normal mode such that you do not have any trim what so ever dialed in.

So, make sure your sub-trim on your rudder servo is at 0. And make sure your rudder trim on your Tx is in the center.

If your helicopter does not fly correctly (ie: the tail is not trimmed with these settings)
you have to adjust the rudder servo,arm and or coupler mechanically, yes.

And when turning on your helicopter's radio system, you should turn on in HH mode, wait about 4 seconds forthe 401 to init() then your ready.


Good luck, keep us posted.
hope that helps,
Dean

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03-16-2003 06:00 AM  14 years agoPost 3
chub

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Melbourne, Australia

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your speedy reply is apreciated!

I'm not clear on what you mean.

when you say "tail trimmed".. do you mean the model is holding straight in hover?.. IE. a certian amount of rudder deflection.. or do you mean servo @ 90deg, rudder at 0 deg? IE.. neutral/no input?

this is what I am trying next... I was told to adjust the rudder control rod until the heli holds straigh in hover... meaning, a resoable amount of RIGHT RUDDER.. correct?

basically, should I set the rudder/linkage as per the manual?.. 90deg dervo/0deg rudder?..

or as I have been advised... to compensate for torque before any rudder input?

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03-16-2003 06:44 AM  14 years agoPost 4
FinnDave

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Kouvola, Finland

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you need to hover in normal mode and adjust the tail pushrod until it hovers straight with no trim and the stick in the middle. The the HH won't have to fight an out-of--trim condition. I was helping a friend set up a 401 yesterday and that is exactly what we did. I have had one in use since last spring and once set, it holds very well.

David S., Kouvola, Finland

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03-16-2003 07:00 AM  14 years agoPost 5
chub

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Melbourne, Australia

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GREAT!>..
Exactly what I was after!

Thanks FinnDave!

Will give it a shot righ away!

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03-16-2003 07:11 AM  14 years agoPost 6
FinnDave

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Kouvola, Finland

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Most welcome, it's a great gyro, you won't be disappointed!

David S., Kouvola, Finland

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03-16-2003 10:00 AM  14 years agoPost 7
donlynn

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New Zealand

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Gidday
I too struggled with the GY401 / 9253 setup.
I thought you could set the "neutral point" which I assumed to be the hover setting tail straight ahead while in "non HH" mode land turn rx off then on with tx in "HH" now tail set but no,
it needed mech ajustment then sweet as. Also I found it best NOT to turn on rx with tx in hold as I have a tail ofset in hold(kick prevention) and this was read by the gyro as the "neutral point" so it went into a slow piro on liftoff.

going really well now, if I let the gyro take control it flies the heli really well !!

Regards Don

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03-16-2003 12:30 PM  14 years agoPost 8
chub

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Melbourne, Australia

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Started the linkage adjustment for the rudder... nearly got there.. but then....
.. something I have been concerned about since I bought my heli... the battery died!

I was lifting the heli off the ground when I noticed poor servo response... landed... then complete failure!... couldn't even drop the throttle!

The Futaba manual states that when the voltage drops below a designated level, throttle is dropped to idle, this can be reset for 30 seconds by dropping the stick back. I did not notice this "drop to idle" characterisitc ... everything simply failed!... and all within 10 seconds!
..I hate to think what would have happened if my heli was more than a few millimeters off the ground!
.. is there any reliable method of testing the cells?.. how long are they good for?

BTW, will resume with the gyro adjustment tomorrow

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03-16-2003 08:01 PM  14 years agoPost 9
donlynn

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New Zealand

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R30 ~230 tanks
Gidday
There are lots of different ideas

I use a onboard led voltmeter and monitor it
some folks use a load (like a resistor that will draw a couple of amps ) in parallel with a accurate voltmeter and test battery before engine start as well .
I like to have a wee look at the led voltmeter at switch on and after my preflight so they have had some time to discharge then I check again when I do a fuel check at 1/2 and 1/4 tank.
how long are they good for?

the usefull life per charge- depends on the chemistry(nicad, nimh or lithium) and the physical size. I run a 1100mah nicad AA 4 cell pack on my raptor and get 3 flights per charge, I could get more but it's a risk I dont need to take , I use my field charger at 2 amps~2C(2*1100) while having a yarn with my mates.
How long does the battery last as in number of cycles or years.
I can answer for nicads only as I don't have much experience with the other chemistry's
I've only had my pack for ~6 months as a heli pack with it's style of current draw so I'm still learning. and the only time I do a complete discharge -DO NOT GO BELOW 1.1 VOLTS PER CELL is when I forget and leave the rx on .
I havn't counted the number of cycles but 600- 900 rings a bell
I've had slopesoaring gliders that have lasted heaps more like 4-5 years, they have tended to die just after I've shorted /excessive high discharge or overcharge/ cooked them,
I'll probably smash/dent them before I wear them out.

Regards Don

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03-17-2003 12:04 AM  14 years agoPost 10
chub

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Melbourne, Australia

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hmmm.... 3 flights isn't a lot!... I thought they would be good for a couple of hours!

I'll have to invest in a meter

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03-17-2003 06:04 AM  14 years agoPost 11
FinnDave

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Kouvola, Finland

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You didn't mention what size of battery pack you are using (or I didn't see it, early here and still half-asleep!). Five servos and a HH gyro will empty a small (1000mah) battery pretty quickly. How long are your flights?
I have 3 9202s, a 401/90253 and a 3001 on throttle in my Raptor and get 6 to 8 ten minute flights from a fully charged 1900mah nicad pack.

David S., Kouvola, Finland

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03-17-2003 06:16 AM  14 years agoPost 12
donlynn

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New Zealand

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Gidday
I run a identical setup
1-3001, 3- 9202, gy401/9253.
1100mAh AA sanyo (AE cells I think a light green colour)
(highest discharge rate the local shop said!!)

3 flights at ~15 1/2 minutes, I'll confirm the voltage value.

Regards Don

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03-17-2003 06:25 AM  14 years agoPost 13
FinnDave

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Kouvola, Finland

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When I got my first heli (well, first after a 10 or 12 year layoff) I used a 600 pack and got 1 flight! Since then the smallest I have used is 1700 and now all three of my helis use 1900 SCRs.

Good choice of servos, though Don

David S., Kouvola, Finland

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03-17-2003 07:27 AM  14 years agoPost 14
donlynn

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New Zealand

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Gidday Dave
Are those cells sub C's? I went for the AA's to keeep the weight down.
Is yours a 36?
I checked my recharge decision point at ~4.9 -5.0 v.
I bought the servos for a yet to fly hirobo 60 jet ranger(too scared)

Regards Don

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03-17-2003 07:32 AM  14 years agoPost 15
FinnDave

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Kouvola, Finland

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HI Don,

Yes, the cells are sub Cs, as used by the electric flight people, I believe. My Raptor is a 50, and with the 1900 pack the balance is spot on. I previously used 1700s which were OK but the pack didn't last more than a season.

I'm happy to accept a slight weight penalty in exchange for a reliable supply of volts!

I have the same type of pack in my Ergo 50 and Vario Sky Fox.

David S., Kouvola, Finland

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03-18-2003 12:42 PM  14 years agoPost 16
chub

rrApprentice

Melbourne, Australia

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Just got some details of my heli...
4.8V
1000 mAh
servos
4x S3001
1x S9253
GY401

I can get about 20 minutes out of a tank... and I know I have run at LEAST 3 tanks before I charged it.. more like 5 though.

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03-18-2003 01:10 PM  14 years agoPost 17
mvhf

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Antwerp, Belgium

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I've got the same setup on my raptor and get around 15min of flight time this results in a usage of 200 to 300 mah. So if you have cells of 1100 mah this will result in between 3 or 4 fligths maybe 5, but I would never trust to run on almost empty bateries.

I've recently changed to 5 cells instead of 4 (5x2400) and get 8 flights out of it without a problem, but, you have to be carefull using 5 cells, since a GY401/9253 will die on 6 volts, I've put a 5 volt regulator before the gyro and it works fine.

Marc

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03-18-2003 01:16 PM  14 years agoPost 18
chub

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Melbourne, Australia

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I have an electronics catalogue here...

Are NiMh any good?...

they have AAs here.. 4000mAh!

.. they are quite expensive tho

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03-18-2003 01:26 PM  14 years agoPost 19
mvhf

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Antwerp, Belgium

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No idea about that, I just use NiCd, I had these of my electric which I changed from 12 to 14 cells, Since I had tow packs I just used the other 10 to make two 5 cells rx batteries.

To my opinion 1700mah should be enough for an rx, it's no use putting in expesive batteries, unless you have some spare ones.

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03-18-2003 06:14 PM  14 years agoPost 20
FinnDave

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Kouvola, Finland

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I have always understood taut NiMH are less tolerant of vibration than Nicads, and also do not like cold weather, which rules them out for me.

David S., Kouvola, Finland

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