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HelicopterBlades and Night Flying › Are my blades ruined?
03-14-2003 03:01 AM  14 years agoPost 1
chriscry

rrNovice

S.E. Massachusetts

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I just finished gluing my stock 550mm wood raptor baldes and I noticed the plastic clear covering was really loose after i finished, i took my heat gun and lightly (being very careful) heated the covering so it would shrink a bit, but it shrank to much around the blade grips and the covering got warped.
I know when the blades start to spin the covering will flap around and eventually tear off. Does this mean my blades are no good or should I recover them or just take it all off and it will be fine?
thanks, chris

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03-14-2003 03:46 AM  14 years agoPost 2
RCADDICT

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Tupelo,MS

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Maybe this will help

If it is just a small loose area of covering, the use a covering iron to adhere as much as possible back to the blade and then wick the edges with thin CA. It should hold up fine so long as the blade is not also warped.

***People tell me now and again that I am warped but I still function just fine!

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03-14-2003 05:48 AM  14 years agoPost 3
sultan68

rrApprentice

Broomfield, CO​Elevation 5420'

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Re-coat them

You definitely should NEVER fly without the coating as it's there to keep the wood from getting oil-soaked from all the nitro spray/smoke during flight which would eventually soften them to the point of jeopardizing their functionality as well as SAFETY.

In fact, all the fancy glass/carbon fiber blades out there are nothing more than WOOD blades coated in a gel-coat or carbon fiber. If I'm wrong, somebody correct me, but I believe this is true.

Better to re-shrink those!

Chris

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03-14-2003 06:08 AM  14 years agoPost 4
chriscry

rrNovice

S.E. Massachusetts

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How do I put new covering on when the blade grips are all ready glued?

thanks again, chris

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03-14-2003 06:10 AM  14 years agoPost 5
FinnDave

rrElite Veteran

Kouvola, Finland

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Chris, you asked to be corrected...I KNOW that SAB, NHP, Quick UK blades are definitely NOT wood-cored, I have broken enough of them to know there is no wood in them, usually a foam core. My understanding was that this is the case for all composite blades.

David S., Kouvola, Finland

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03-14-2003 06:20 AM  14 years agoPost 6
sultan68

rrApprentice

Broomfield, CO​Elevation 5420'

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Good question.

You can try prying them off with a knife...

Anyone have any ideas? I forgot about those evil glued grips...

Chris

PS: Dave, I stand corrected. Thanks for the info!

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03-14-2003 07:08 AM  14 years agoPost 7
FinnDave

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Kouvola, Finland

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Chris, you're welcome, but that is one piece of information I'd rather not know, if you know what I mean!

David S., Kouvola, Finland

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03-14-2003 07:14 AM  14 years agoPost 8
sultan68

rrApprentice

Broomfield, CO​Elevation 5420'

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Agreed!

I'd prefer not to know what the insides of my blades look like either!

Chris

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03-14-2003 04:50 PM  14 years agoPost 9
Maxx

rrKey Veteran

Shreveport Louisana

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Chris, like Alexander's pic shows, just cover the center of the blade and either use a fuel proof paint of thin CA on the tip and root ends.
As to covering; I prefer the adhesive backed coverings in leiu of Moneykote of other iron on stuff...not that MK won't work...I just suck at doing ANYTHING with a heat gun! You can go to any sign-banner making shop and get enough 2 mil vinyl covering to do your blades for a couple of bucks and in any color you can think of...yellow and pink make the rotor disk really stand out!!!

When you re-cover your blades (and no matter what you use to cover 'em with ) remember to make all the edges face the rear of the blade! A seam facing forward is an invitation to disaster and/or entertainment (depending on weather it's your heli or not...).

Chris

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03-14-2003 06:12 PM  14 years agoPost 10
Brian Bennett

rrKey Veteran

Dugway/Tooele UT, ​USA

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There is a great description in Ray's heli manual of the "how to" for blade covering with either Fascal or Monocoat. Included, is a little formula for the correct amount of excess covering to use.


--Gi

Team MRC-Hirobo and Model Avionics Rep

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03-14-2003 11:41 PM  14 years agoPost 11
chriscry

rrNovice

S.E. Massachusetts

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Thanks all for the replies.
I think Ill go to my LHS (no heli stuff) and get some CA and some mono-cote and try that, I think thats the easiest, but do I need an iron or will a heat gun work ok ?

thanks again, chris

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03-26-2003 02:20 AM  14 years agoPost 12
BROWNIE92

rrNovice

Joplin, MO

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I have used Trim tape to recover blades it is very thin and adhesive. I'm not sure of it intended use but it seems to work well for blades. where I got it, it came in 5 inch widths and plenty long to cover .30 size blades.

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