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HelicopterMain Discussion › Tuning OS 61 WC and MP
03-13-2003 07:35 PM  14 years agoPost 1
smile

rrApprentice

NC

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When I hover I've got medium headspd. When I power out headspeed slows a bit but just quits pulling. A loop bogs a bit and loses headspd. When I lean the engine it does improve some- not enough- and the engine makes a skipping or popping sound, which I have been told is lean. It sounds almost like it is getting on and off the pipe, like I'm in no man's land. Should I extend or shorten the header gap, or.....? Thanks

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03-13-2003 08:43 PM  14 years agoPost 2
scoobydoo

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U.K.

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WC will not run well on a pipe the timing is at 152 degrees ish, use a muffler and away you go,

As for bogging well it's just down to the lack of power,

Safe flying,

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03-13-2003 08:57 PM  14 years agoPost 3
chriss

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Sunny Florida

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It does sound like your lean. Typically you want the combined combination of the high speed needle and mid range needle to be out around two full turns. Say 1.5 on the high speed needle and 1/2 turn on the low speed needle.

Set the pipe/header gap at around 1/8th inch, you are using the MP header right? You will not have as dramatic a difference in headspeeds between idle ups and normal like a muffler. As a pipe really only works well at one speed. Mine run around 1800 on the head (16740 on the engine) but they just sing along as smooth as can be and make great power on Wildcat "YS 20/20" fuel. Morgan 30 will tend to run a bit rougher.

Set the needles so that she runs with a nice plume of smoke. Not as thick a plume as you would get with Morgan 30 and a muffler but still easily visible in the sky.

Use an Enya #3 or OS #8 plug.

This combination WILL work great. No matter what anyone says, the Muscle pipe and OS61SXWC are a fantastic combination when set up properly.

Chris

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03-13-2003 11:38 PM  14 years agoPost 4
smile

rrApprentice

NC

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Does moving the pipe closer to the header, smaller gap, make it run higher RPMs or less?

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03-14-2003 01:42 AM  14 years agoPost 5
chriss

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Sunny Florida

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Shorter=higher rpm's. But there is a definate "usable" range. If you get it too short, the engine will become hard to tune and tend to overspeed when unloaded, eat plugs and other bad things. Too long and it will never "come on pipe" as they say. On the three or four engines I have run with the MP, about an 1/8" gap is correct. Gap changes of as little as 1/8" will make a big difference. Keep the engine rich, this is one thing people tend to do wrong when using a tuned pipe. With a muffled engine, generally speaking, you lean the engine for more power. The whole idea behind a tuned pipe is to force more fuel through the engine for more power, don't over lean it. Start really rich and sneak up on it adjusting the curves and needles together as you go untill the engine is happy.

Bruce Bennet has a great method for setting up the WC motor on a pipe, ok a highly timed WC, but the proceedure still works on a stock engine. Lets see if I can get it right here:

Set your p-curves for +/- 9 degrees, more can be added later if needed.

Usually you can leave the idle needle as shipped, but if you need to set it then start at step 1 otherwise jump to step 2.

1) Close the mid range needle and open the high range needle 1 turn. Start the heli, holding the head from spinning, adjust the radio so that the engine is idleing peacefully. Quickly open the throttle so as to "burp" the engine. What does it do? Properly set , the engine will jump to life instantly. If it's too lean it will just quit. If it's too rich, it will bog and slowly begin to rev up.

2) Close the mid range needle and turn the high range needle out two turns, do not change the idle needle. Now bring the heli into a hover in idle up, raise the collective stick to full travel and listen to the heli as it ascends, if it cackles, richen the needle, if it bogs, lean the needle.

3) Once you get the high speed needle where you like it, do a few large loops and listen to the engine as it unloads at the backside of the maneuver. If it overspeeds, richen the midrange needle, if the engine stays the same, your good.

All this assumes you have a decent throttle curve set up to begin with, make it linear...100% stick=100% carb openning, 0%= closed.

Hope this all helps

Chris

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03-14-2003 08:49 PM  14 years agoPost 6
scoobydoo

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U.K.

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Hey guys do not use a pipe with the wc, it will never tune ...

Use a muffler and have a happy life

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03-15-2003 07:53 AM  14 years agoPost 7
DOKEY

rrProfessor

Northamptonshire UK

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Not sure what the big differences are between the 61 SX and 61SX WC, but I am using the 61 SX on the Muscle Pipe in Raptor 60 with 12 1/2 % CP, it is critical on engine set up i.e plug and needles but once done its a scream !

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03-15-2003 12:40 PM  14 years agoPost 8
KenJ

rrVeteran

Ohio, USA

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Head Speed

Sounds a little like you need to verify your actual head speed.

For mild aerobatics, you should have the engine running near it's peak performance rpm which on a stock O.S. .61 SX-H WC Heli is 16,000 RPM.

Take that number, devide it by your gear ratio, and that is what your head speed should be.

Also, the engine in it's stock configuration is designed to run on 5% to 15% fuel. That being said, it does run on 30%, but not as efficiently as on 15%.

When set up correctly, a Muscle Pipe on a stock WC, - Works Just Fine.

Muscle Pipe on a modified WC, - Works Just Fine also.

If you need the extra power from 30% fuel, get in touch with either Bruce Bennett or Brett Moorer at Allied Hobbies and ask him to do the head modification for 30%. Both are good guys.

Ken

Team Horizon

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