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HelicopterPainting › Better prices on Paint.
03-13-2003 08:35 AM  14 years agoPost 1
Tek

rrVeteran

Yukon, OK USA

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I need to find a better place to buy automotive quality paint for my canopies. I go to my local Nappa and 1 pint of Urethane cost 65.00 and the thinner another 35.00 I would like to get different colors without killing the bank.

-------Does it fly?-------

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03-14-2003 04:19 AM  14 years agoPost 2
Leardriver

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Bridgewater, NJ

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Try http://www.innate.com. Nate sells House of Kolor paints in small quantites. But be warned....the materials are still expensive and truthfully if you haven't spent time "learning" to paint you are in for a bit of a rude awakening when you try to use the stuff. I have begun painting canopies in my spare time for a little "hobby money", and all I can tell you is I now have about $2K invested in my little "side venture" between the booth I built, spray guns (mostly fairly inexpensive ones I might add...except for my Sata which I reserve for clear coate only) and paint. Not to mention extras like a DA sander and buffer.

I can honestly say that unless you really just want to do it yourself for the sake of doing it.....send it out to a pro like Bill from Arizona Heli. These guys are setup to do it cause it's what they do. Just my 2 cents. Good luck either way.

Leardriver

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03-14-2003 08:14 AM  14 years agoPost 3
Tek

rrVeteran

Yukon, OK USA

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Painting

I like to paint it myself. I have been painting model cars and airplanes for years so I know how. It just is not the same when someone else does it for you. I already know the investment it takes and have everything except a good place to buy paint in small quantities. Thanks for the link.

-------Does it fly?-------

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03-14-2003 02:08 PM  14 years agoPost 4
Leardriver

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Bridgewater, NJ

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No problem nd good luck.

Leardriver

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03-14-2003 03:49 PM  14 years agoPost 5
Lift

rrElite Veteran

Houston, TX

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TechnikVR,
I placed my first order with Nate at www.innate.com and it arrived yesterday. I already had some PPG Omni AU clear coat so I called Nate and asked him to help me get a package together to do a couple of canopies.

He hooked me up with some Shimrin NEONS, Adhesion Promoter, Primer Sealer, Catalyst, and Reducer. The box came with alot of product brochures and of course the HOK Tech Manual which is actually written in plain english for us non pro-painter types. The only things that I wish I had ordered though is the Wax & Grease Remover and some Primer Surfacer. That was my fault!

Anyhow, I shot the Primer Sealer last night and it went on REAL well. I hope to shoot some colors tonight!!

Take the time and order the good stuff. You will be glad you did! Believe me....

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03-14-2003 04:13 PM  14 years agoPost 6
Ace Dude

rrProfessor

USA

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Lift, are you shooting on fiberglass or a bleach bottle canopy? Please post some pics when done.

Also, what type of spray gun are you using?

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03-14-2003 04:45 PM  14 years agoPost 7
Lift

rrElite Veteran

Houston, TX

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Ace Dude,
I'm painting two Century poly-proplyene canopies currently. The ones they are selling now with the pre-molded mounting holes and all are VERY thick and firm. They are pretty good for painting as long as you do the necessary prep work.

Here is my original canopy shot with rattle-can Rustoleum paints and cleared with the PPG Omni AU:

The two I am currently painting will be the same type of fade but with the HOK Shimrin Neons using a HVLP detail gun. I expect MUCH better results. But, so far the paint on the above canopy is stuck like chuck!!

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03-15-2003 03:03 AM  14 years agoPost 8
CliffM69

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Mesa, AZ

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Pretty nice fade job for using "rattle cans"

Cliff

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03-15-2003 02:52 PM  14 years agoPost 9
Lift

rrElite Veteran

Houston, TX

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Cliff,
Thanks dude!

Guys,
Last night I shot the two canopies with a three-color fade using the HOK Shimrin Neons. Man oh man are these BRIGHT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I'd take a pic but I'm afraid the glow would break my digi cam.

No really I will post some pics but after I shoot the clear. That will be later this weekend. I used my new Astro Pneumatic HVLP detail gun and it is SWEET. The atomization is pretty darn high and by varying the trigger you can REALLY spray light like a big airbrush. Can't wait to shoot the clear. These suckas are gonna sing

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03-16-2003 05:07 AM  14 years agoPost 10
Tek

rrVeteran

Yukon, OK USA

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paint

I'm going to give them a try. Thanks for the help guys.

-------Does it fly?-------

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03-16-2003 05:59 PM  14 years agoPost 11
Lift

rrElite Veteran

Houston, TX

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Guys,
Check my gallery for some shots from last nights painting action. I got a horrible digi cam and the colors are almost dead but I shot those two canopies with HOK Shimrin NEONS. They are SOOOO bright and vibrant.

I used my brand new Astro Pneumatic "Star" HVLP Detail gun. This little gun will spray a VERY fine atomized pattern almost like an big airbrush. I don't have a good pic of the White/Yellow/Orange fade canopy but that one I spayed with the trigger barely pulled and it REALLY broke the paint into a fine pattern. Looks good.

Now, I got to figure out why I have some orange peel. I guess I got some more learning to do but I only reduced my RTS paint by 25%. I have heard some of the RC Jet painter guys on RCU say that the Omni AU flows much better if reduced 200%! Wow, that must be like shooting water!

Anyhow, what do you think?

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03-16-2003 08:14 PM  14 years agoPost 12
Bill Ludwig

rrVeteran

Tucson, AZ

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Lookin' good, Payton. Assuming your base is smooth, clearcoat orange peal can be caused by several things, but it's probably that you're not laying it on quite heavy enough. It's a trick to get it on heavy enough to flow out, yet one more pass usually causes a run. I've read that there's actually an aditive in clears that produces a slightly orange peel look - take a look at new car finishes and you'll see it there too. A perfectly smooth finish shows up more imperfections, so it's don'e on purpose.

Enjoy,

- Bill

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03-16-2003 11:34 PM  14 years agoPost 13
Tek

rrVeteran

Yukon, OK USA

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Painting

Use 1500 or 2000 grit wetsand paper to make it smooth. Use the tips at CanopyFX.com

-------Does it fly?-------

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03-17-2003 04:03 PM  14 years agoPost 14
Lift

rrElite Veteran

Houston, TX

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Bill,
Thanks! Coming from someone like you I'll take that compliment to heart!!

I think your right. The first coat was a semi-tack coat. The second was sprayed on a little heavier. It didn't flash out as smooth as I wanted so I shot both with a third coat. I layed it on alot thicker and it did flash much better. Actually, they look pretty good but I want that glass slick look like your Fury canopies! I think the culprit was probably the application and maybe a little to do with the PPG "Flex Add" that I added in. Maybe I'll reduce it more next time and lay it on heavier. I do get a little concerned about adding to much weight though!

Technik,
I'm trying to avoid having to sand/buff if I can. These plastic canopies worry me when it comes to sanding and buffing them alot after painting. They flex quite a bit and I would hate to crack the finish. I got some 1000 grit but I'll try the 1500/2000 wet sand trick on a test area and see how it comes out.

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03-18-2003 07:48 AM  14 years agoPost 15
Tek

rrVeteran

Yukon, OK USA

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Paint

I hate to do the sanding buffing also, but it is the best guarantee too a glass smooth finish. I used to just lay the clear on thick and wet so that it just smooths itself out, but after trying the wet sanding method I was able to get an even better result everytime. It also removes any paint and clear coat imperfections. I do agree when painting plastic canopies to not remove it off the stand until the paint and clear is applied and dry.

-------Does it fly?-------

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03-18-2003 09:24 PM  14 years agoPost 16
eSmith

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Edmonton, Alberta, Canada

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Got it too good.

I guess I'm spoiled, I happen to work for an industrial and Automotive paint manufacture in Canada. We also produce a flexable line of coatings for fabric covered aircraft, I figure this might work on the bleech bottle raptor canopy I have. I won't be painting the original body until i get the rear faring for my parker fibreglass body (already have the front, rear on order) and paint both to match. Then I'll look at the bleech bottle. It will be tricky because the surface is not prone to adheasion and will most likely delaminate in sheets after the first scratch, to avoid this the surface of the body must be sanded, primed, sanded, primed over and over to leave a suitable substrate to topcoat. (after the first sand/ prime you will notice little "Hairs" sticking up everywhere, you have to repeat the process until this is all gone.)

The reason that paint is so expensive is the volume you are buying. There is no money in providing paint one or two ounces at a time and pints and liters aren't much better. The labor costs become exponential also, it takes much less effort to open a tap and fill a 5 gallon pail than it does to can off, seal and label 40 pints. Customers demand the same level of service if you are matching a pint for them as they do if you were painting a fleet of trucks for them, A company has to offer this so the extra costs are reflected in the smaller volumes to cover the overhead.

Another reason would be that almost nobody wants to paint thier canopy white (made with cheap pigments) instead we all like reds, metallics and pearls. These are not cheap to produce as they use expensive organic pigment compounds.

Hope this makes things clear as mud.

-eSmith.

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