RunRyder RC
 6  Topic Subscribe
WATCH
 1 page 672 views POST REPLY
Scorpion Power Scorpion Power
12-02-2007 12:32 PM  9 years agoPost 1
KarbonBird

rrKey Veteran

Australia

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

After fitting an AP to my T-Rex 600 I did a bit of bench testing and all seemed to work fine. Heat from hand sent the swash in the opposite direction, aile, elev etc moved manually in the right direction.

After taking off, I calibrated it then started to up the gain on the AP. The heli started moving in the direction of the tail even after a small amount of gain was applied. I had to take immediate evasive action and switched the AP off.

There wer no trees about or anything close by that could have affected the AP so this is all rather strange. I have had the AP for a good few months now and have never used it for aerial work as I'm quite comfortable doing without it. It would be nice to have it though so hopefully I will get it working properly one of these days.

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
12-02-2007 01:05 PM  9 years agoPost 2
Hogster

rrKey Veteran

Surrey, UK

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Try calibrating on the ground first, whilst standing some distance from the heli. Then take off and add gain slowly.

I assume when you calibrate the heli is more or less hovering hands-off already? You need to add trim such the heli hovers unaided (more or less) BEFORE you calibrate.

Once calibrated and gain has been added, be prepared to add a little trim until the heli stops drifting.

Hope that helps,

David

PM  EMAIL  HOMEPAGE  Attn:RR  Quote
12-02-2007 01:38 PM  9 years agoPost 3
rerazor

rrElite Veteran

Mich.

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Also, don't move the tail after you CAL, it can change the IR sensor last reading. That was one of the biggest problem I kept making with it. You will have to fine tune it with Trim.

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
12-02-2007 07:34 PM  9 years agoPost 4
fergus

rrKey Veteran

Ireland

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

When you setup the CCPM mixing did you disable the IR sensor setting in the ap2000i? As I understand it this is important. Is the heli flying ok with the gain at zero?

If you hold the heli steady with cyclic when you calibrate then you should not need much trim in the air. I prefer to hold the cyclic where it is needed in the hover for wind etc then calibrate rather than introducing trim before I calibrate. The heli holds very well when I then increase the gain and release the cyclic but don't expect it to be locked solid it will drift in the wind a little. If the rotor disc is moving far away from the horizontal when you introduced gain then something is definately not right. The heli will drift but should not 'bank'.

Regards

Fergus

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
12-02-2007 07:46 PM  9 years agoPost 5
fergus

rrKey Veteran

Ireland

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Just another thought:

Have you the sensor mounted in an X across the boom with the sensors offset at 45deg as opposed to + with the sensors in line with the boom. If its the later then the mast could be obstructing a sensor causing the swash to tilt aft. Also ensure the correct Ir setting in the ap2000i menu.

Regards

Fergus

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
12-02-2007 09:31 PM  9 years agoPost 6
talk the torque

rrApprentice

SA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Hey there.

I dont agree that you must hold the heli steady with a cyclic input, otherwise when you finished calibrating and add gain you will have to hold that same input to replicate where it was calibrated. I tried this many times and it never worked. As soon as I trimmed the heli to hover hands off and also made sure I didnt make any inputs when the calibration was taking place I have had no further major drift problems. This is how I understood it to be, when I was having the same problem, from the comments posted.

Jason

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
12-02-2007 11:23 PM  9 years agoPost 7
Hogster

rrKey Veteran

Surrey, UK

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

I thought the same but didn't want to mention it in case I was wrong

From what I've heard from others, you mustn't touch the cyclic stick when you calibrate, otherwise, as Jason said, you will have to hold the cyclic stick in THAT POSITION forever afterwards if you want the heli to hover hands off. Instead use the trims to get the heli hovering hands off BEFORE you calibrate.

Cheers,

David

PM  EMAIL  HOMEPAGE  Attn:RR  Quote
12-02-2007 11:52 PM  9 years agoPost 8
Autoeject

rrKey Veteran

Ashtabula, OH, USA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

In either case, when the calibration is being performed the AP2000i is not saving the stick postion. Rather, it is recording an offset value from the default center reading of the IR sensor. The AP2000i will then use this value to return the heli to your calibrated level position.

Mark Webber
wai-rc.com
Spartan RC Distributor
Outrage Helicopters

PM  EMAIL  HOMEPAGE  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
12-03-2007 12:24 AM  9 years agoPost 9
wild1957

rrApprentice

Malaysia

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

For what it is worth,

I recently fitted the AP2000i to my Hirobo freya and during the learning curve and many emails between myself and Mark Webber I realized that the easiest solution for me was not to have it set so I could go from on to off whilst in flight as you would expect. I in fact did the following steps, Calibrate the heli to a near perfect hover with out the AP2000i, then I went to cal in the air in as perfect a hover as I could achieve, I then landed and switched on the AP2000i and took off again. I then found it drifted a little both to the right and backwards in this case. This meant my hover and cal had not been perfect but rather than re-cal as I had done so many many times already I proceeded to counter the drift in flight with the in flight trim adjustments on the face of the radio this then gave me a perfect stable hover that I was very comfortable with. The gain setting for the AP2000i is set at 50%. I now have 2 settings for my heli on the radio, model 1 is without AP 2000i and the model 2 is with the AP2000i. This means if I am sport flying I go to model one and do not use at all the AP 2000i, then if I am working taking aerial photographs I fly in the model 2 mode which had the AP set to on all the time from take off to landing. This is perfect for me I have to slightly adjust the in flight trims a little at each location depending on where and what time I am working but this is simply not much more than one click out in what ever direction, then away you go perfect stability

I hope that this has been of some value for you, but one thing is for certain once it is fitted and set up which ever way you want to fly you will find it is an awesome tool.

Stephen

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
12-03-2007 01:35 AM  9 years agoPost 10
fergus

rrKey Veteran

Ireland

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

As Mark has confirmed holding the cyclic instead of trims does work for calibration guys.

Regards

Fergus

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
12-03-2007 10:32 AM  9 years agoPost 11
Autoeject

rrKey Veteran

Ashtabula, OH, USA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Most importantly, as Stephen said, do what works best for you.

Mark Webber
wai-rc.com
Spartan RC Distributor
Outrage Helicopters

PM  EMAIL  HOMEPAGE  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
12-03-2007 10:44 AM  9 years agoPost 12
KarbonBird

rrKey Veteran

Australia

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Thanks all for this feedback - I moved the AP from an existing heli so I will go through the process again as per the steps and see where I went wrong...

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
12-03-2007 05:26 PM  9 years agoPost 13
AceBird

rrElite Veteran

Utica, NY USA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

In either case, when the calibration is being performed the AP2000i is not saving the stick postion.
The issue with using your sticks is that you cannot fly in a stabilized mode to set the calibration. So if you are not very good at holding the heli stationary with out moving the sticks then the APi could be reading a value from the sensor when it is tipped off the horizon. Using the trim buttons insures that you are not gyrating the sensor’s attitude when the value is read.

If you like to calibrate all the time then you will like using the sticks because it is quicker but if you only intend on calibrating once then the trim buttons would be a better choice.

If you use a flight mode instead of a model memory you can change from stabilized flight to non stabilized flight without landing.

Ace
What could be more fun?

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
12-03-2007 06:01 PM  9 years agoPost 14
heliwild

rrNovice

Georgetown, Kentucky

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

If you use a flight mode instead of a model memory you can change from stabilized flight to non stabilized flight without landing.
That sounds like a good idea.

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
WATCH
 1 page 672 views POST REPLY
Scorpion Power Scorpion Power
 Print TOPIC  Make Suggestion 

 6  Topic Subscribe

Wednesday, October 18 - 6:31 am - Copyright © 2000-2017 RunRyder   EMAILEnable Cookies

Login Here
 New Subscriptions 
 Buddies Online