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HelicopterScale Model RC Helicopters › Century/Funkey Hughes 500MD on aTREX 600
12-01-2007 05:31 PM  9 years agoPost 1
coptercptn

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Mesa AZ. USA

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I just got my Fuselage from Century and am starting the build.
I am going to do a Photo essay on the build. I would like to call this a "How to" article..but as it goes along there may be a few "How NOT to's" in there.. All in all I think it should go well..and my goal here, is to help anyone out there wanting to do this project. Or something similar..If any of you have any suggestions, hints,etc. feel free to jump in here..

The Main Components are:
Mechanics- TREX 600CF. stock motor, esc. GY611 w/9256 Air Thunder 6s 5000MA.
Fuselage- Funkey 500MD Tow Defender, unpainted version from Century.

First look out of the box is impressive! This thing is big. The packaging is very good, with the components sealed in separate plastic bags.
Of course the immediate response is to get everything out stick it together and do a quick dream.....
That done, time to open the instruction booklet and read...even the booklet is in a plastic bag!
I will say on the first read through there are a few things that are confusing but they clear up as you go along....the pictures could be a bit clearer..but then we all should be used to this, with the nature of RC helicopter kits.
But, on with the build...

First page first pictures..I'm lost!! Pic shows front shot of Fuse where the nose joins with a bunch of "A's" and "B"s" stratigically placed around the perimeter..and says "Glue 4 pcs. of 3x10x16MM plywood and drill 3MM holes at B.

OK, So I'm an old stick and paper guy and I'm thinking this is a pre-fabricated former to be glued in for support behind where the two halves of the Fuse join. So, I'm searching thruogh all the parts bags and can't find these pieces!!
RTFB!!!! (Read the #$%&^&* Book!!) Me, like a dummy, didn't catch the dimensions of the pieces!!! 10x16MM by 3mm thick!!! these are small blocks of wood that simply support the screws they want you to join the halves with.
After that waste of about an hour, I decided that I wasn't going to join the fuse that way anyway, so I would leave that work till later in the build.. (I want to be able to take the nose off for battery replacement and plug in.)

So..the next step is the Launcher supports for the rocket tubes..
I'm not entirely sure I am going with Rockets for armament, but what ever I use will still need these supports so I decided to put them on. Pretty straight forward stuff here 4 screws, no biggy.

The next few steps relate to detail parts such as lights (fake) ant. etc. I am going to install real lighting with LED's and I didn't want to ruin other detail stuff while the paint process is going on, so I skipped over all this part.

The Tail fin is next. Now this kit is designed for a gasser mechanics..specifically Sceadu,Raptor,and Century. So all the templates are made for these. To mount the tail fin I compared it to the Trex unit lining up the center of the "V's" with the two parts.
I discovered that one of the lower holes for the Gasser mechaincs lines up. I drilled this one out and the put a bolt through it. With this in place it simply required a quick line up with the two fins and I drilled the other hole using the Trex part as a jig. I then mounted it on the Rex and it looks great!

I guess I should mention here that I have opted to have the TR on the "correct" side of the boom. We have had a lot of discussion here on another thread about this and I have experimented with it and have it working just fine. I have , however decided not to use the Torque tube drive as it causes the TR to rotate in the wrong direction (in my line of thinking) so I am going to replace it with the stock belt drive.

The next step is the skid assembly. Not a lot of work here, real similar to the stock TREX build except...you mount the supports inside the fuse with socket head self tappers. Now, the front two are a piece of cake. But the back two...well let's just say you neeed a pair of "Chinese Fingers" to get the wrench in there to tighten them down!!! There is just no room!! I took a comfortable chair and watched some TV while I turned the screws with an allen wrench 1/8 turn at a time..

As I noted above, I purchased the unpainted version. I didn't want the "Army" paint job (Ex-Marine pilot here) and couldn't see paying all that extra money and then just sanding it off!!!

So, the first work is filling the parting/assembly lines and sanding /shaping the parts. I started with 150 grit paper and scuffed it all down to eliminate any high spots. Then I went over any imperfections with a product called "Squadren Green" putty. This product is readily available at hobby shops and does a great job as a filler.
I will say the overall finish/assembly of the fiberglass is quite good. The details are crisp, and the joints really don't take a lot of work to get smooth.

The next thing I decided to do was measure the two components and see how I was going to make them fit. (Mechanics and Fuselage)
The instructions give you pages on adapting the three mechanics they recommend so I had a place to start. From previous builds I have learned that the tailboom is always the most important part to get fitted right.So I started with the cutout at the head on the fuse and measured to the end of the boom this gave me 29"s.

Next I measured from the head on the Rex to the TR.
amazingly.....29"s!!!!

Now these are rough measurments but...it sure looks like all I will have to do is some minor trimming to make this work!

Next up is the TR Servo. I said before I want the TR on the "correct" side and this required flipping to gearbox etc. Well to make the servo work I had to mount it upside down on the boom.

Now..to see if it would work there.
Again I measured from the head back to the servo. About 9"S..

And now the "Doghouse" on the fuse: About 81/2"s


Wow! this might just work!! I have enough room on the tail boom to move the servo forward so all I should have to do is make up a new linkage rod. Could this really be this easy? Probably not..but time will tell..

well That's all for today..I am heading back down to the shop and start trying to fit things..till next time I hope you enjoy this.

Home of the "Sea Cobra".....

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12-02-2007 08:56 PM  9 years agoPost 2
coptercptn

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Mesa AZ. USA

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The Mecahnics are in...well sort of.

I still have the TR linkage and a few trim issues I will discuss later...but first to how this works.
I decided to make the tail section removable. I did this on my Huey and it really proved to be worthwhile as far as maintenance.. It also allows me to adjust the tail (fuselage)without removing the rest of the Fuse.


Then on to the mounts:
The main floor mounts in the kit are provided for the Gassers,as I mentioned earlier in the post...this proved to be very handy. With the large assortment of hardware provided it was just a matter of positioning (Trial and error) the mechanics in the fuse and measuring/fitting the shims/spacers etc.

First I blocked the tail into a position that leveled the head and the Tail Boom in the fuse

Then I sorted through the hardware provided and discovered that the nice aluminum spacers provided for the Century mechainics would work with some alterations. There is also a plywood mount for the Raptor mechanics that spans the floor area. The problem with the TREX mechanism is that is is too narrow. This piece fills that void nicely. And the metal spacer block sets the height, although you need to trim it to 1/2" (You metric guys will have to convert this!..Sorry) I simply ran it on my stationary belt sander in a homemade squaring jig.

I used this setup, as you can see, for the rear mounts. There is only one of the plywood pieces provided, and the front mount requires a little different arrangement anyway.

On to the front mount...
This needs to span the open area in both sideways and fore-aft. so I elected just to make a single spacer to do both. I had, on hand, some really neat material called "expanded polystyrene". Is is cool stuff in that you can drill it,tap it, and it is somewhat flexible, but yet sturdy. Unfortunatly it was just a little short on thickness.
The Kit came to the rescue again!!! Remember those 3x10x16MM pieces that gave me fits in the beginning of the build? It turns out they are just perfect for this!!!
I epoxied one to each side using the original mounting holes provided in the floor and then drilled the spacer to fit the Align frame and the floor. All that is left is to follow the kit instructions and drill out to the proper size the floor mounts and glue in the nuts and their mounts. Install the bolts from the top side..Done!

All that is left now is the upper fuse mounts...
Again, amazingly, the stock kit parts work!! are you guys at Century/Funkey reading this..?
You have to trim the right hand aluminum bracket (servo side) to clear the servo mount , then you use the lower servo mounting hole.
This comes really close to using the bolt holes provided..but,
Remember the "Chinese fingers"? I chose not to try and fit my fingers behind the bulkhead for a nut and bolt mount. To the rescue...those elusive little 3x10x16MM blocks!!! I epoxied one to each side and installed a #4x3/4 pan head screw to the mount. Done deal! the mechanism is in.

Clearance issues.....
No..this isn't a sale at Sears...this is where the problems with linkage etc. arise, and how I have chosen to handle them.

First...the antirotation bracket. In order to get the mechanism far enough back in the Fuse for the tail clearance (and so the rotor head fits somewhat scale like) you have to notch the dog house. I still need to open this up a it more so there is no binding on the swashplate . I am considering building a small "bubble" to cover this later.

Next is the Servo linkage on the front end of the frame..This is very minor. A little trimming around the edge where the front half will be mated to the main body. This will also need to be trimmed on the font section.

And finally, as far as the main body goes, there is an issue with the linkage to the swashplate...At full collective, the upper linkage contacts the body...I have elected to open up the area of the doghouse to cure this. I think if you do it uniformly it will not be that noticable. But I see no alternative unless someone makes a smaller diameter swash?? I am considering installing the "Raptor 50" head on this because of the high flybar. This has been discussed on some other threads and until I get it all assmbled and actually see the clearance I have yet to make up my mind. Right now as I view the Flybar to doghouse clearance it really doesn't look that bad...

The last item is the TR Servo..
I did have to move it forward to get it inside the fuse. Not a real chore. I had to modify the Align mount (Trim) to use one of the upper Frame bolts. And, then I sandwiched the other servo mount hole into the boom mount to line it all up. I think all I will have to do from here is to make a longer throw rod for the tail.

That's it in a nutshell..two evenings work and you too can do this!!!

Next time..TR and Boom..and maybe some detailing.

Home of the "Sea Cobra".....

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12-03-2007 05:10 PM  9 years agoPost 3
coptercptnrrElite Veteran - Mesa AZ. USA - My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

A couple of quick progress shots More details later..I hope you guys are enjoying this...

Home of the "Sea Cobra".....

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12-03-2007 05:15 PM  9 years agoPost 4
rcadd1ct

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Richardson, Texas

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Cool build.

Since this is electric you can flip the auto bearing in the hub and run the motor in the other direction.

This will get the tail turning into the mains and you will have the correct main rotor rotation.

-RCA .......... Making Cuisinarts Fly!!!!!!!

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12-03-2007 05:21 PM  9 years agoPost 5
coptercptn

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Mesa AZ. USA

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If you look closley the tail IS turning into the mains...All you have to do is twist the belt the other way...I didn't want to chage head direction and open another bag of worms. (I know this setup flys well.)

Home of the "Sea Cobra".....

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12-03-2007 06:39 PM  9 years agoPost 6
rcadd1ct

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Richardson, Texas

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Cool.

Just giving you options if you wanted to put the TT back in.

-RCA .......... Making Cuisinarts Fly!!!!!!!

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12-03-2007 08:15 PM  9 years agoPost 7
coptercptn

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Mesa AZ. USA

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yes I weighed that option but again I know this set-up flys well so I opted to leave the direction of the main head as it is. Maybe on the next one...

Home of the "Sea Cobra".....

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12-03-2007 09:29 PM  9 years agoPost 8
genovia

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N UR NECK OF DA WOODS

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Nice write up, every informative.

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12-04-2007 11:38 PM  9 years agoPost 9
Nyman

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Sweden, Malmö

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very nice... me like alot...

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12-05-2007 04:10 PM  9 years agoPost 10
coptercptnrrElite Veteran - Mesa AZ. USA - My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

On with the build....
OK folks, as promised, Here is the next installment.

Today we are attacking the tail rotor issue and boom mounting.
This turned out not to be that hard . Although, I have to warn you, assembly is going to be a little tricky.

First I'll discuss the boom issues...
With the scale fuse, you lose the boom supports. So, you have to provide some kind of reinforcement for the tail. The Kit provides you with a handy foam "Doughnut" that slips over the boom and then gets squeezed into the end of the Fuse at the tail.

This works great for support.."IF"..you leave the fuse in one piece!
I didn't. As you may recall, in the earlier steps, I elected to cut the fuse at the boom and make it into two sections for an easier assembly. (In retrospect I don't really see how you could do it any other way.) So, to give the Fuselage its support back, I put in a couple of plywood bulkheads and a sleeve to join the two pieces:

This sleeve fits inside the main body and is secured with 4 small screws. Once in place the boom is rock solid.

One more item: the fuse is a bit too long for the Mechanics. And as it turned out, it is the same as the TT Raptor because I ended up cutting off the same amount they instruct you to in the Raptor build section...(38MM). (that one is for you MM guys!!)

Next is the servo linkage.
The stock Align (Trex) linkage is a solid rod supported by stand offs that wrap around the boom. This works great but takes up too much room. To get the linkage in tight against the boom, for the fuse to fit properly, I opted for an old standby from "Plank" days. It's a product from Sullivan Industries called "Golden Rods". These handy push/pulls can be routed all over the place..They can be cut,spliced,twisted, etc. to your hearts desire and still work smooth as silk. I made two offsets out of the original steel linkage rod and threaded the ends for 2-56 thread. This allowed me to mount the Golden rod snug against the boom.

All that was left was to adjust the length and cut the Golden rod section to fit. One word of caution here...you have to support the casing so it can NOT move! especially on the ends. otherwise you will create flex in the linkage and that would be BAD!! I used a generous supply of tie wraps and there is no movement. I suppose if you wanted to, you could add a few drops of "CA" but I don't think that will be neccesary.
All that is left now is to adjust the Belt. and install the body.

This is the tricky part:
Once the main fuse is on the Mechanics, you can no longer get at the screws, for the boom, to adjust the belt tension. So,this has to all be done before you mount the main body.
To assemble the tail piece, you have to pull off the TR gearbox, (carefully, do not lose the belt configuration), slip the Foam "Doughnut" over the boom, and slide the tail piece on guiding the servo linkage through the cut out in the "Doughnut". Then re-assemble the gearbox on the boom and attach the linkage rod.

Ahhhh..I did leave out one tiny item...you need to slot the tail piece to allow the linkage rod access over the gearbox. This also allows you to line up the slot in the doughnut. you can see it here:

Whew! sounds like a lot, but it isn't too bad you just have to take your time.

Here is where I will add a small input for you folks that want to place the TR on the left side of the boom.

You can elect to reverse the motor direction (as rcadd1ct pointed out) and therefore keep the TR turning into the main blades. This way you can still use the Torque Tube (and save all that messing around with the belt tension etc.)
Or You can use the Belt drive and "flip" it to the other side..

This requires one thing...
In order to have an adjustment for the belt, Align has provided a slot at the front of the boom where it mates with the main frame

This allows the boom to slide in and out for tension and still keep the TR aligned. On the other end of the boom is a locater hole that matches up with a pin built into the TR gearbox.

If you want to "Flip" the gearbox (as I did) then you have to drill another hole oposite this one so the gearbox will lock into it as before. This is not "Rocket Science"..Just put it in the drill press and locate it straight across. Use the original hole as a pilot and drill.

You folks not wanting to go to all this work can skip all this and keep the TR on the right hand side. But I think if we are trying to stay "Scale".. or at least close to it, this adds a nice touch.

The last thing I will address here are those "Clearance issues" As you may remember from the beginning of the build there were a few problems with the amount of room at the swashplate and linkages near the "doghouse"..
Here are a few last shots of the finished product with all the trimming done.
The Doghouse issue is really not noticable even though I did trim quite a bit from the front and sides. Just try to keep it uniform from the back. The anti-rotation bracket I can live with. ( I still may build a small "bubble" to cover this)

There you have it..A Century/Funkey Fuse in a TREX600!!!!

I hope you found it informative and entertaining? and encourages a few to try it. Again this is how I did it...you may have better easier methods..but for me. It Works. please feel free to comment.
(I was a Marine Pilot and have thick skin!!):

Next is painting/detailing...

Home of the "Sea Cobra".....

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12-06-2007 03:44 PM  9 years agoPost 11
coptercptnrrElite Veteran - Mesa AZ. USA - My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Another day, and a lot more coffee....
Yesterday I managed to get the fuse all sanded and primed.

I had decided to go with a different scheme than most would think for this kind of heli..I didn't want to go with the military version so I looked around and thanks to a few great folks here on RR, (OU812 & Darthdrk.. Thanks Guys!!),I found a site that gave me what I was looking for...

http://www.alea.org/PhotoGallery/
This is going to be a Modern day Police S.W.A.T chopper.
I am going to outfit it with mini guns and search lights in leu of the rocket pods. and give it a brighter look. (San Diego Sheriffs Police)

After a few hours work last night, I striped and painted two of the colors on the sides.
Today I finished the main body colors...


Next, Exterior lighting, A few Graphics, and details...and of course I have to build those mini guns.
Anyone got a good pic of one? like on a Huey?

Home of the "Sea Cobra".....

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12-06-2007 07:57 PM  9 years agoPost 12
MadDogDan

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Loganville, GA

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If you are looking for a source of dry transfer graphics you should talk to Callie at Calligraphics.com She did some for me real cheap ($20 for six decals) and worked off pictures I sent her from the internet. I went with a SWAT design as well. I will remove the pictures of my SWAT bird if you feel it interfeers with your thread.

MadDog

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12-06-2007 09:41 PM  9 years agoPost 13
coptercptn

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Mesa AZ. USA

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Thanks MadDog
I have a local graphic person here that does that sort of thing for me also..but I may get in touch with Callie also...

thanks ..Good lookin bird you have there...

Home of the "Sea Cobra".....

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12-07-2007 02:51 PM  9 years agoPost 14
IanA

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Leighton Buzzard, Bedfordshire, UK

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Hi,
here are a couple of pics you might be able to use for the minigun

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12-07-2007 03:20 PM  9 years agoPost 15
coptercptnrrElite Veteran - Mesa AZ. USA - My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Let's go flyin'!!!!!!!
I did a spool up today and all systems are go...I have a few windows to finish and the lettering/graphics to put on but other than that...I could fly it today..
Oh, wait....we're having a snow storm and just got about 8"s dumped on us!!!!!!!!!!!
Oh well, there is a winter (indoor) fun fly coming soon...

I hope you all have enjoyed this build and found it informative...
I will continue to update it as I add things to the model...
Future plans include:
Armament/Floodlights on the pods. (thanks IAN I like that drawing)
5 bladed head. (Century or "OF" ) with helimixer.
Functioning (rotating) forward turret
Interior cockpit detail w/pilot

Now I have to unpack a present "Uncle UPS driver" delivered yesterday for the next project.
A Century .60 size Huey.
Thinking maybe ION Mechanics to fly this, with 10s packs..

Home of the "Sea Cobra".....

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12-07-2007 04:16 PM  9 years agoPost 16
rcadd1ct

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Richardson, Texas

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Might I suggest the Century head.

The OF is awesome, but it will dwarf the heli.

-RCA .......... Making Cuisinarts Fly!!!!!!!

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12-07-2007 06:36 PM  9 years agoPost 17
coptercptn

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Mesa AZ. USA

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That's what I was afraid of rcaddict. that it would be too big for the scale...I'm thinking I have to see one and judge it ...
The other option is the head offered over at DeeTee for their build.
It looks pretty nice flying..But then again they crashed it and I don't know if the head had anything to do with that!

More research!!

Home of the "Sea Cobra".....

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12-07-2007 07:25 PM  9 years agoPost 18
rcadd1ct

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Richardson, Texas

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Blade bolt to blade bolt on the OF head is 10" on my two bladed model.

-RCA .......... Making Cuisinarts Fly!!!!!!!

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12-07-2007 08:53 PM  9 years agoPost 19
coptercptn

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Mesa AZ. USA

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yeah that is big eh....I checked on the DeeTee site for the one they used on their project 600 and it was the century head.. but they had to modify it.

Home of the "Sea Cobra".....

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12-07-2007 10:27 PM  9 years agoPost 20
slider46

rrProfessor

Ocala Florida

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Great looking job on the heli and very informative build thread.. I'm hoping to get a 600 this winter and can use this info if it all happens like I plan....

Tom..... No "D" flying....

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