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HelicopterBeginners Corner › Main Rotor Blades
11-30-2007 07:48 AM  9 years agoPost 1
jrett

rrApprentice

san jose, ca.

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On a .50 size nitro heli, what is a good rpm range that wooden blades can handle?

Now suppose you want to upgrade your blades so you can turn up the rpm a little, but you still want your blades to break away rather than break the rest of your heli, what would be a good blade type for that?

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11-30-2007 08:49 AM  9 years agoPost 2
HotsHabit

rrVeteran

Idaho

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Wood blades shouldn't be turned faster than 1700 rpm.
Now suppose you want to upgrade your blades so you can turn up the rpm a little, but you still want your blades to break away rather than break the rest of your heli, what would be a good blade type for that?
More often than not, if you break a blade (wood or otherwise) the chances are very good you broke or bent something else. As far as upgrades past the woodies you can go either fiberglass or carbon fibers, fiberglass being the cheaper of the two.

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11-30-2007 11:22 AM  9 years agoPost 3
DJDAZ

rrVeteran

Perth Western Australia

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Wood blades, fibreglass or carbon - when you smack a blade on the ground at these kind of RPM it's generally not going to survive.

I have never flown woodies, always been fibreglass or carbons - pre balanced and no chance of the things ripping themselves off the rotorhead like the tree produced blades!

If you don't want to spend the big $ on Radix, Rotortech or V's then look for some Funkey 600 fibreglass or similar. They are only a third the price of the big name carbons and will serve you well into mild 3D.

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11-30-2007 01:32 PM  9 years agoPost 4
SSN Pru

rrElite Veteran

Taxachusetts

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when you smack a blade into the ground, it invariably, will not absorb all of the impact energy. It'll transfer a good amount into the head and frame while breaking...

Stupidity can be cured. Ignorance is for life!

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11-30-2007 04:36 PM  9 years agoPost 5
Jag72

rrProfessor

South of Boston

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Woodies...

I think most people assume that using expensive carbon Blades will make them fly better...

Not the case usually...blades are but a small part of flying...90% is skill and the rest is setup and equipment.

Wooden blades are perfectly fine for light aerobtics and most flying. 2000 rpms and under are fine...I have been using woodies on my practice machines for quite some time...in fact I can spin 2100 on my logo 10 and do funnels, piro flips, tic tocs, hurricanes, death spirals, etc...all with Woodies...

if you are gentle on the collective the woodies are fine in most cases...if you don't mind spending the money get carbons.. you should spend money in the more critical places like crash parts, batteries or fuel.. I think it's a better investement than fancy blades that your skill level doesn't require. If you're just hovering or learning why fly carbons

I know for me it's a lot less stressful to fly my practice machine knowing that if I DOINK it the blades cost me 15$ not 75$ or 100$

I have over 150 flights on my logo 10 with woodies and have yet to have one snap in flight

I wouldn't fly woodies though if you think it will reduce damage...like the others said...it doesn't matter what you're using for blades...hit the dirt and it's OVER..

Of course I have eaten dirt quite a few times ...

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12-02-2007 10:50 AM  9 years agoPost 6
jrett

rrApprentice

san jose, ca.

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I have been using wooden blades, and I have crashed plenty of times. Every time I have to replace some components other than the blades, that is granted.
The thing that most of you are failing to take into consideration is that wooden blades will break away easier than tougher blades such as carbon. The theory here is that most of the kinetic energy is obsobed by the wooden blades in a crash and you'll generally have less repairs to the rest of your heli than if you used stonger blades.
In other words, if I crash with wooden blades, then I'll spend less money to repair the rest of the heli than if I crashed with carbon blades as more of the kinetic energy from the carbon blades would be transfered to the rest of the heli.
I guess I thought this was obvious. I was just wondering if someone had some more thoughts along these lines so that I could crank up the head speed to about 2100 or so and still have some of the break away benefit of the wooden blades.
This all follows the theory of a chain is only as strong as its weakest link. Engeneering a weak spot so to speak.
Anyway. Thanks.

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12-02-2007 12:43 PM  9 years agoPost 7
BarracudaHockey

rrMaster

Jacksonville FL

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If you increase the head speed to 2100 with wood blades you will have the benefit of breakaway blades. Unfortunately it will be inflight.

Scotty..."Shields or weapons captain we don't have full power for both" meaning everything is a trade off. Carbons are stiffer, track better, more efficent, and auto better and you dont have to spend half a day trying to balance and track them. In exchange they are more expensive and can possibly damage more in a crash.

Andy
AMA 77227
http://www.jaxrc.com

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12-03-2007 09:25 PM  9 years agoPost 8
jrett

rrApprentice

san jose, ca.

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Yeah, exactly... That is exactly why I'm asking about this.

I guess what I'm looking for is a type of blade that is stronger than wood, but only strong enough to withstand the higher head speed, as I'd still like it to break away fairly easily so that the rest of my heli doesn't suffer as much.

I think that carbon are the grand puh bah of heli blades and are like kryptonight in a crash, basically trashing everything but themselves.

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12-03-2007 09:29 PM  9 years agoPost 9
HotsHabit

rrVeteran

Idaho

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Duh. That is exactly why I'm asking about this.
Duh? Whats the Duh comment for?

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12-03-2007 09:35 PM  9 years agoPost 10
jrett

rrApprentice

san jose, ca.

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duh [ də ]

interjection

Definition:

1. ironic response: said as an ironic response to being told something obvious or well known
"Billy asked me to the party, I think he really likes me!" - "Duh!"

2. humorous expression of stupidity: used in humorous acknowledgment of your own stupidity
"What did you do with the keys?" - "Duh."

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12-03-2007 09:59 PM  9 years agoPost 11
HotsHabit

rrVeteran

Idaho

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Barracuda told it like it is, same thing basically that I told you.

You are looking for the magic blades that don't exist. Carbons are NOT like kryptonite and they do break, they just fly the best out of anything we have at this time.

Go ahead and crank your woodies up to 2100 rpm and see what happens, just make sure you are alone when you do it. Fiberglass is the next strongest and then carbon fibers. There are no magic blades that fly great at 2100 rpm and also 3d great but will break away very easily when you crash.

If you are concerned about what else is going to break or bend when you hit the ground then either quit crashing or quit flying, its that simple.

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12-03-2007 10:11 PM  9 years agoPost 12
Jag72

rrProfessor

South of Boston

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Blades...

Go ahead and crank your woodies up to 2100 rpm and see what happens
The fly just fine for me

I have been running my logo 10 on 500 woodies all year and have yet to have one fly apart in flight yet. I am flying mine at over 2100rpms

I wouldn't recommend this for a heavy machine but on my 5 1/2lb logo 10 2100RPMS on woodies is JUST FINE...

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12-03-2007 10:31 PM  9 years agoPost 13
jrett

rrApprentice

san jose, ca.

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I don't know why you keep sarcastically suggesting that I crank my woodies up beyond 1700 rpm. The entire point of this discussion is based on the fact that I realize anything above 1700 rpm is dangerouse and that I am looking for a set of blades that CAN HANDLE it.

However, I want a compromise so that my blades aren't the toughest around. I still want them to break fairly easily in the event of a crash.

And to the guy who says he does set his head speed to 2100+ using woodies... I'm talking about 600mm blades. You try the 2100 with 600mm blades and see how long they last.

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12-03-2007 10:36 PM  9 years agoPost 14
HotsHabit

rrVeteran

Idaho

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600mm blades come in 3 different materials. WOOD, FIBERGLASS, and CARBON FIBER.

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12-03-2007 10:39 PM  9 years agoPost 15
jrett

rrApprentice

san jose, ca.

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To Barracude and Hots,

If you read my original post carefully, you'll realize that I understand the limitations of wooden blades. I am not disputing or arguing about the fact that wooden blades should not be run above 1700 rpm. I'm not suggesting that I will be running wooden blades at that speed, nor am I considering it.

What I am trying to find out is what is a good blade for 2100 rpm. What I mean by good blade is one that can handle 2100 rpm, but still break fairly easily in the event of a crash, like the woodies do.

To me, the carbon blades are not the blades I'm looking for and here is why. They are too strong and too expensive. I'm looking for a good balance in strength. Not to strong (carbon) not too weak (wood).

The whole point of this topic is to talk about an alternate blade type, one that is stronger than wood, but just enough to withstand 2100 rpm, or so.

I hope this message cleared up any confusion.

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12-03-2007 10:42 PM  9 years agoPost 16
jrett

rrApprentice

san jose, ca.

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[quote]
Wow. Nice bold letters. I can do that too.

Thanks for pointing that. So, how do the three types compare strength wise?

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12-03-2007 10:51 PM  9 years agoPost 17
HotsHabit

rrVeteran

Idaho

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OK, this is a process of elimination then. Woods are not going to work for you, you do not want to run carbon fibers. That leaves Fiberglass.

I stated all that you would need to know in the first post I made on this topic. I just dont understand what else you want, besides a magic blade that spins at 2100 safely but breaks away as easily as wood in a crash, that blade does NOT exist.

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12-04-2007 01:58 AM  9 years agoPost 18
jrett

rrApprentice

san jose, ca.

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Wow, you really have some kind of chip on your shoulder. Fine then. Here's your first post...

More often than not, if you break a blade (wood or otherwise) the chances are very good you broke or bent something else. As far as upgrades past the woodies you can go either fiberglass or carbon fibers, fiberglass being the cheaper of the two.

As you can see there, you don't tell me EVERYTHING I want to know. For example, you didn't mention anything about the strength difference between fiberglass and carbon.

Am I supposed to stop posting because you think that I'm done?

You seem to be taking this thread way too personally. The last time I checked, this isn't your personal email. Don't respond if you're just going to have a negative attitude.

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12-04-2007 02:00 AM  9 years agoPost 19
jrett

rrApprentice

san jose, ca.

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And I really don't understand how you can't figure out what I want? Isn't english clear enough for you? I mean, I wrote a very simple question in my previous post.

I'll repeat it here for the slower fellas.
So, how do the three types compare strength wise?

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12-04-2007 02:13 AM  9 years agoPost 20
HotsHabit

rrVeteran

Idaho

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Strength and price of the blades is as follows:

1. Woods, cheapest and weakest.

2. Fiberglass, the middle of the road, stronger than wood but weaker than Carbons. More expensive than wood but cheaper than carbons.

3. Carbon Fiber, stronger than wood or fiberglass and also more expensive than wood or fiberglass.

No I don't have a chip on my shoulder, and I didn't get an attitute about it until you told baracuda "DUH" to his post, and then edited it after I quoted you on it.

If you need help then this is the place. There are a lot of very smart and informative pilots on this forum, but start catching an attitute and it will be returned.

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