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HelicopterMain Discussion › Ouch!! My R90SE crashed due to male/female battery connector...
11-30-2007 12:04 AM  9 years agoPost 1
AH-1 pilot

rrKey Veteran

Tampa, Florida

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I was out at the club the other day and and while in 30 foot hover I lost control..heli banked hard left and backwards, smacked the ground tail first. Post flight revealed that my duralite battery connector male/female plug...while it was still connected, even with electrical tape, had a poor connection. When I would squeeze the connector, the power would turn on..then off. I took the tape off and was amazed how easily the plugs would pull apart. It felt as if the female fittings on one plug were not snug anymore...I think I could have flicked the connector with my finger and the two plugs would have easily separated...so, lesson learned, is..even if you have a plastic keeper..string or tape, to hold the connector together,you still may loose the electricity flow or have intermittent contact as a result of female connector pins enlarging, which prevented a good connection.

*I also had to run to my left to avoid getting wacked by my own bird!!

Had to replace Blades, Boom, drive shaft, flybar, spindle, T/R gear box, boom supports, Main grip Post..both bent(the little post that the pitch control rod connects to)..also the horizontal stab and the T/R ..long control rod..toast! All is back together now, but waiting on the post and T/R control rod.

Michael

But...it's all good!!

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11-30-2007 12:07 AM  9 years agoPost 2
montarok

rrKey Veteran

Brooklyn, NY

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Pictures Michael...sorry to hear about the crash though...

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www.carifuna.com

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11-30-2007 12:16 AM  9 years agoPost 3
captb

rrApprentice

Arizona Desert

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Sorry to hear that, I've had the same thing but was lucky I have two batts and 2 switches so it never lost batt power, the connector even looked good but no continuity and we don't have corrosion here. The only 100% reliable connection is solder. captb

If it's gonna happen it'll happen up there!

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11-30-2007 12:26 AM  9 years agoPost 4
AH-1 pilot

rrKey Veteran

Tampa, Florida

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Ref: "have pictures'

Montarok...

You sadistic son of a beech nut....lol

No, I actually didn't take pictures of the mess, but when it came down,I had to run to my left to avoid being hit..then it sound like this...CRUNCH>>>fwap..batty..ttatdy wackk

Michael

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11-30-2007 12:36 AM  9 years agoPost 5
montarok

rrKey Veteran

Brooklyn, NY

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Run? Did you run as fast as I did when my raptor 50 chased me?

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11-30-2007 01:18 AM  9 years agoPost 6
Yug

rrMaster

UK. Herts

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What a bummer, sorry about your crash. Sounds like you were using the standard Futaba/JR style connectors. DON'T, cos they are way to underrated both mechanically and electrically. They also suffer substantial voltage drop as does standard cabling when using all digitals which can pose significant problems elsewhere.
When using deans and high current (19A) finestrand cable for my power setup along with dual power to the rx, voltage drops were reduced by a massive margin.

Vegetable rights and Peace

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11-30-2007 02:11 AM  9 years agoPost 7
Wyn

rrApprentice

Oregon, USA

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Bummer, sorry to hear that. For me, the only thing worse would be not knowing what happened (of course, not being able to outrun the heli wouldn't exactly make my day either ). Seen the intermittent resistance that varies by wiggling the R/C connector too, similar to yours. Maybe it's from vibes, or wear & tear from disconnecting them every so often. Replaced all my R/C connectors from batteries with powerpoles (deans are good too). Less voltage drop, but still need to keep an eye on them, nothing lasts forever.

Side note on soldered connectors/wire. Vibes can break a soldered joint if it's not heavily strain relieved. One layer of thin shrink tube doesn't do it for me anymore, there's heavy shrink with some adhesive inside that's stiffer. With powerpoles (sermos) I crimp (without soldering), plus add heat shrink for a strain relief where the wire is crimped.

Wyn
VoltMagic

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11-30-2007 02:49 AM  9 years agoPost 8
ripmax

rrNovice

Indiana

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"It felt as if the female fittings (on one plug) were not snug anymore"

there is a life lesson here... i think

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11-30-2007 05:11 AM  9 years agoPost 9
hindsight

rrVeteran

Texas..

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some one take a picture

Can I see a picture or a link to the safest types of wire connectors to prevent this problem... Educate me

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11-30-2007 05:29 AM  9 years agoPost 10
aerton

rrVeteran

Longueuil, QC, Canada

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Connectors always concern me.
Even the ones that go to receiver.
Before flight I routinely check them and plug them some more.
The only glitches I had were due to faulty connectors.
The neu 5.5mm bullet ones seam to be pretty tough ones. I used them for more than a year and they never disconnected by themselves and really start loosing their grip when plugged full-time for about a year like ESC-Motor connection. Then again simple light bending back make them work very well.

The generic banana 3.5mm ones I used before would wear out by themselves and loose the grip in a month or 2 even on battery-esc connection that it's on only during flight.
I personally never liked deans, because they are impossible to disconnect and in my opinion are too close to each other.
But a lot of people used them successfully.

I use bec and thin wires link up with 14 gauge battery wires. I found that soldering them together makes the wires brittle at the joint, so I just tied them around and glued the thin wire to the think one with CA. Works better anyway. I guess one could have soldered and glued and would work the same.

After connecting the bec, I play a bit with the wires to see if the connection is still intact. I have LEDs on my heli so they show me right away if it is.
Then I connect ESC and motor.

And for electrics it's a bit "safer" in a sense that if signal lost esc turns off the motor, but not necesarily. If there are sparks ESC may continue working. I had that.

If I had a nitro I would really try to find a similar solution with the throttle servo. I think I saw some electronic device that does that. Or just a spring may do fine.

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11-30-2007 08:29 AM  9 years agoPost 11
Hamo

rrVeteran

Ireland

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I had crash when the connector on the servo extension lead from the receiver to the gyro came off. I used cable (zip) ties to secure the wires and as I was tightening them the wires got pulled apart and after some time the connector lost contact. Dental floss can be used to keep the male and female parts together.
Hamo

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11-30-2007 09:10 AM  9 years agoPost 12
Yug

rrMaster

UK. Herts

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Here's the specs on the cable I use (dunno what you'd get in the USA)......

http://cpc.farnell.com/jsp/Cable,+W...able+&+Wire/MC+(MULTI-CONTACT)/60.7190-21/displayProduct.jsp?sku=CBBR1406&_requestid=119503

TPE INSULATED 1.00MM BLACK 25M REEL
Area, conductor CSA:1mm²
Colour, primary insulation:Black
Conductor make-up:258/0.07mm
Current rating:19A
Diameter, External:2.7mm
Material, primary insulation:TPE
Voltage rating, AC:3500V
Material, conductor:Oxygen free Copper
Temperature range:+110C - -30C
Thickness, primary insulation:0.65mm
Voltage, test:3500V

Vegetable rights and Peace

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11-30-2007 02:16 PM  9 years agoPost 13
cessna151

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Missouri... Originally Indiana

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http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...?&I=LXKX39&P=ML

--Eagles may soar high, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines!--

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11-30-2007 02:38 PM  9 years agoPost 14
Wyn

rrApprentice

Oregon, USA

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Here's a pic of the powerpole type.

Wyn
VoltMagic

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11-30-2007 02:44 PM  9 years agoPost 15
spog

rrVeteran

Ontario, Canada

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Futaba connectors are crap as Yug already mentioned. I did a comparison discharge on the same pack at 2.2 amps with new futaba and deans micro connectors. The difference as measured with a recording DMM was approx .15 volts.

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11-30-2007 02:58 PM  9 years agoPost 16
ckoelliker

rrElite Veteran

St. Simons, GA

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Yug: Are you changing the wiring on the battery and the regulator? Or does your regulator have a better supply wire?

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11-30-2007 03:17 PM  9 years agoPost 17
GyroFreak

rrProfessor

Orlando Florida ...28N 81W

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Hamo

Dental floss can be used to keep the male and female parts together.
Thanks, I had the same problem when I tie wrapped everything neatly, not enough slack and one of the servo extensions pulled apart. Been using small tie wraps to secure male/female connectors but the dental floss is a much better idea.

I think about the hereafter. I go somewhere to get something, then wonder what I'm here after ?

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11-30-2007 04:32 PM  9 years agoPost 18
Yug

rrMaster

UK. Herts

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For my Duralite setups, i'm changing the wiring on the battery, regulator and switch if used for power as well as taking 2 cables (higher current futaba cable - bigger won't fit!) from the regulator to the receiver. I also remove the diode from the battery.

Also do same for helis still using NiMH cells.

On the other hand, Relions and the Arizona Reg (with Deans) are designed like this The use of the rudder and gyro cables is a neat solution.

Vegetable rights and Peace

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11-30-2007 06:02 PM  9 years agoPost 19
RappyTappy

rrProfessor

North Denver, Colorado

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For my battery to regulator connection, I use deans connectors, bit bigger than stock plastic connectors, but a lot more reliable for sure.

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