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11-29-2007 05:06 PM  10 years agoPost 1
tj1

rrApprentice

ireland

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hi all ,
I'm having probs with my carb and carb spacer !!!
after 2 min flying the engine gos all funny every time i fly ,,and when i check the carb screws are lose well not as tight as they were this is happening every time now , has this happened to anyone and what did you do to sort it out ,,,,
this could be a great heli but it lets me down all the time , over stupid little things and ruins the day all the time,,
i have a 90 nitro and it great , never any probs , and when i bring it out i always have a hassle free day

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11-29-2007 06:19 PM  10 years agoPost 2
lperagallo

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Westfield, Indiana, USA

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tj1,

Are you running the Z-RC carb insulator block? If so, you need to shorten the bolts a bit. If you didn't shorten them they are probably not set right and vibrating loose.

If you don't have that block, I can't help because I never had a problem with the stock engine.

Lou

Twin Bergen 44Magnums FBL Wren NW44s - Kero start

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11-29-2007 06:36 PM  10 years agoPost 3
tj1

rrApprentice

ireland

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iv been having probs with the stock insulator and the gasket ,, so now i have the z-rc carb block ,
what blots are you talking about
the 2 short ones for the z-rc insulator block
or the 2 long ones for the carb it self

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11-29-2007 07:06 PM  10 years agoPost 4
j.8

rrVeteran

Denmark

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Hi tj1

This is what to look for

Bo Denmark

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11-29-2007 07:33 PM  10 years agoPost 5
tj1

rrApprentice

ireland

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Ive just looked at the z-rc and now after today's attempts to fly ,, the white Teflon gaskets have melted ,,, the one fixed to the engine, this is getting worse every minute,,,,
is it possible to convert to a nitro engine

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11-29-2007 07:54 PM  10 years agoPost 6
lperagallo

rrApprentice

Westfield, Indiana, USA

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tj1,

What are your needles set at? The Teflon gaskets do mold themselves, but don't melt. What engine and headspeed you running. From what you are describing you may have a serious problem. Is the clutch solid and not slipping. Check after a flight and make sure it just warm to the touch and not real hot.

Lou

Twin Bergen 44Magnums FBL Wren NW44s - Kero start

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11-29-2007 08:18 PM  10 years agoPost 7
tj1

rrApprentice

ireland

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well the engine was fine for a couple of flight until the gasket went in the muffler ,it took me a while to find that out.. the muffler was coming lose and the gasket had ripped , well once that was fixed ,, everything was flying well ,,,, now the same problem was starting again but at the other end of the engine the carb gasket had ripped , so i was told to buy this z-rc ,,, when i put it on , every thing was back working again . the heli was flying great very smooth and i was loving the sound of the engine,, well this only lasted 5 min ,, when i took the carb of the screws were not as tight as i tighten them. so with one turn to get them back tight ,, the heli would fly again for 5 Min's ,, and then the same prob again
not sure what my head-speed is
but in hover about 14000 or 13000
my needle setting are just of factory setting..
not sure what you mean about the clutch slipping

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11-29-2007 09:13 PM  10 years agoPost 8
lperagallo

rrApprentice

Westfield, Indiana, USA

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tj1,

There are no factory setting on the Zenoah engine. If it's a g26 make sure that the lo and hi needles are at least 1 3/8 turns out from bottom. When you bottom the needles, turn them in until they lightly seat, then back them off.

Hopefully you mean a headspeed off 1400-1500. What I mean about the clutch is to make sure it isn't slipping when engaged. It probably is not a problem, but I'm concerned with your engine temp. Just make sure that the clutch is not hot to the touch after a flight. If it is, there could be slipping causing your engine to be running at too high an RPM.

Once you tighten your carb bolts you should not need to re tighten them unless you have bad vibration. If you have that much vibration, you entire heli could be getting damaged.

Again what engine are you running? Check you needles by screwing them in and counting the number of turns in and post those settings. Also you might as well tell us your oil ratio and type of fuel.

Lou

Twin Bergen 44Magnums FBL Wren NW44s - Kero start

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11-29-2007 09:33 PM  10 years agoPost 9
tj1

rrApprentice

ireland

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every thing is back tight to the heli,, not sure now if the Teflon melted or it was squashed by me tighten it five times today,, my friend just text me and he has a spare one, and im going to change the engine settings,,,, the engine is a g231 stock.. and i only needed to turn the lo end about half a turn for the heli to run smooth... there has been no visible vibrations from the heli ,, it look very smooth in the air

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11-29-2007 09:47 PM  10 years agoPost 10
HELI PRO 007

rrNovice

Ireland and Portugal

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hey tj we will have to reset the two needle to 1 3/8 open as we've no idea what the needle are set at sounds like engine overheated. What oil ratio did you use? mine is running very well so you will get it right soon

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11-29-2007 10:00 PM  10 years agoPost 11
tj1

rrApprentice

ireland

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ok heli pro ill see you tomorrow , if this dose not work im giving up this hobby ,.

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11-30-2007 12:30 AM  10 years agoPost 12
Toadster25

rrKey Veteran

Iowa

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Is this a new engine and heli? If so I will tell you that when I first got my spectra built over a year ago I think maybe 2 years ago now, it was a major pain in the butt to get my spectra working great like it is now. I think the main problem with it was just getting past the new engine break in. I am using a stock g231 and I think they run a lot rougher when new. I also had trouble with keeping my V2 muffler tight and the stock insulator gaskets leaking. I have been using the Z-RC insulator without any problems. I looked at your gallery and it looks like you have a Cetury V2 or V3 on your heli and I would recomend tring to fly with the stock muffler once and see how it does. I think that the big muffler hanging off the engine makes the vibrations worse. Also it can make tuning the engine a little more tricky than the stock muffler. Just try for a day and see if it makes any difference. Then I would switch back to the V3 after you have a few gallons though it. You may have to re-torque the stock muffler bolts after it has been run once but after that you wont have any problems with it comming loose.
Let me know if you do try the stock muffler becuase I had a terible time getting my engine to run right and then as soon as I put the stock muffler on it ran perfectly so I never went back to those other mufflers. I'm just currious.

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