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HelicopterAlignOther › Aftermarket 1.6mm carbon frames?
11-28-2007 08:19 PM  10 years agoPost 21
tchavei

rrProfessor

Portugal

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in that case the total diference between 2mm G10 frames and 1.6mm carbon frames is around 60-70gr total... thats alot

Tony


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"Perfection and patience usually walk side by side..."

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11-28-2007 08:41 PM  10 years agoPost 22
Rockohaulic

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Canyon Country, CA, USA, 3rd Rock from the Sun

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THat's not how I read that. I read it as 30 gm total.

Plus there's the fact that you are comparing apples with oranges. G10 is heavier than carbon fiber.

Saturday morning I flew my helicopter in my pajamas
How it got in my pajamas I'll never know

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11-28-2007 09:00 PM  10 years agoPost 23
mont_blanc

rrApprentice

UK

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If someone's offering to make up 1.6mm frames with goodies then I'd definately be interested in a few pairs with the goodies already mentioned plus a place to mount the tail servo off the back off the frame so it sits neatly under the tail. (would remove any possible play from having two tail control rods and loose more weight).

seriously interested if someone is going to make then up.

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11-28-2007 09:14 PM  10 years agoPost 24
tchavei

rrProfessor

Portugal

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Rockohaulic:

The diference between 1.6mm carbon and 2.0mm is easily 40gr total. If you go to a aftermarket solution like rotorworks or alike the diference climbs to 60gr as they include frame stiffeners, redesigned frames etc etc.

I found an interesting composite material in Italy. its a 50% carbon 50% kevlar mixture. Weight is almost the same and the carbon sheet looks like having golden waves. Resistance seems to be higher than that of pure carbon so 1.5mm should be enough. Only catch is that its so expensive (over 45 bucks per sheet) that I doubt anyone would give like 140 bucks for a set of 3 frames

Tony


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"Perfection and patience usually walk side by side..."

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11-28-2007 10:08 PM  10 years agoPost 25
TJK

rrNovice

Waunakee, Wisconsin USA

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If the tail servo is mounted in the rear of the frame wouldn't that create a CG issue. Just something to think about.

Team Quick UK

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11-29-2007 04:38 AM  10 years agoPost 26
Helinutnz

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below 42 South

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Funny most are flying with the 1.6mm frames and the ship seems to fly so darn well. Is 2.0 mm simply for crash resistance? Will 2.0mm frames actually fly better?

Funny for weight reduction some could get rid of their whopping big batteries so they can fly for 3 days without recharging LOL.
I'm running a 1500 20C lipo. In fact I have two of them. Both charged I'll get 4 safe flights out of each. While I fly one the other can charge. The best way to get weight out of our heli's then I'd look at electronics first.

The DS 8717's with the metal heatsinks....really necessary? 8715's are .09secs with heaps of torque....is .06 secs going to make a difference? truly? plastic case. (you don't wanna know how much that fancy red heatsink case is going to cost you when you break one)
The 4800 mah lilons?
the eagle tree (unless you remove it after testing then all good)
the 611 with on board amp
onboard mixture
voltguard
charging system
dual redunancy setup
remote glow
bling unless it serves a purpose

bet ya some save 20 or 30 grams on frames and whack it on with electronics. LOL

It's possible the 2.0mm frames may survive a lighter crash and seeing as they are expensive then the cost may be worth it. Don't put metal canopy standoffs on unless they are the breakaway type. Use plastic...thats more likely to break.

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11-29-2007 08:19 AM  10 years agoPost 27
ehousetrex

rrNovice

Wenonah, NJ

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CarbSmart

I installed the CarbSmart device on my 600N last night. After I got everything working I started cleaning up the wires. I go and turn the cardsmart on and noticed that the sensor light was no longer coming on. I took off shrink wrap and found one of the leads came off. Has anyone used a different sensor. The sensor that come with this device is very fragile.

Is there an aftermarket sensor out there....

HouseMD

RIP Roman - You don't know how much your missed -

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11-29-2007 10:35 AM  10 years agoPost 28
tchavei

rrProfessor

Portugal

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Welcome to the club ehousetrex. I had similar issues. you can read about them here. You can get a bunch of thermistors and attempt to solder them yourself but as you already know, we are talking about smd components here which are a b**ch to solder. I ended up buying three extra sensors.

Tony


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"Perfection and patience usually walk side by side..."

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11-29-2007 10:36 AM  10 years agoPost 29
tchavei

rrProfessor

Portugal

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Helinutnz: I'm going to strip the metal case of my 9351's... I'm sure they will work without the covering and I should save ALOT of weight

Tony


--------------------
"Perfection and patience usually walk side by side..."

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11-29-2007 01:28 PM  10 years agoPost 30
Helinutnz

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below 42 South

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yes i know what you are saying. It's only about 3 grams per servo from the 8915 to the 8715 but the specs are the same and is the metal case really necessary? 200 hkg for the metal case and $30 hkg for the plastic ones. I am running 9155's but looking at changing as personally i think they are still not accurate on the centering as they are still a derivitive of a car servo.

I run JR gear and now looking at JR servo's as checking them out in a store in hkg the other day it was apparent they have less gear backlash and are smoother than the 9351's or 9155's. I checked the 9255's and they are awesome however were developed for heli's. Just slow.

the 8715's are identical to the 8915's except for the metal case. The americans 8717 is fast and strong but the 8715 fits the bill to me. I am trying to get rid of the need to constanly trim my trex 600N and slop can be traced back to the 9155's gear mesh. I want that quick uk swash too.

The servo cases are a small point but 3x3 is 9 grams. add that to everything else and every little bit counts said the monkey as he pissed into the ocean.

Max manouevring ability and auto capability is when the machine is lightest. But strength versus lightness has to be considered too.

I never wanted to use lipos in my machines but realise that these are simply the best power choices for the rx with regards to power,flight time and weight.

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11-29-2007 01:30 PM  10 years agoPost 31
Helinutnz

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below 42 South

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ps. I am sick of cutting tabs off futaba servo's and jamming them into JR receivers as well!

My main point about electronics weight is the extra that are thrown on and the large high capacity batteries being used. No worries for someone doing mild fanging but for all out performance then the lowest weight should be sought.
the 1500 lipo is very light and at 20C it wont run out of power due to demand.....just less flights.

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11-29-2007 02:48 PM  10 years agoPost 32
tchavei

rrProfessor

Portugal

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I only have a 2600 fromeco li-on which weights 98gr

About the servos itself... if you compare the standart 9252 that most are using (50gr) with a 9351 (61gr), the diference is "only" 11gr PER servo (total 33gr) which is over an ounce.

Tony


--------------------
"Perfection and patience usually walk side by side..."

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11-29-2007 03:45 PM  10 years agoPost 33
Helinutnz

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below 42 South

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If we could save 6 to 8 ounces over the whole ship it is quite a bit that the blades don't have to lift.

I'd like to not have to carry the 611's amp in the heli. Maybe I should throw the 770T into the trex as it's very lightweight. I won't use the remote glow as I made an extension plug driver from an old trex 450 boom that works great after I saw a friend had done it.

The quick uk swash is a bit lighter and the new washout base is lighter than the original one although I haven't weighed the metal arms next to the plastic ones.

I use the revmax....super lightweight gov.

The 2600 relion seems pretty light. The 1500 lipo is lighter but of course I ain't going to get as many flights out of it. So two of them means I can keep flying.

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11-29-2007 04:06 PM  10 years agoPost 34
tchavei

rrProfessor

Portugal

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I'm using a 6100GT combo... very light and a revlock (7gr)

Tony


--------------------
"Perfection and patience usually walk side by side..."

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11-29-2007 05:45 PM  10 years agoPost 35
Helinutnz

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below 42 South

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do you like the 6100GT combo?

The rev max is doing a great job. Haven't tried a revlock yet.

Interesting I just looked at the specs of the arizona compared to the align 2 in 1 regulator and the latter is 3.5 grams heavier. I thought the arizona would have been heavier. I dont need the glow thing so rather than get an align reg as I was about to I'll put the arizona on it. (was being kept for the Aurora but I have well and truly given up on that thing)

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11-29-2007 07:46 PM  10 years agoPost 36
blbills

rrKey Veteran

Provo, UT

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Has anyone tried a micro servo for the throttle? Is that even feasable? Something like an HS-50 or 55?

Brian

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11-29-2007 09:14 PM  10 years agoPost 37
tchavei

rrProfessor

Portugal

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I think the Logictech is simply amazing. As good or better than my 601 for sure and since the 611 is nothing more than a 601 with a new type LCD, it is up to par

Brian Bills:

I'm using a nano servo (22gr) on my 600N without problems (its a 3155) but I have my doubts about using a HS-50 because of the vibrations? Not sure those servos you mention will handle it

Tony


--------------------
"Perfection and patience usually walk side by side..."

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HelicopterAlignOther › Aftermarket 1.6mm carbon frames?
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