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12-01-2007 02:26 PM  10 years agoPost 61
FCM

rrElite Veteran

Surrey, England

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Well, I think we are both on the same track actually. The normal mode trimming can I suppose be done before switching to HH mode. It is a bit hit and miss to get the mechanical trimming for the normal mode spot on first time though. I have always flown first in HH and switched into Normal in the hover and watched which way the heli turned. I then set the mechanical trim, check normal and once it is as still as I need it to be, the trimming is complete.

If you have a high-end CSM gyro, unless you have the mechanical trim some way out, you do not need to do this operation as it has a 'quick trim' function that trims the normal mode. Great for camera ships where you fly at differing weights which of course, puts your normal mode trim out of wack

Paul.

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12-01-2007 02:49 PM  10 years agoPost 62
AceBird

rrElite Veteran

Utica, NY USA

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It is a bit hit and miss to get the mechanical trimming for the normal mode spot on first time though.
Not for me. If you are willing to use your electrical trim to get it steady then land. Measure where the links are with a caliper or use your indicator. Zero your trims and mechanically put the links back to perfect ... your done in one try. No guess work.

Switching into normal mode from HH in the air on a maiden flight for a beginner could be a wipe out. I am confident you can do it Paul. I might even be able to do it myself but I would never instruct someone I didn't know to do it.

Ace
What could be more fun?

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12-02-2007 01:16 AM  10 years agoPost 63
FCM

rrElite Veteran

Surrey, England

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I'm not instructing anybody actually, just telling how I do it which strangely enough is the same way that CSM instruct you to do it.

Doing the caliper thing is a good idea but any normal tail trim condition is only going to be good for one weight and one set rotor speed at hover. Change any one of these factors and it will swing so a swinging tail is nothing new and nothing to worry about and if you can't control the tail, then fly in HH mode until you can and then trim the normal mode.

Paul.

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12-02-2007 01:27 AM  10 years agoPost 64
sla

rrApprentice

wasilla,ak,99654

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ok, havent flown today cause sick. but i did replace tail gears and made sure everything is ok. well the tail is tight except there is s little slop still when i rotate the tail blades hmmm... so i guess because the mesh is good on both ends then only one thing remains, the plastic holders that go over torque tube. i have checked before and they seem perfect but i will look anyway. how much slop is supposed to be in the tail?

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12-03-2007 05:38 AM  10 years agoPost 65
Excalibur

rrKey Veteran

Destination: Earth

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Hi sla:

You are on the right track. . .

The slop that most people experience in the tail rotor is caused by the fit between the TT dog bone and the drive coupling on each end of the drive shaft. It is typical to have 1/2" to 3/4" play at the tip of one of the tail rotor blades as you rock them back and forth while preventing the main rotor head from turning.

If you start seeing more than 3/4" to 1" play, it would be a good idea to pull everything apart and inspect for loose set screws in the bevel gears in one or both ends of the tail boom assembly.

Xcal

Camper Fuel: It's Not Just for Breakfast Anymore

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12-05-2007 01:33 AM  10 years agoPost 66
sla

rrApprentice

wasilla,ak,99654

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ok still sick so havent flown but i have no where near that much slop actually it is like 1/4 inch at the most i will measure later.
i do feel alot better now that you say that.

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