RunRyder RC
 8  Topic Subscribe
WATCH
 2 pages [ <<    <     1     ( 2 )    >    >> ] 3920 views POST REPLY
Scorpion Power Scorpion Power
HelicopterGasser Model RC HelicoptersOther › GSR 260 with S/S Ignition and Rajas Generator
11-29-2007 06:28 PM  9 years agoPost 21
lperagallo

rrApprentice

Westfield, Indiana, USA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Two questions:

1. Isn't it better to have grub screws at 45 degrees to each other rather then 180 apart. 180 apart has the screws fighting against each other while at 45 they keep pressure against the shaft.

2. Does a belt drive generate any static that needs to be grounded?

The set up looks real nice!

Lou

Twin Bergen 44Magnums FBL Wren NW44s - Kero start

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
11-29-2007 09:08 PM  9 years agoPost 22
AceBird

rrElite Veteran

Utica, NY USA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

So the axi motor sucks with horizontal load since it doesn't have bearings on both ends of the shaft like standard motors.
Are you sure? I thought it had a bearing at both ends of the stator. The can (rotor) is mounted to the shaft at one end but there should be two bearings on the shaft.
However I am gonna strongly think about using counter sunk screws so that I can get the pully even closer to the motor.
Yes, counter sink or button heads is what I use.
1. Isn't it better to have grub screws at 45 degrees to each other rather then 180 apart. 180 apart has the screws fighting against each other while at 45 they keep pressure against the shaft.
45 degrees would be better but the threads will interfere on such a small shaft. You can go as far as 120 degrees to get that benefit. However the problem is as long as the bushing is a slip fit it will wobble every revolution on the shaft because you cannot put the setscrews on the center of the pulley due to the size of the teeth. Locktite will fill the space between the bushing bore and the shaft so it doesn’t rock anymore.
2. Does a belt drive generate any static that needs to be grounded?
To the best of my knowledge I have not experienced any static issues. I wouldn’t expect it anyway because the torque load is so light.

Ace
What could be more fun?

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
11-29-2007 09:37 PM  9 years agoPost 23
lperagallo

rrApprentice

Westfield, Indiana, USA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Ace,

Since I am one to be on your case, I want to be on record that your last post was great! Very informative and helpful about the location of the grub screws.

Lou

Twin Bergen 44Magnums FBL Wren NW44s - Kero start

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
11-30-2007 12:59 AM  9 years agoPost 24
FCM

rrElite Veteran

Surrey, England

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Nice work copperclad

That looks like standard square section aluminium extrusion you are using? That is ingenious

Paul.

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
11-30-2007 01:47 AM  9 years agoPost 25
copperclad

rrElite Veteran

NY

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

hi Paul
thanks , i was worried about having it stick up through the canopy , and realized i had room for it inside the frame , went through a few design cycles , typical Murphie's law , what could go wrong , did go wrong , 1" X 1" alloy stock from home despot and the rest from stock drive , i have to thank Raja , for the info on the rectifier , very good project , thanks again , dana

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
12-01-2007 05:12 AM  9 years agoPost 26
andyman_sf

rrApprentice

San Francisco, CA - USA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

boy you guys were right about the allen screw coming loose on the pulleey. I'm pulling out the red locktite tomorrow.

andy

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
12-01-2007 01:40 PM  9 years agoPost 27
AceBird

rrElite Veteran

Utica, NY USA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Where my pulley is located it falls off the heli. Three times it happened to me. Luckily it happened when the heli was close in and I saw it fall so my battery took over with no incident. Actually the first time it happened the plastic pulley slipped off the bushing so I pin that now. Loctite won't hold plastic to steel. The bushing were already made so it was too late for a real press fit. Keep an eye on that pulley loosening up because you don't want to run out of juice.

Ace
What could be more fun?

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
12-02-2007 12:14 AM  9 years agoPost 28
andyman_sf

rrApprentice

San Francisco, CA - USA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Do you think it would be better if I just drilled a hole straight through the shaft and having a retaining pin? It would be hard to drill since the shaft is hardened but I'm sure a very very small end mill on a good vise should get the job done.

Right now I have an aluminum pully and red loctite on the set screws threads. Set screws are opposite of each other (2 total). Think that would hold?

andy

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
12-02-2007 12:52 AM  9 years agoPost 29
copperclad

rrElite Veteran

NY

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

hi
your other option to think about is to go back to Raja's setup , with a straight spider coupler off the starter shaft , with the mount you made , i can see you would be able to build a new mount for your GSR to run a straight spider coupler , just a thought , dana

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
12-02-2007 01:18 AM  9 years agoPost 30
FCM

rrElite Veteran

Surrey, England

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

As I mentioned before - grind a flat on the shaft with a dremmel. It will help a lot to locate at least one of your grub screws.

Paul.

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
12-02-2007 01:40 AM  9 years agoPost 31
copperclad

rrElite Veteran

NY

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

hi Paul
i agree a flat is the way to go , a good trick i learned , before you take the dremel to the shaft , push the tip of the shaft through the bottom of a sandwhich bag , so the motor is in the bag and just the shaft is sticking out , the tension of the plastic will cause a good seal around the base of the shaft , and now grind away and don't worry about the metal grindings finding thier way to the rear earth magnets inside the motor or into the bearings for that matter , HTH , dana

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
12-02-2007 05:09 AM  9 years agoPost 32
andyman_sf

rrApprentice

San Francisco, CA - USA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Ahh sorry didn't mention this but I already created a flat for both set screws. Did this a long time ago. I'm gonna test the red loctite tomorrow. Just waiting for the loctite to set.

andy

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
12-02-2007 02:32 PM  9 years agoPost 33
AceBird

rrElite Veteran

Utica, NY USA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

If the red loctite doesn't work use the green (cylinderical lock). Flats will not stop the screws from coming loose. It will prevent the shaft from slipping when they do and give you a slight chance of seeing the pulley loose before it comes off but it will not stop the screws from coming loose. The end of the screw gets warn by the constant wiggle. The only way to stop the wiggle is to fill the space between the pulley and the shaft with a solid material. Hence the loctite.

Incidentally this is the same reason the miter gears in the tail loosen up. Flats or no flats ...

Ace
What could be more fun?

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
12-10-2007 09:50 AM  9 years agoPost 34
andyman_sf

rrApprentice

San Francisco, CA - USA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Ok so I snapped a belt. Must have adjusted the tension wrong OR it wasn't perfectly aligned. Anyway after reviewing the comments in this post I decide to redesign the whole thing. Haven't tested it yet (just got the heli back together) but hoping this will solve all problems. Red loctited all set screws. If this works i'll post the mcmaster part numbers in case anyone wants to make this also.

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
12-10-2007 12:05 PM  9 years agoPost 35
FCM

rrElite Veteran

Surrey, England

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Wrong spec. belt maybe?

Paul.

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
12-10-2007 12:40 PM  9 years agoPost 36
copperclad

rrElite Veteran

NY

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

hi
nice work andy , belt might have been a touch tight , HTH , dana

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
12-10-2007 05:51 PM  9 years agoPost 37
AceBird

rrElite Veteran

Utica, NY USA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Ok so I snapped a belt. Must have adjusted the tension wrong OR it wasn't perfectly aligned.
Wow! Must of been way too tight.

Ace
What could be more fun?

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
12-13-2007 09:33 PM  9 years agoPost 38
andyman_sf

rrApprentice

San Francisco, CA - USA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Ok went through 2 tanks of gas and the thing is still working perfectly, nothing came loose, set screws are all holding tight. Here are the parts ordered from mcmaster.

Each 1375K36 Miniature Mxl Series Alum Timing-Belt Pulley for 3/16" & 1/4" Belt Width, .635" OD, 18 Teeth
$8.19 quantity 2

You will have to bore one of these out to 5mm and for the second one, you'll have to have a lathe to make a sleeve and bore a 1/8" hole on one side and machine a 1/8 sholder on the other side. I used a 1/8" ID and 5/16" OD flanged bearing .

Each 1679K163 Trapezoidal Tooth Urethane Timing Belt .080" Pitch, Trade Sz 28Mxl, 2.8" Outer Circle, 1/4" W
$3.66

The 1/4" belt is a bit wide but I know this sucker won't break!

andy

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
12-14-2007 03:51 PM  9 years agoPost 39
copperclad

rrElite Veteran

NY

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

hi Andy
sounds like you have gotten to the bottom of your problems with the conversion , good work hanging in there and thanks for the update , dana

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
WATCH
 2 pages [ <<    <     1     ( 2 )    >    >> ] 3920 views POST REPLY
Scorpion Power Scorpion Power
HelicopterGasser Model RC HelicoptersOther › GSR 260 with S/S Ignition and Rajas Generator
 Print TOPIC  Make Suggestion 

 8  Topic Subscribe

Sunday, October 22 - 10:13 pm - Copyright © 2000-2017 RunRyder   EMAILEnable Cookies

Login Here
 New Subscriptions 
 Buddies Online