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HelicopterAudacity Models P6 Pantera - Tiger 50 › Tail control push rod
09-17-2007 01:33 AM  10 years agoPost 1
Ivan

rrVeteran

Hutchinson Kansas

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On my pantera, the tail contorl rod has little room between the nuts that hold the boom support ends in the tube. If the pushrod vibrates against the nut, this is a recipe for all kinds of RFI.

Any tricks on getting more clearance?

Ivan

I came, I saw, I hovered

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09-17-2007 02:11 AM  10 years agoPost 2
legoman67

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Nanoose Bay B.C,​Canada

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put afew washers on each side of the mount, then the supports will be out further..

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09-17-2007 05:31 AM  10 years agoPost 3
Machinehead01

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Lower Michigan

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Tail supports

Place the nuts on the outside with the heads of the bolts facing in.
I also put 2 3/16 pieces of fuel tubing between the boom connection support mount and the suports themselves. It adds some spacing and gives some flexability in case of a crash.

Thomas

"You judge according to the flesh; I am not judging anyone."

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09-17-2007 10:39 PM  10 years agoPost 4
djMidnight

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Petaluma, California

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I was more worried about binding than RFI. I used a couple of thick aluminum washers between the tail clamp and the support rods to move the rods out about 1/8" on each side. Then I glued the tail rod guides to the boom with a dab of CA so they don't slide around.

Jason.

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09-18-2007 02:52 AM  10 years agoPost 5
Gunner

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Richmond, Va. - USA

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Ivan, After my last crash, I purchased a carbon fiber pushrod, cut it to length and installed it. Didn't use the pushrod guides at all. The carbon rod was very inexpensive. There is plenty of clearance now since I don't use any guides and it runs directly from the servo to the tail.

Gunner
Fusion 50, Pantera 50, Tiger 50
Walkera 4F200LM, T-REX 450 SA

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09-18-2007 02:59 PM  10 years agoPost 6
jvanscoyk

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Tucson, AZ

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If using a carbon fiber rod you might want to consider using one of the puhrod guides without the red ball in it to support the rod. I've heard of problems of vibration on the carbon rod causing premature wear of the servo. I'm sure others may chime in on this.

Jim

must go faster, must go faster.........

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09-18-2007 03:18 PM  10 years agoPost 7
rstacy

rrElite Veteran

Rochester, NY

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Ivan,
I put a plastic spacer on each side of the boom clamp.
You may want to consider notching the clamp at the point where the rod passes under it.

Ray

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09-18-2007 04:45 PM  10 years agoPost 8
playfair

rrKey Veteran

Rochester, NY

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I'll second notching the bottom of the clamp. I filed a semi-circle between the sides where the bolt goes such that the tail rod barely touches it. This is with the rod guide balls all set in the center position for the most direct path.


The sky is our canvas

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09-18-2007 07:39 PM  10 years agoPost 9
Gunner

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Richmond, Va. - USA

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Jim, Thanks for the comment on the guide with the carbon pushrod. I'll give that a try. I'm trying to cut down on as much friction as I can on the tail. The stock pushrod always seemed to bind at one of the guides so I when I destroyed the pushrod in my last crash, I thought I would try the carbon rod with no guides. But I sure don't want to damage an expensive Futaba servo by using a $10 carbon rod.

Gunner
Fusion 50, Pantera 50, Tiger 50
Walkera 4F200LM, T-REX 450 SA

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09-18-2007 08:33 PM  10 years agoPost 10
Herc

rrKey Veteran

Cranbrook, BC -​Canada

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Speaking of a rod guide on the carbon push rod. I was awhile back that some of the Bergen flyers were using velcro wire straps around the boom and rod with just enough tension to dampen the vibrations. I did this on my Intrepid and have also done it to the Tiger and Pantera. Works very well and was a little easier to install. Just another option.

Cheers, Shayne

Tiger & Pantera 50s
BRC Intrepid Gas
Predator Gas SE
Hirobo SST Eagle 2 98
Evo 50s

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09-19-2007 02:00 AM  10 years agoPost 11
Ivan

rrVeteran

Hutchinson Kansas

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Usually with the carbon rods the single guide is to keep the rod from getting into the blades when (not if) the threaded end breaks. Someone got the hot idea that those ends should be made from titanium, with cut threads. Cut threads are a crack waiting to happen, and titanium work hardens more than anything I have ever cut, save bronze aluminum alloy. Work hardening makes it brittle, so if you use them, try and flex the ball link on the rod before every flying session, just to make sure they don't have a crack and are ready to break.

If we could convince them to make stamped threads, it would be ideal.

All that being said, I may get another boom clamp that places the mounting points farther apart. Then I will use the carbon rod, and possibly a carbon fin just for bling.

I came, I saw, I hovered

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