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HelicopterCompass Knight 50 ODIN 90 › 2nd maiden flight
09-17-2007 01:03 AM  10 years agoPost 1
RICH.L

rrKey Veteran

east springfield p.a.

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well I finally had a chance to fly the knight sport today.

I just hovered for most of the first tank and seemed nice and smooth.

after a few adjustments on the already broken in hyper 50 I decided to try a few flips and rolls with it,the rolls were very slow and the flips took forever to complete.

It didn't seem to have very much punch to it,the climb rate was slow and something just didn't feel right.

second tank I cranked up the swash arf for aileron and elevator and increased pitch from +-10 to +-11 and took off the wood blades and tried the rotortechs,the roll rate was much quicker and so were the flips,it still doesn't seem to want to climb very fast at full pitch and throttle and the engine is not bogging out!

I did set it down to check the engine temp and found the carb had come loose and was moving all over the place.

after shutting it down I also noticed the phase ring or radius block had moved,which would explain my flips feeling very wierd.

just a few minor adjustments and hopefully I can get a few good flights on it,hey I took two heli's up to the field and came back with two still in one piece.

I can't wait to check it over so I can take it back out and give it a good thrashing around at 2000 headspeed and see what it can do.
rich

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09-17-2007 05:13 AM  10 years agoPost 2
Danny Calderone

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South Jersey

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good luck, its all in the setup from here.

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09-17-2007 12:46 PM  10 years agoPost 3
SP4772

rrApprentice

Mirabel, Québec, Canada

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Hi Rich, i was running +-11 deg and moved to 12 with 6 deg of cyclic and adjust the mixings arms to the inner holes...with around 1900-2000rpm, it's rockin' real good!

WWJD??

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09-17-2007 03:13 PM  10 years agoPost 4
pinoy

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Muncie, Indiana USA/Obando, Bulacan Philippines

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Rich,
The more you fly that machine the more you'll love it. Pinoy..

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09-18-2007 01:58 AM  10 years agoPost 5
RICH.L

rrKey Veteran

east springfield p.a.

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1)I pulled the carb back off and cleaned evrything up and put some rtv on the threads to help it from loosening up again.

2)I moved the balls to the inner hole on the mixing arms and now have it at +-12 and 8 degrees of cyclic.

3)readjusted the radius block and set the phasing and put loctite on the nuts to keep it from coming loose again.

4)I also replaced the mainshaft,I did not have a dial indicator but when I rolled the mainshaft on a flat surface it seemed like it had a slight wobble.(not taking any chances with all the troubles I have had this year!!)

gonna give it a try hopefully on tuesday night and try it out again and see how it goes.

the guys at the flying field were riding me some yesterday asking how I liked it compared to all the other 50's I have owned,all this after two flights!

Remember,they were upset I didn't join the RAPTOR TITAN CULT with them!
rich

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09-18-2007 02:02 AM  10 years agoPost 6
RadioRob

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Schaumburg Illinois USA

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Sorry to go off topic but does the Knight3D come with blades?

Rob..

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09-18-2007 02:09 AM  10 years agoPost 7
herby8860

rrApprentice

Conneaut Ohio

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Hey there not all Titans and its not a cult (even thou we sacrafice Hirobos). Better watch your .90.

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09-18-2007 02:41 AM  10 years agoPost 8
Danny Calderone

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South Jersey

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no main blades. most people like to pick there own main and tail blades. It does come with plastic tail blades though.

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09-18-2007 07:28 AM  10 years agoPost 9
Adey_Law

rrVeteran

Bournemouth, UK

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i havnt looked at a new sport for a while. how many holes do you have on the mixer arms?

if its only 2 drill a 3rd one 3mm closer to the main shaft. this decreases the flybar ratio. or you can buy the knight 3d mixer arms. you will have to check your pitch range after doing the mod as you will get more collective and cyclic.

makes quite a big difference well worth it

Ade

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09-18-2007 10:31 AM  10 years agoPost 10
SteveH

rrProfessor

Texas

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Ade,

You are right about that. I've drilled the extra holes in the mixing arms on my Sport and my Pro, and it really brought them to life. A trick that I figured out is, you can use one mixer as a guide to drill the other...just get a small number drill that fits the holes, put them together so one of the holes is a guide toward the inside of the mixer, and drill the new hole. Comes out perfect that way.

The government cannot give you anything without first taking it from someone else.

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09-19-2007 01:49 AM  10 years agoPost 11
RICH.L

rrKey Veteran

east springfield p.a.

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Had the sport in the air tonight doing tic-tocs and flips and loops and rolls all with just the wooodies running at 1850 for headspeed.
(I THINK I LIKE IT!!!)

freaking blades were right in track with no adjustment needed,not bad for tt 600 wood blades.(I got two new sets for $14.00 from another runryder member)

just gonna run a few more tanks through it and recheck everything before I slap on the rotortechs and crank the headspeed up to 2000 and really see what is has to offer!!

by moving the balls on the mixing arms in one more hole this thing became very,very responsive,even with the 20% expo I run on aileron and elevator.(I can just imagine what it would feel like with the balls in another 3 mm,and this is with the stock paddles!)

it's gonna take some time to get used to a fifty size machine again,I haven't flown a fifty in about 5 to 6 months.

one question,on the washout arms there are also inner holes just like on the mixing arms,mine are on the outer holes,any idea what the inner holes are for?
rich

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09-19-2007 05:39 AM  10 years agoPost 12
ez2bgman

rrElite Veteran

N'awlins, LA

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Good to hear you had a good day flying your Sport. Just remember not to get too aggressive with the woodies. I have had them flex to the point of a boom strike. Keep it up and let us know how you like her with the carbon blades and 2000 rpm head speed.
one question,on the washout arms there are also inner holes just like on the mixing arms,mine are on the outer holes,any idea what the inner holes are for?
The inner hole will give you less cyclic input. It is more for beginners. Just leave the links on the outer hole and you will have fun. As stated earlier, for even quicker cyclics drill another hole 3mm closer to the main shaft on the mixing arms or use the Knight 3D mixing arms that already have the holes drilled out.

Gary
Hot Girlz in da gallery

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09-24-2007 11:53 PM  10 years agoPost 13
RICH.L

rrKey Veteran

east springfield p.a.

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well I took the knight out for another spin over the weekend and there is something definately wrong,I don't think it's the heli I think it may be the rear bearing in my os 50 hyper.

it started making a wierd noise coming from what I think was the engine,tried it in idle up and was even worse.

tried to switch to magnum 30 fuel and the noise was worse going from wildcat 15% to the magnum 30%.

I was nervous trying to fly it with a known noise so I broke out the trusty evo 90 and finished my day with that one.

the engine was used and already broken in,and it had sat in my garage for months with no after run oil in it while I was trying to figure out my evo 50 and then waiting on the new knight to show up.

no big deal just have to check it over and see what I find.
rich

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09-25-2007 02:10 AM  10 years agoPost 14
ZR2Chevy22

rrApprentice

Kemah, TX

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Hey Rich,

I have a NIB OS 50 Hyper I'll sell ya for 175 shipped. PM me if your interested.

Andrew

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09-25-2007 04:35 AM  10 years agoPost 15
ez2bgman

rrElite Veteran

N'awlins, LA

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I would definitely check the rear bearing in the Hyper. They are notorious for having a short life span. Whenever the rear bearings go out in my engines, I always replace them with ceramic bearing from http://www.rc-bearings.com (leave the - in the address).

Gary
Hot Girlz in da gallery

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09-25-2007 11:30 PM  10 years agoPost 16
RICH.L

rrKey Veteran

east springfield p.a.

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well steve.h sent me a p.m. to check to see if the bearing above the clutch pinion was loctited.

before I pulled it apart I spun the maingear and could hear a screaching noise coming from the clutch bell area.

sure enough the bearing above the clutch pinion is spinning in the race,good for me,just put some loctite on it and try it again.
(no money for parts!!)

the engine still has great compression and feels very smooth,not to mention it only takes maybe five minutes to pull the engine back out if there is a problem.

I don't think there will be a problem because you can see bluing on the pinion where the race was spinning.

rich

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09-26-2007 12:15 AM  10 years agoPost 17
SteveH

rrProfessor

Texas

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Rich,

On severe cases where the pinion has spun in the bearing a lot, it will get undersized and will not be able to be Locktited to the bearing. In that case, the pinion will have to be replaced. Hope you caught yours before that's necessary.

The government cannot give you anything without first taking it from someone else.

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09-29-2007 10:27 PM  9 years agoPost 18
RICH.L

rrKey Veteran

east springfield p.a.

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I put it back together today and got two more great flights in!!

that bearing above the clutch bell spinning in it's race was definately the noise I was hearing.

I am glad I had it apart,I had put the metal gear on that replaces the plastic one where the belt pulley is on the frame and the gear was loose and moving around!

could have been a bad day,I fired it up and was at about 35 feet off the ground,just as I was going to go to idle up the engine stalled and I was forced to auto with the wood blades.(landed safely in a field,just had some grass stains on the one wood blade)

I used orange high temp rtv on the muffler and a small piece was in the glow plug,I have had that happen before,I was lucky to auto it in with the woodies on there!

I think sunday I am throwing on the rotortechs and crank the headspeed up,tired of flying at 1800rpm.

thank's steve.h,you saved me a teardown on the engine!
rich

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09-30-2007 03:33 AM  9 years agoPost 19
SteveH

rrProfessor

Texas

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Rich,

You are welcome. Glad to be able to help. I used to use red RTV to seal the muffler to the engine also, but had several cases where some of it would come off, get into the glow plug, and kill it. I now use JN Weld exclusively for sealing the muffler and it works great. No problems with it coming of, and it seals better than the RTV did.

The government cannot give you anything without first taking it from someone else.

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09-30-2007 02:22 PM  9 years agoPost 20
kirk

rrVeteran

Northern, Colorado

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RICH

I am always afraid to fly someones heli if they use silicone to seal the muffler!!! I have seen what you described happen a lot yet everyone still uses silicone or defends it when I tell them that I do not and will not use it.

I have always used a REALLY light coat of two part epoxy. It seems to work well and has never caused a glow plug to get fouled. Its cheap and easy to clean up if you remove the muffler. I also stands up to the heat really well!!

Anyway good luck with you machine!!

Kirk

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HelicopterCompass Knight 50 ODIN 90 › 2nd maiden flight
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