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Scorpion Power Scorpion Power
HelicopterAerial Photography and Video › Proud AP 2000 owner
09-16-2007 10:36 PM  10 years agoPost 1
talk the torque

rrApprentice

SA

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Well I have received my AP 2000 and FMA sensor (thanx Mark for the great service)

Took some spare servos and a receiver and did all my testing on the bench to familarize myself with operating it and it is quite easy to understand it, especially with the quickstart guide on Mark Webber's Website. Then fitted it to the heli and all seems to be working well, will do a test flight hopefully tomorrow.

Ok some quick questions
How do you guys mount the sensor on to the boom?
Is there anything I should watch out for? I understand how the calibration works and have tested it but anything else like problems with gasser magnetos or the like.

I am very impressed with the quality of this product. The only not so good thing was that the cables that are supplied are JR leads but are super tight going into a JR receiver. I managed with a lot of effort to get the leads back out and have now resized them so that they fit properly.

Regards
Jason

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09-16-2007 11:37 PM  10 years agoPost 2
Chris Bergen

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cassopolis, MI USA

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Something like this may help.

http://69.65.123.251/~bergenrc/phpB...wtopic.php?t=74

Chris D. Bergen

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09-17-2007 02:27 AM  10 years agoPost 3
Autoeject

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Ashtabula, OH, USA

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That is nice, Chris. Better looking than what I'm using. You must have a machine shop near by, huh

Jason

No special worries with gassers. I've got 1.5 years on my Intrepid EB with the AP2000i installed. Just be sure your IR sensor cable is properly secured. Chris' pic is a good reference. You'll note that it's shown installed on a gasser.

Mark Webber
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09-17-2007 04:17 AM  10 years agoPost 4
Envision

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MI

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Just used mine for the first time today on a Stinger 90. Made my own carbon fiber mount.

Worked properly on the bench so I took it for a flight testing a camera mount with different weights. Overloaded it once and got a pendalum going. 50% gain and it instantly stopped. High winds today and they werent even noticable w/15% gain. Calibrated at about 20'.

Very happy with the product and customer service. This thing is unbelievable.

Thanks Mark,

Troy

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09-17-2007 05:38 AM  10 years agoPost 5
iskoos

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Orlando, FL

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Is the green gel double sided mount(generally used for gyro sensors) needed?

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09-17-2007 10:46 AM  10 years agoPost 6
Autoeject

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Ashtabula, OH, USA

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Zeal tape isn't required but it sure is nice stuff. I use it on all my electronics for vibe isolation.

Mark Webber
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09-17-2007 02:42 PM  10 years agoPost 7
iskoos

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Orlando, FL

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So I assume what you are saying is that "it wouldn't be necessary for electric ships but would for sure be useful for gassers." Right?

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09-17-2007 05:06 PM  10 years agoPost 8
Autoeject

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Ashtabula, OH, USA

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I use it on all my helis...fuel or electric.

Mark Webber
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09-17-2007 08:29 PM  10 years agoPost 9
talk the torque

rrApprentice

SA

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Thanks guys

Looks fantastic Chris but I was hoping for something more home depot as I dont want to order and wait 2weeks (I'm in South Africa). Any other ideas of things being used that you can pick up at your local hardware store?

Never got to test fly my AP2000 today as I had a problem with either my tail servo or gyro and the heli did a few piros just before landing but I will open another post to try sort that problem out.

Just as a matter of interest how much are they Chris? My boom is a 22mm diameter. Maybe I can make a plan for now and order one for later

Jason

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09-17-2007 09:37 PM  10 years agoPost 10
tlankford01

rrApprentice

Amarillo, TX 79110

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If you have an extra mount for he horizontal fin that is what I used and made a flat plastic piece drilled two holes and problem solved.

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09-21-2007 12:27 AM  10 years agoPost 11
talk the torque

rrApprentice

SA

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Still havnt got to try out AP 2000 yet. Just been hectic at the moment so I will have to wait till things calm down. Did find a great bracket at the hardware store to mount the sensor.

One other question about the AP 2000. Do you guys switch off the AP 2000 before you come lower than the tree or building levels or do you land with it on?

Regards
Jason

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09-21-2007 01:00 AM  10 years agoPost 12
BigguyOz

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Forster, New South​Wales, Australia

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I leave mine on all the time. There is no dramatic change in trim required when near the ground.

Tony Stott

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09-21-2007 09:31 AM  10 years agoPost 13
Autoeject

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Ashtabula, OH, USA

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I generally takeoff and land with gain on.

Been using higher gain settings on my trex600 lately to practice auto's too. There's not a lot of room between the trees in my yard. Having gain on helps smooth my cyclic inputs. No room for error with an electric when doing autos.

Mark Webber
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09-30-2007 01:37 PM  10 years agoPost 14
talk the torque

rrApprentice

SA

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Hi guys

I did a test flight and another one with my camera on a shoot today, with the sensor operational. It was very overcast and I got to 100% with the gain. I wasnt sure if it would start oscillating with high gain but it never did. Will the gain be more sensitive on sunny days?

If I calibrate the AP2000 in the hover should I first trim the heli to hover or can I just hold the controls to make it hover while I calibrate the auto pilot? The reason I ask is that when I did the later the heli would drift sidewards opposite to the control input I was holding at the time.

I realise getting the auto pilot sensor levels set correctly is important if you are not using the calibrate feature but how critical is the level of the sensor when using the calibrate of the AP2000?

Am I seeing this correctly. If the calibrate function is being used and lets say I was flying in a very mountainous or built up area. If after calibrating I turned the heli through 180 degrees, would the calibrating have made the error twice as bad? I'm asking as I would like to know whether you suggest using the calibrate function or not use it and rather just hold the controls offset when needed?

On my shoot today I had some aggresive glitches when I was quite far out. Not sure if they were radio glitches or oscillations from having the gain at 100% or maybe an interferance between the magneto and AP? I forgot to check the AP screen to check for glitches before I shut down. The engine also seemed to be hunting. Not sure what caused it but could you suggest anything I should check with my instalation of the AP just incase?

Thanks for your help
Regards
Jason

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09-30-2007 01:54 PM  10 years agoPost 15
Autoeject

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Ashtabula, OH, USA

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It is always best to have your heli trimmed for the best hover possible before calibration to end up with the best results.

Leveling the sensor is not so critical with the calibration feature.

You are correct about pirouetting 180 and the resultant error when calibration is done near a strong IR source.

I recently had some aggressive glitches on my gasser, too. Turned out the spark plug was the problem. Champion junk. Replaced with an NGK and all is good. If you've got a tail belt that can sometimes cause issues. I never had any trouble with glitches from my magneto before I switched to CDI.

Also, I'll get those numbers for you today. I'm off to do a shoot, first.

Cheers,

Mark Webber
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09-30-2007 02:00 PM  10 years agoPost 16
Envision

rrVeteran

MI

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100% gain on mine will hardly let me move. I use around 15-20% on sunny days. Here in MI the terrain is different everywhere so I have to calibrate on every flight.

It is subtrimmed to hover with 0%. I usually take flight at 0% and hover about 30' up while I calibrate, it always wants to slightly drift to the left... So I slightly drift right while calibrating and then check, most of the time thats all it takes and it will hold position in any direction. It remains on while landing.

I've always wondered and havent tried it yet. If you calibrated while doing a slow piroette would it blur the calibration image and make it more even?

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09-30-2007 02:21 PM  10 years agoPost 17
talk the torque

rrApprentice

SA

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Thanks very much

Jason

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09-30-2007 06:56 PM  10 years agoPost 18
Autoeject

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Ashtabula, OH, USA

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I've always wondered and havent tried it yet. If you calibrated while doing a slow piroette would it blur the calibration image and make it more even?
Calibration is like a snapshot of the sensor reading. So until you got back to that orientation...

Mark Webber
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10-01-2007 05:47 PM  10 years agoPost 19
AceBird

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Utica, NY USA

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Am I seeing this correctly. If the calibrate function is being used and lets say I was flying in a very mountainous or built up area. If after calibrating I turned the heli through 180 degrees, would the calibrating have made the error twice as bad?
Absolutely yes! IMO it is best to calibrate when conditions are near perfect and never calibrate again. Use your trim to offset when conditions are skewed. That way you are always working off from center. Some prefer not to do that, I guess it is choice.
I've always wondered and havent tried it yet. If you calibrated while doing a slow piroette would it blur the calibration image and make it more even?
It might not calibrate at all. If I remember a post from Angelos correctly, the signal has to be some what stable before the APi will accept the values as real. The issue would be if you were in a hover but not stable you would not want the APi to take a snap shot of the sensors while the heli is tipped for that instant.

There is no blurring with analogue signals they come in at near the speed of light. You couldn’t spin the heli fast enough to create a blur.

Ace
What could be more fun?

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10-02-2007 11:34 AM  10 years agoPost 20
Morris

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Hong Kong

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Mark, Ace,

Just wondering how far the IR reaches to take that snapshot for calibration? I am in HK where I do not easily find a boundaryless flat land.

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Scorpion Power Scorpion Power
HelicopterAerial Photography and Video › Proud AP 2000 owner
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