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Hirobo Embla - SRB Quark - Lepton
› Loose Lepton tails
09-15-2007 01:19 PM  10 years agoPost 1
spectrapilot

rrApprentice

Brisbane , Australia

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OK folks I hear about the Lepton tails being a problem, I'm still building mine, I have 68mm tail blades,JR 770 with JR 3400 servo on the tail. Now how bad is the problem? how aggressive are your tail slides or backward flights to cause the tail to break loose.Even a Rappy 50 will lose it's tail with a 401 if your too aggressive. What set ups are folks using and what are some of the remedies tried to fix it. Is it really that big a problem, come on lets get some meaning full discussion here

I need facts

cheers Kev

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09-15-2007 01:51 PM  10 years agoPost 2
Tday

rrKey Veteran

Needham, MA

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hello spectra...from my experience, there are two tail issues. The first, tail authority, can be readily fixed with 68mm blades and a good gyro. By good, I personally think that means a fast servo as the key, so I went with the logictech 6100t with the blazing fast .05sec transit time paired servo. There is no chance you'll loose the tail unless you bog the head while doing a hard tail maneuver. It's fantastic. I think a lot of folks are doing well with a 401 and other servos...I just didn't want to compromise on the tail.

The other issue is tail vibration which is hard to smooth out which happens on my leptons if my head speed is high--i.e. over 3000rpm.

Good luck with your ship...this thing is really a great heli!
Tom

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09-17-2007 07:25 AM  10 years agoPost 3
husafreak

rrKey Veteran

Livermore, NorCal

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Hi Tday, what settings are ou running on your 6100? I'm on the highest/3d/less than 7/and gain as high as possible. Note that too much gain gets a nasty tail wag oscillation, kinda scary. As it is it is great until it lets go (usually with a little headspeed bog!) But saying bogging the head will loose the tail is kinda hard to swallow, I'm just not that good!

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09-18-2007 12:45 AM  10 years agoPost 4
Tday

rrKey Veteran

Needham, MA

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OK---here's what I have. I use a futaba 6 star wheel at the third hole. The idea is to have limits over 100%---actually as close to 140 as possible to reduce torque requirements on the servo. Mine are 120/110.

I run in 3D mode, and heading hold all the time---30 to 32% when i'm running at ~3000 rpm's (5s), 34% when I was running ~2700 rpm's (4s).

Performance mode is high
Smoothness is 4%---not sure why I care, but that's what it's set at.
Center trim 0---didn't do anything with this.
JR receiver---since I'm using a DX7.

For mounting the servo I used the tie method---works great. See this post. http://runryder.com/helicopter/t307...logictech+servo

There is a real premium on getting no drift in normal mode/no rudder input by adjusting tail servo linkage...just under 7mm spacing at the tail hub.

By tail letting go with bogging, I've only had that when I do a huge inverted, fast, tail first loop and punch it on the way up. It turned a quarter turn---and all I did was ease off the collective and get it straightened out.

It's really a great tail system!

Tom

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09-18-2007 08:03 AM  10 years agoPost 5
husafreak

rrKey Veteran

Livermore, NorCal

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Thanks Tday, I just checked, everything is close to what you have but my gain was much higher, I may reduce the gain a little bit. I have the DX7, 7000 Rx, Readyheli rudder servo mount and 68 m CF blades. Settings are: Tx rudder travel 120 L & R, Gyro travel also 120 L & R, Gain 50% in Tail Lock, manually trimmed in normal mode in hover, Center Trim 0, 3D, Highest performance, Smooth 5%, JR Rx. But I noticed that the Medusa BEC I have is set to 6V, so the voltage at the gyro is 5.9V and this is going to the servo. The manual shows 5.5V for the gyro and 4.8V for the servo. I dont know what 5.9V will do to this system performance. I do know that Align makes a step down for the servo that is light and cheap. I have been using the stock blades and 24T pinion on a Kora 15-14 up to now but I just put on a set of MAH blades and a 23T pinion but havn't flown it yet. If I still loose the tail violently with the new blades I may switch my Medusa to 5V and see if that has any effect. By the way, the tail usually lets go doing tail slides! Anyway, thanks for validating my settings.

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09-18-2007 11:42 AM  10 years agoPost 6
Tday

rrKey Veteran

Needham, MA

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I also have the medusa 6v and it works great for me. I sure, however, that a gain that is higher than what I've put in there is too much. When on an align 600, I think it was, we ended up with the gain in the 20's. So take the gain down to 32 and see what happens. This combo really works for me and I fly it hard, to be honest. (I think jeremy at rchover got them from henry caldwell on the phone when I was setting it up. He clearly flies it hard...so give it a go.)

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09-19-2007 08:01 AM  10 years agoPost 7
husafreak

rrKey Veteran

Livermore, NorCal

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Thanks, I'm glad 6V is working for you, I flew it only once today gain down to 40, it did wag once or twice. I think the MAH blades are a little improvement but they still load the motor, shoulda gone for 5S!! It flies terrific though.

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09-19-2007 12:03 PM  10 years agoPost 8
Tday

rrKey Veteran

Needham, MA

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I think 40 is still way to high...btw, when flying a 611 on a raptor 90 I have the gain at 36 as does everyone at our field. The high gain numbers are good settings on, say, a 401 and other gyros, but not on the 6100T. Try 34 or 36. It's not as if the gain is the "holding" power setting, it's a setting that allows the gyro to hold without over correcting (the tail wagging).

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