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T-REX 450 › Cannot get solid Hover...
09-13-2007 05:38 PM  10 years agoPost 1
jimmyack

rrApprentice

Singapore

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Hi,
I am trying to achieve a solid hover on my Trex V2 but however it seems that the heli always wander around, no matter how much trim I apply to correct the drifts.

I find the trex very twitchy even though I used the paddle weights. Is it a particularity of the heli due to it's size or am i missing something. On my Older raptor 50, i was able to get some decent hovering, but now the TREX 450 is just refusing to do so.

Also, can someone give me a recommendation on the throttle curve for just normal sports flying. I read somewhere that the engines only give decent power above 80% but I am using about 60% only.

Thanks for the input.

Cheers

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09-13-2007 06:24 PM  10 years agoPost 2
TomRex

rrElite Veteran

West Palm Beach Join Date: 12-28-2005

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You will find that a higher head speed will smooth things out. The Align esc and motor, a good batt, 13t pinion at around 90% autta get things going. At the same time get the heli 4' up for hover not 4"!

Ignorance is the absence of facts.Stupid is lacking the intellectual capacity to comprehend the fact

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09-13-2007 06:39 PM  10 years agoPost 3
Zaneman007

rrElite Veteran

Texas - USA

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If it is twitchy, add some expo or take a look at your set up. I would check to see it the control rods are the proper distance from the center of the servo horn, per the manual. If they are two far out you end up adding mechanical gain. This can cause the heli to be twitchy.

It is a little more difficult to set up a eCCPM on a Trex than a mCCPM on a Raptor.

If you do not have a swash plate leveler, get one. IMO, it is a must for a eCCPM machines. If not your swash will not be level and you'll have interaction between the servos.

A well set up Trex 450, will hold a hover in the wind.

Old Guys Rule!

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09-13-2007 06:40 PM  10 years agoPost 4
Zephan

rrApprentice

Lompoc, CA

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Higher headspeed will make the heli more responsive in cyclic. You will not be able to (and should not attempt to) "trim" a heli into a stable hover. You will always have to make inputs to maintain a hover. A heli is inherently unstable, unlike planks, and will always need to be flown. If you try and use trim to obtain a stable hover, then you will find the trim working against you in a different orientation and/or different conditions.

You will find a smaller heli, like the Trex450, "twitchyer" than a larger heli, like the Raptor50 (I have both). IMO, the best bet to "tame" the Trex450's cyclic response, is to reduce the amount of cyclic pitch and/or use some/more expodential. What cyclic pitch are you using? What expo? If you are talking about sensitivity in collective, then reduce your pitch range. What pitch range are you using?


Trex600N & Trex450SE... DAMN! Another radio glitch!

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09-13-2007 11:14 PM  10 years agoPost 5
Kiwi King

rrApprentice

Next to the water heater, behind the trash can.

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I had the same issues, consider going through the heli and checking the ball links to make sure there aren't any tight ones, they all should be silky smooth. I did this and it helped a lot. Adding expo, and flybar weights may help too.

KK

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09-13-2007 11:32 PM  10 years agoPost 6
dkshema

rrMaster

Cedar Rapids, IA

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I hope you're not trying to get your chopper to hover still, in one place, without any input from you...it ain't ever going to happen. Hovering a heli in one spot is difficult, and requires constant attention to the sticks.

-----
Dave

* Making the World Better -- One Helicopter at a time! *

Team Heliproz

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09-14-2007 02:12 AM  10 years agoPost 7
jimmyack

rrApprentice

Singapore

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Thanks for the input, I will check as advised and will try to increase the headspeed. I am already using 20% EXPO But I just find the heli too twitchy for my liking. I am not really into 3D and prefer nice realistic flying, but right now I feel the the heli is overly sensitive. I will try to reduce cyclic response to see how things turn out eventually.

It is definitely more twitchy/nervous than my previous Raptor 50. It requires constant stick input to maintain a good hover so I just want to make sure that it is not my heli which is wrongly set up but rather one of the traits of having such a small heli.

Thanks for the input again.

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09-14-2007 02:15 AM  10 years agoPost 8
slider46

rrProfessor

Ocala Florida

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It's twitchy due to the size. It sounds like your not used to smaller helis like the trex but once you do adjust to the trex, your going to find the rappy very tame and easier to fly....

Tom..... No "D" flying....

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09-14-2007 02:21 AM  10 years agoPost 9
dkshema

rrMaster

Cedar Rapids, IA

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Your Trex isn't going to fly like your Raptor 50. It's going to be "twitchy" and it's going to react a lot faster than your 50. Get used to flying it, it's not that bad!

-----
Dave

* Making the World Better -- One Helicopter at a time! *

Team Heliproz

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09-14-2007 02:33 AM  10 years agoPost 10
jimmyack

rrApprentice

Singapore

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Ok,
I guess you guys are right, I am just not used to fly such a small heli and I think that I probalbly need more hours flying it to get a good hold of it. Just watched a video of how dany szabo flies the TREX 450, OH MAN! this heli can do incredible acrobatics and is flips over with such speed!!

Thanks again.

Cheers

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09-14-2007 03:19 AM  10 years agoPost 11
jimboflies

rrElite Veteran

Beaumont, Texas;

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Do you fly with your thumbs or do you fly by pinching the sticks?
If by your thumbs it will be 50% more twitchy!

EP8 EX twinring frame
Quick of Japan
EP8v2 EX
EP9

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09-14-2007 03:24 AM  10 years agoPost 12
cooperd

rrApprentice

Everett

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I just took my first flight with a Raptor 50 after flying a Trex 450 for the last 18 months. WOW! Now that thing is really stable and compared to the Blade CP I thought I had died and gone to heaven when I moved up to the 450.

I'd second the comments made about the Trex not being able to hover without pretty much constant input...maybe 3 to 4 seconds mine will do hands off.

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09-14-2007 04:34 AM  10 years agoPost 13
jimmyack

rrApprentice

Singapore

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Just came back from some practice and after upping the Headspeed, I get a more stable hover but still needs some constant input from me. Flying hands off is a complete NO NO but at least getting slighty better hang of it.

What kind of throttle curve do you guys use? Upper 80% throttle or less? My hovering throttle is about 70% using the 12tooth on the new 3700KV motor from align. Is it too low?

Also, do you guys think that the TREX is able to do some F3C or is it gonna be real hard?

BTW jimboflies, I use the pinching grip.

Cheers.

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09-14-2007 06:04 AM  10 years agoPost 14
dkshema

rrMaster

Cedar Rapids, IA

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Your motor and battery will be happier if you run greater than 80% throttle across the board. Many just max out the curve to a flat 100%.

-----
Dave

* Making the World Better -- One Helicopter at a time! *

Team Heliproz

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09-14-2007 07:01 AM  10 years agoPost 15
Tail_BoomStrike

rrKey Veteran

N.A.

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If you have a properly set up machine, it wouldn't be so much twitchy, even for its size. I believe you have a lot of interaction on the swash plate. One tool that will help you minimze these interactions, that I know, have work very well for me, is to get yourself trueblood swash leveling tool. Since I used that tool I am able to let my 450, hover by itself, without touching the controler, for 3-5 sec, on clam wind.

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09-14-2007 07:15 AM  10 years agoPost 16
jimmyack

rrApprentice

Singapore

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I just discovered a made a big blunder. I mounted all my ball links the other way round. I made sure that all the ball link have the small A facing inwards rather than outwards!!!!! That migh be giving some slop in the head!!

So basically I will have to redo all my pitch settings and adjustments!!!!!! Hopefully that will give me a better hover.

I will also try to use higher engine % to see the difference

Stuuup mistake!!

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09-14-2007 01:09 PM  10 years agoPost 17
dkshema

rrMaster

Cedar Rapids, IA

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Having the balls the "other way" around won't add slop to the links. If you notice, the links only snap on and off easier if you have the "A" facing out.

You're flying a much smaller machine than you're used to flying. When i first started flying my Trexes three years ago, I too, thought they were overly sensitive and uncontrollable. It took some serious flight time on them to get used to their feel.

If you want the "A" on the outside, turn the link on one end out a half turn, turn the link on the opposite end in a half turn. The "A" will be facing out, the rod will be the same length as it was.

-----
Dave

* Making the World Better -- One Helicopter at a time! *

Team Heliproz

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09-14-2007 01:51 PM  10 years agoPost 18
helimatt

rrElite Veteran

Lafayette, IN

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Trex 450's can fly very stable (not necessarily tame), but simply have much less inertia (mass) than the larger helicopters. Therefore small disturbances, turbulence created by the helicopter itself, and small control inputs will make the helicopter move off faster than with a bigger bird.

You can get it to fly comfortably, so if you are proficient with the .50 sized, after some stick time on the 450 you should find it becomes quite nice to fly. If not, you may want to carefully scruitinize your setup. Getting somebody else with a lot of 450 experience (watch the way their 450 flies to confirm that they also know how to set one up) to go over yours, and perhaps fly it to check it out.

I'd bump your throttle to at least 80% or higher when you are flying. Reduce pinion size if the headspeed is too high- the motor and lipos will be happier and run more efficiently.

Main blade design, paddle design, throws, cyclic servo quality (slop, response time), and setup will all have sizeable impact on the way the 450 flies. Good luck- you'll have a ball with it!

Never, ever, ever, ever give up.

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T-REX 450 › Cannot get solid Hover...
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