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HelicopterMain Discussion › Driver me nuts
08-12-2007 08:05 AM  10 years agoPost 21
alien

rrApprentice

Middletown N.Y.

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Hi everone Well here is the verdict on this mess. I went tru and took apart every wire on the heli that goes to the RX. And then I put then back one by one and each one as I put it back I tested the system for glitches. But After 4 hrs I got no were. Then I did the wires on the gyro which by the way is a 401. And I notice that the wire coming from the gyro to the rudder servo when moved a certain way the glitchen would stop. So I took the gyro off the front of the heli and put it on the rear of the heli so now it is closer to the rudder servo and that wire is not ran along the side of the heli now the power and RX wire coming out of the gyro is ran along the side of the heli to the front to the RX It looks like the glitchen is gone now when I touch it with metal nothing glitches. But I did notice if the wires coming out of the gyro are eather moved the wrong way the glitchen starts again This is so strange Any body out there have a answer for this one Cause I dont. But as of now after I used ties to hold the wires down along the heli and shorten up the one to the rudder servo There is no glitchen. I hope I got it. Good Luck All comments Well come.

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08-12-2007 09:00 AM  10 years agoPost 22
Hamo

rrVeteran

Ireland

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I bet you have a bad connection in the little connector from the battery, the black wire. Try a new barrety if you have one. Or have a good look at the 2 pin connector. Use a needle to take out the little crimp out of the plastic housing and check if the wire is clean, should be copper colour. The best cure is to cut off the battery wires near the connector and solder directly. If the black wire is corroded it will be difficult to solder. Good luck. Hamo

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08-12-2007 07:01 PM  10 years agoPost 23
alien

rrApprentice

Middletown N.Y.

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Hi Hamo are you talking about the wire that comes from the switch to the battery to the RX. I did put another battery on and it did the same thing . But are you saying that that black wire will cause the glitchen to the gyro and when I move the gyro wires around it glitches. I am wondering now Just wondering could the Gyro be causing the glitching could it be picking up a rf signal is it possible. Maybe someone out there would know I was thing of sending the gyro to futaba to get it check out what you guiys out there think. Any comments welcome Thank You

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08-12-2007 10:03 PM  10 years agoPost 24
Butch

rrVeteran

New York

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If I remember correctly, there was discussion some time ago about the tail drive system creating radio interference. Grease or lube solved the problem.
Try a search here on your Bell 47.

The Whirlybug Bit Me!

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08-13-2007 02:05 AM  10 years agoPost 25
alien

rrApprentice

Middletown N.Y.

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going Real nuts Now HELP ME PLEASE

Hi Everone ok here it is the TT50 ran real good at Idle ran smooth no glitchen. So after a good warm up I bring the thottle up about quarter the way up no problem then I moved it a hair more and then there it is all the servos going nuts The thottle servo was going crazy making the engine rev up then down. But when I throttle back it all stops. The Blades were not even turning yet I was holding them so I know its not got any thing to do with that . HELPPPPPP ME Please . Come on guys someone tell me what the hack is going on. It would be nice to Fly this heli yet.

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08-13-2007 02:38 AM  10 years agoPost 26
Leif

rrElite Veteran

USA

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Since you are still trying to troubleshoot this, try to eliminate the gyro from the equation (no flight involved).

Disconnect the gyro from the RX completely. If you have a servo extension wire, run that from the Rx to the tail servo. If not simply leave the tail servo disconnected. Then start the engine and try your experiment again. If it is a loose connection in the gyro, the vibrations from the engine could be feeding back into the electronics and causing the glitching.

If this test shows no glitching, it's time to send the GY401 back to Futaba for repair. If not, then you know it isn't the gyro. I would look at the antenna next. It is possible that you have a broken antenna connection (especially true if you're running a base-loaded antenna as some of these tend to break where the wire feeds into the antenna base).

Other than this, look for any cuts or damage to any of your servo wires. They are sometimes hard to see. You could also try eliminating the servos one by one while doing the engine-running test until you reach the throttle servo.

Leif

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08-13-2007 02:52 AM  10 years agoPost 27
alien

rrApprentice

Middletown N.Y.

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Hi Lief Thank you I will try all that. I did diconnect the gyro but still glitchen. Could it be the bearings in the engine. I am hearing a slight tinking noise from the engine like a high pitch noise. Like a metal noise it comes and goes and it is idleing too.

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08-13-2007 12:09 PM  10 years agoPost 28
Hamo

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Ireland

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The battery wire has a 2 pin plastic connector. Using a needle, lift up the plastic catch and take out the little metal crimp and check that the wire is clean. If it's corroded it will be blueish black. To be sure of a good connection here, cut the connector off the battery and join the wires directly. A bad contact here is responsible for all types of problems. Glitch, gyro losing its settings etc. Hamo

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08-13-2007 12:44 PM  10 years agoPost 29
Leif

rrElite Veteran

USA

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I am hearing a slight tinking noise from the engine like a high pitch noise.
Yes, that could be bearings in the beginning stages of failure. Another possible issue with the engine is if the fan backs off the crankshaft then the crankshaft pin can rub against the backplate. Considering how much you've done so far it would probably not be a bad idea to change the engine bearings.

Leif

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08-13-2007 03:55 PM  10 years agoPost 30
pgoelz

rrVeteran

Rochester MI

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Your description of the noise sounds very much like what I would expect vibrating metal to metal to sound like. If it is truly coming from inside the engine it is not a good thing but probably not responsible for your radio issues. For bearings to cause radio interference they have to connect and disconnect two conductive masses that are separate from each other (like mainshaft and frame, for example). Unless the only electrical connection to the engine is through its crankshaft, I would not expect bad bearings to be the source of your RF issues. Have you tried bonding the engine to the other metallic structures like the tail and the head assembly?

But if the source of the noise is outside the engine it could easily explain things.

Paul Goelz
Rochester MI USA
http://www.pgoelz.com

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08-13-2007 04:07 PM  10 years agoPost 31
alien

rrApprentice

Middletown N.Y.

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hi leif and everone Well I put my order in for new bearings they should be here on tuesday or wed. I hope that this fixes the problem. I will be sending my gyro back to futaba to get it check out along with my trasmmiter. I am trying to leave no stone unturned. I tell you guys something though in all the yrs I have been in R/C which is about 25 yrs. I have never had a bad glitchen problem like this. Well like I said before anyone would like to charm in on this problem come on be my guess ok. Just got back in from Dialysis so real tired so I will be back on later to look for any more commets. To all my fellow Pilots. Thanks so far everone been a big help so far.

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08-13-2007 04:21 PM  10 years agoPost 32
alien

rrApprentice

Middletown N.Y.

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Hi Pgoelz What do you mean by bonding the engine to the tail and head assembly. Can you explain how to do this. I did though checked ever nut bolt and screw. and I look at the whole frame and nothing check the motor mount and still nothing . Like I said will to try anything just to get this bird in the air. Thanks

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08-13-2007 04:24 PM  10 years agoPost 33
JeffM1999

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Erie, CO

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I think he means running a wire from the engine mount to the boom/ etc to ground any potential sources of static discharge.

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08-13-2007 06:52 PM  10 years agoPost 34
pgoelz

rrVeteran

Rochester MI

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Yes to using a wire to connect all parts of the heli together. But not to prevent static discharge. The idea is to prevent vibrating metal to metal connections from intermittently connecting and disconnecting conducting masses that are not otherwise electrically connected.

If your engine has bad bearings AND IF the only electrical contact between the engine and some other conductive portion of your heli is through the crankshaft / clutch / starter shaft, then the bad bearings MAY cause glitches. If so, it should go away if you connect the engine crankcase to all other major metallic portions of your heli. Since you seem to be able to duplicate this glitching condition with the engine running but on the ground, it should be easy to use something like a clip lead from engine to tail or other metallic structure.

The same applies to mainshaft bearings.... if the only thing that connects the mainshaft and head to the rest of the heli / engine is the mainshaft bearings, a bad bearing can cause glitches. This is harder to deal with because it is difficult to get a solid electrical connection to a rotating shaft.

Paul Goelz
Rochester MI USA
http://www.pgoelz.com

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08-13-2007 08:13 PM  10 years agoPost 35
Hamo

rrVeteran

Ireland

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I had a bad interference problem. When I touched the glow plug heater on the glow extension, the servos moved. When I connected the starter lead to the 12V battery, again the servos moved. While trying to start the engine, ie starter motor turning, I could see the tail servo wire move left / right. Touching aything metallic near the helicopter caused servo movement. It was all caused by a corroded battery wire. When I replaced this wire, all interference, glitching stopped completely. Hamo

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08-13-2007 10:41 PM  10 years agoPost 36
alien

rrApprentice

Middletown N.Y.

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Hi everone Its so great that we have RR. All you guys out there have been so helpful I think its great . Just want to say a BIG THANK YOU to everone. I tell you guys though I will hunt this problem down. If not to tired tonight I will try runing wire and see what happens . I am also going to check the battery wires again I may have over look something I will be back later to let you guys know what I found. O yea if anyone has or know about changeing the bearings in a TT50 please let me know. Again Thanks everone.

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08-14-2007 04:25 PM  10 years agoPost 37
alien

rrApprentice

Middletown N.Y.

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Hi Everone I was just thinking If any one out there knows of a any kind of devies that can be bought to stop Glitchen and were can one buy it .

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08-14-2007 04:51 PM  10 years agoPost 38
JeffM1999

rrApprentice

Erie, CO

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Electric guys use ferrite rings between the ESC and the rx to help decrease RF, but I am not sure where you would put it. Maybe put one on every servo wire? I am not convinced that would solve your problem though. Did you ever check the battery wires for corrosion like someone suggested?

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08-14-2007 04:52 PM  10 years agoPost 39
bbeverlie

rrKey Veteran

Hudson,New​Hampshire.USA

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*Ferrite Ring Glitch Suppressor*

Use this Ferrite ring to eliminate glitches caused by your ESC.
Just wrap your "ESC to Rx" lead 5 to 6 times
around the ring. Installs in minutes. Connector disassembly is not needed. Weighs only 3.5 grams.

http://www.techmodelproducts.com/products.htm

IN STOCK $2.29

I don't think this is a magic bullet but may be worth
a try for the cost

AMA#846952

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08-14-2007 04:54 PM  10 years agoPost 40
JeffM1999

rrApprentice

Erie, CO

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haha, great minds think alike...

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Scorpion Power Scorpion Power
HelicopterMain Discussion › Driver me nuts
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