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HelicopterEngines Plugs Mufflers Fuel › Engine break In
01-18-2003 11:02 AM  15 years agoPost 1
Kobinger

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USA

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I have a OS50 comming should I break it in on the test stand with a propeller? and the fuel I will use to fly the heli with? I actually prefer this methode... over the conventional way of break in a motor in the heli right from the start,

Richard

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01-18-2003 01:12 PM  15 years agoPost 2
excellone

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Arlington, Virginia

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In the heli from the start with CP30%. Start start at the manufacture's suggested needle settings to get it flying. Fly it the first 30 times without over loading the motor.


George

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01-18-2003 04:56 PM  15 years agoPost 3
sharam

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Northern California - Fly at Morgan Hill Field

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My experience is that OS engines do not need a long break in cycle. Put it in the heli and run a gallon through it on the rich side. Lean out gradually.

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01-18-2003 11:05 PM  15 years agoPost 4
Gearhead

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Vt

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remove the carb, take the side of the carb off and clean it out with Wd40, I found some junk in my OS50 carb !! remove the backing plate and spray a large amount of Wd40, do the same in the glow plug hole, do this a couple time while moving the piston up and down, and spray Wd in where the carb mounts, use a lot of Wd, when done clean out the Wd with rubbing alcohol, use a hair dryer to evaporate the alcohol, now use some 2 cycle, or castor oil to lude your motor,,, now put the backing plate back on,,,

pre brake-in,,, as I do it,,,,
now sit down and watch TV and turn over your motor just a long as you can, use plenty of oil, an hour will be long enough,,, now take a couple nuts and mount them on your crank shaft threads, lock the 2 nuts together (not to tight), now fill the motor close to half full of oil or castor, take a cordless drill and turn over the crank shaft slowly for a while 5/10 minutes, you may need to add oil, now you can slowly raise the speed of you drill, after a while stop drain the oil and clean the out side of your motor with rubbing alcohol,,, I know this is a messy procedure, but your motor will start quicker the first time because your ring will have started to brake in, and your motor will brake in quicker and have a better life too.. and run it very very rich on it's first tank of fuel !!

Jim

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01-19-2003 01:02 AM  15 years agoPost 5
rcpilotsteve

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BC Canada

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Man ,that's quite the process Jim
Got any engines forsale

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01-19-2003 01:18 AM  15 years agoPost 6
whrlybrd

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Little Rock, AR

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Ron Lund has a good link to break in on his site. Also Steve Campbell visited this subject in Model Helicopter Technique one or two issues ago and provided excellent advice. Also you may want to try the search feature as there have been a number of good threads on this issue in the last year. One thing I note is that there seems to be many ways to skin this beast and as many opinions...

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01-19-2003 02:25 AM  15 years agoPost 7
Gearhead

rrMaster

Vt

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no, no motors for sale,,,, I used to run RC boats, (OPS 45s and OPS 90s), RC racing boat motors are really hot motors and they need to be broken in very very carefully (my OPS 90 was rated at 22000 RPM) , some boaters would disassemble their motors, clean them, lap their piston and liners, and lap the bearings on the connecting rod, and reassemble them, but boater run 40/55% and higher Nitro...

Jim

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01-19-2003 03:03 AM  15 years agoPost 8
rcpilotsteve

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BC Canada

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I like to install my motors after I am satisfied with the reliability. Usually involves a prop on a bench.
I have two different procedures for mine. One for ringed the other for ABC.
Ringed= quite rich limit the amount of heat. Start run stop etc etc
ABC= rich (not slobering) the goal here is to get the engine hot quite fast. I usually use a heat gun myself and warm the cylinder up before the first start.
Ringed engines (which I like) on the bench for sure. ABC You could safely install and run. Light on it's feet or gentle hover. Both engines should not be brought to full power (leaning out) in the first gallon.
I like Jim's routine, sounds like a lot of care.
Too kewl!!!!

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01-19-2003 04:31 AM  15 years agoPost 9
KC

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WA

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01-19-2003 05:31 AM  15 years agoPost 10
Gearhead

rrMaster

Vt

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I do agree that it takes more than a just a few gallons of fuel to properly brake in a glow motor, mot people wont do it though. the lure of FFF is to great !!


Jim

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01-19-2003 08:55 AM  15 years agoPost 11
KC

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WA

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01-19-2003 07:46 PM  15 years agoPost 12
Gearhead

rrMaster

Vt

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yeeeeaup, I miss read the 30 tank as gallons, sorry, "da",,, I agree the longer you brake in your motor the longer your motor will last,,, I edit my last post !!


Jim

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01-19-2003 08:56 PM  15 years agoPost 13
rcpilotsteve

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BC Canada

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With the tolerances in todays engines, if you can stick with the break in process for an entire gallon of juice you'll be ok. Anything much past that and your just shining the inside of the wall. I also don't run that krazy 30% fuel either lol
What do you all recommend for % of nitro for break-in?

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01-19-2003 11:58 PM  15 years agoPost 14
KC

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WA

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HelicopterEngines Plugs Mufflers Fuel › Engine break In
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