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Other › Do you use aluminim or the steel tail rotor hub setup
01-28-2007 04:27 AM  10 years agoPost 1
gtxkid

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Gulf Breeze Florida

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What is the best one to use.
I am having problems with the steel one, way too much friction.
Greg

Futaba 14Mz / 1300mm Multi rotor / Logo 10

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01-28-2007 09:47 AM  10 years agoPost 2
lloyd

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Perth,Australia (South African)

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Hi

I had the upgrade (M3052) hub with thrust bearings but gave me problems.Picked up a BAD BUZZ.I then switch back to the aluminium..............

lloyd

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01-28-2007 01:30 PM  10 years agoPost 3
awa

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Germantown, MD - USA

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M3052

Lloyd,

I've purchased one of the M3052 thrust bearing assemblies. Have not installed it yet. Am wondering what you meant by a bad buzz. Did you get a vibration or an audible sound or glitching or all of the above?

Regards,

awa

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01-28-2007 04:30 PM  10 years agoPost 4
lloyd

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Perth,Australia (South African)

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.
Everybody raves about the upgrade and it works but i guess im the unlucky one.........
I picked up vibration and an audible buzzing sound that i just could not get to buzz off................

Lloyd

electrics DONT need to auto

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01-28-2007 05:29 PM  10 years agoPost 5
awa

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Germantown, MD - USA

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Thanks Lloyd. Will test carefully whenever I get around to installing. Which will probably be when I first experience issues with the stock setup.

gtxkid,

I'm using what appears to be an aluminum assembly. It works good. Though, when I bought the heli used, there were bearings in the assembly that had issues - hence my purchase of the M3052 thrust bearing assembly in anticipation of future such issues with the stock setup. I replaced the bearings having issues and all has worked well. Have apprx. 75-100 flights on the heli. When you mention there is too much friction do you mean there is resistance to rotating the blades/bladeholders as occurs during flight?

awa

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02-02-2007 09:13 PM  10 years agoPost 6
Jag72

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South of Boston

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Aluminum vs. the steel one..

I have 4 logos and 2 of them have the steel(logo 14's) and 2 have the aluminum hubs(logo 10's)...the logo 14's seem to sling blade grips frequently during flight when I used the stock hubs...had to go with the steel thrust assemblies for those...but the stock ones work just fine on my logo 10's...I think it's simply because I turn 95mm tails on the 14's and it just puts too much stress on the aluminum hub...I slung the blade/grip 3 times in flight..

if anyone is looking to trade off a steel hub for some aluminum ones let me know...I'd gladly trade

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02-03-2007 01:48 AM  10 years agoPost 7
gtxkid

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Gulf Breeze Florida

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Yes
Friction like little snug to turn the blade grip on the bearings.
Not the way i have had them before, spin freely.

Futaba 14Mz / 1300mm Multi rotor / Logo 10

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02-03-2007 05:50 AM  10 years agoPost 8
scott sr

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SEAFORD

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I would use the metal update instead of the original aluminum one I had a lot of guys talk about there tail rotor blade and grip flying off because the only thing holding the blade grips on with the aluminum one is the screw . With the steel one it has a steel shaft that goes through the blade grip and then the screw is used. JMHO

Scott Sr. ><> ****Support Our Troops**** ><>

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02-03-2007 12:10 PM  10 years agoPost 9
awa

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Germantown, MD - USA

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gtxkid,

Yes the blade grips should turn easily. There is something mechanically going wrong. Check each tail rotor bearing and replace as needed. Check that lock tite didn't flow to places where it should not have flowed causing resistance, etc.

Not sure what others are doing about lubrication. I've been flowing some oil into the tail rotor assembly (as well as into other places) every now and then to keep things moving freely. Good luck.

awa

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02-03-2007 01:39 PM  10 years agoPost 10
gtxkid

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Gulf Breeze Florida

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Have tried new bearings and locktight was a problem i had before.
Used to work good, i do not know what is wrong.
Greg

Futaba 14Mz / 1300mm Multi rotor / Logo 10

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02-03-2007 06:40 PM  10 years agoPost 11
tean

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Gloucestershire,UK

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The thrustraced hubs are mauch safer than the standard ones where the screw is just waiting to shear.
There does however appear to be a bit of a problem with the thrust raced hub in that the shaft is slightly too thick and the bearings are a very tight fit and can jam when being slid on. Usually you can force them on with the end screw, but you'll have a devil of a job ever getting them off again. In some cases, I beleive they could jam before being pushed fully home, giving unequal length to the two halves of the rotor and causing the bad buzzing or vibration that some people have experienced.

The solution to all this is to thin the shaft slightly with some fine sandpaper: just taking the black colouring off is sufficient. This should allow the bearings to slide on easily and avoid any problems.

Logo14 Vbar, Logo500 CSM flybarless, Trex 600 CSM flybarless, 3DMP, Logo10, Lipoly, Mini T, .......

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02-03-2007 09:41 PM  10 years agoPost 12
Motions

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Tallahassee, FL

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I started out with the original aluminum hub and on the 4th flight I slung a grip. I then upgraded to the steel thrust bearing hub.

Very important note, if you use the stock aluminum hub, make some custom screws to hold the grips in. I found the exact measurement to be 13.4mm which allows the screw to go all the way into the hub.

_______
Scott M
Team Mikado USA

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02-04-2007 08:27 AM  10 years agoPost 13
lloyd

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Perth,Australia (South African)

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tean

thanks for that tip,ill give it a go..............

lloyd

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02-04-2007 02:00 PM  10 years agoPost 14
awa

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Germantown, MD - USA

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gtxkid,

Sounds like you still have bearing issues. Perhaps another possibility is that the blade holder screw is bent. That might happen during a crash or if the tail rotor blades contacted the ground while spinning. Has a crash event or tail blades seriously touching the ground event occurred since the rotor was last working fine? If not, I'd suspect one or more bearings. Otherwise it may be a bent blade holder screw or the bearings or both.

Try to break the problem in half - the divide and conquer strategy. Conduct some tests on each tail rotor side independent of the other to see if the resistance problem is occurring on both sides. If the problem is on one side only, conduct some tests to see if the problem is bearings or screw - take bearings from the good side and place in the bad side. If it works ok, it was bearings. If it doesn't yet work ok, take the screw from the good side and place in the bad side. If the problem is on both sides, you'll have to find known good bearings and screws to conduct such tests.

For me, the stock setup has been working good. I wonder, in the case of people that have thrown blades with the stock setup, if the screw had been stressed from a crash or from the tail blade hitting the ground.

tean,

Thanks much for the tip on the thrust bearing upgrade. One day when I do upgrade to it, I will remember your tip and save my self from problems.

awa

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