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Other › Carbon fiber blades.
01-27-2007 09:04 PM  10 years agoPost 1
fox98racing

rrApprentice

Maceo, KY USA

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I just installed a set of carbon fiber blades on my cpp, and wow, I think it is a lot more stable in a hover. All I have been using, are the flat bottom woodies.

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01-27-2007 09:40 PM  10 years agoPost 2
bbeverlie

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Hudson,New Hampshire.USA

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Try the wood sym's they work well too

AMA#846952

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01-28-2007 03:48 AM  10 years agoPost 3
slider46

rrProfessor

Ocala Florida

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And alot less damage to the heli in a crash with the $8.00 woodies...

Tom..... No "D" flying....

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01-28-2007 05:38 AM  10 years agoPost 4
stickyfox

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Rochester, NY - US

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I love carbons. I found them to be cheaper in the long run when I was learning because they can take a beating, unlike the woodies. The only problems I ever had with boom strikes were with plastiblades.

-fox

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01-28-2007 01:48 PM  10 years agoPost 5
toys

rrNovice

Richardson Texas USA

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Where do you find wood sym blades for 8 dollars??
Does the cpp fly better with CF blades than the sym wood blades on the CCP. I know it makes a big difference on my larger helicopters. Just was not sure about the cpp.
Thanks

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01-28-2007 02:32 PM  10 years agoPost 6
gmcullan

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Southbridge, MA

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The carbon fiber blades GENERALLY track better and give more stable flight characteristics. The downside is that while the blades will be OK after a minor "wack", you will bend spindles and main shafts. I flew with the wood symetrical blades until I stopped crashing/hitting anything and everything. Once I went with the carbon fiber blades, I've never looked back. I've had four crashes with the carbon fiber blades and did loads of damage.

1. Backwards stationary flip. Made an aggressive flip and experienced my first and only inflight boom strike. Lost the blades/boom/tail rotor/main shaft/feathering shaft/flybar/landing skids/canopy/two servo gear sets. Altitude was approximately 20 feet above ground.

2. FFF about 10 feet above the ground. Had the oval shaped link that runs from the swashplate to the flybar control cage fail resulting in a total loss of cyclic/collective control. Basically the same damage as "1".

3. Failure of the carbon fiber tail rotor. Split in two sections while in flight causing a piro to impact. Lost main blades/spindle/main shaft/boom/landing skids/flybar.

4. Failure of the carbon fiber tail rotor. (Do you see a pattern here?) Hovering chest high in my kitchen, the tail rotor split into two sections. The heli went into a very violent piro, hit the floor, and did a fantastic "funky chicken". Lost the main rotor blades/ tail rotor/tail boom/main shaft/spindle/flybar/one servo gear set.

So the bottom line? I fly the carbon fiber blades for the performance and flight advantages. But I also have to accept the fact that if component failure or dumbthumbs causes me to "stuff" in the heli, there is going to be quite the shopping list of damaged parts that need replacement.

Gerry Cullan,
Gaui 200, 255; T-Rex 250, 450 SE & SA, Mini-Titan, Blade 450

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01-28-2007 03:22 PM  10 years agoPost 7
TonyF

rrApprentice

Southern CA

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I have found, IMHO, that there is very little difference in flight between the E-Flite wood syms and the carbon blades. Now on the woods, make sure you use a heat gun and shrink the covering before installation. They may look like there are no wrinkles, but they will shrink tighter. Be careful not to go overboard and melt a hole in them. This will make the woodies track and fly better.

I have been using the carbon tail blades and have never had a failure of one. Did your's get hit at all before they failed? Also, try some shims between the grips and the center spindle. I use 5 per side. This will prevent any kind of in-flight boom strike and will liven up the response.

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01-28-2007 04:15 PM  10 years agoPost 8
ttsingram

rrVeteran

Lincoln, Ne

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Something I learned from my RC car days years ago. I put in bigger moters and batteries. Then the wheels would just sit and spin. So I put more aggressive tires. Problem solved, kind of. Instead of spinning tires, I would strip gears. I am just starting to get into the E heli thing but I am sure the concept is the same. Make something stronger, something else down the line will break. IE...carbon blades-bent spindle. When I save enough to get my cp I am also going to invest in a couple sets of woodies until I get better. Anyways, just my 2c.

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01-28-2007 04:21 PM  10 years agoPost 9
gmcullan

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Southbridge, MA

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Tony, both failed carbon fiber tail rotors has no incidence of any strike or impact. Both failed straight through the center hole. There are other posters that have had similar experiences with the carbon fiber tail rotor blades. I've gone back to the stock plastic blades.

My in-flight boom strike occurred with the stock head with the Bell/Hiller upgrade. There were three shims per side of the spindle. I now use either the MicroHeli head or the new, HDX300/V2 head on my micro-helis. I've never had an in-flight strike while maneuvering with either of these rotor heads.

While the wooden sysmetrical blades can perform well, there is a greater variance to their weight and cross sections as compared to the carbon fiber blades. I've noticed more favorable flight characteristics with the carbon fiber blades as compared with the wooden blades. As mentioned earlier, I also have to accept that failures or flight errors have the potential to cause more damage to my helis than it I was using the wooden blades.

Definitely, wooden blades is the way to go when learning to fly. And if on a budget, there is nothing wrong or "down" in using a $15.00 set of wooden symetrical blades versus a $30.00 set of carbon fiber blades. I just prefer the carbon fiber main rotor blades at this point of my heli piloting skills.

Gerry Cullan,
Gaui 200, 255; T-Rex 250, 450 SE & SA, Mini-Titan, Blade 450

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01-28-2007 04:49 PM  10 years agoPost 10
fox98racing

rrApprentice

Maceo, KY USA

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gmcullan, I just ordered the carbon fiber tail rotor, I hope it;s not as bad as you say. And do you like the hdx300 v3 head on your blade, and was it an easy upgrade? I have been looking at getting the t-rex 450 S, but just started reading some posts on the HDX450, does anyone here have any experience with this heli? Heli-Direct, says that 90% of parts are interchangable with the t-rex450, and it is about 200 cheaper.

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01-28-2007 05:05 PM  10 years agoPost 11
stickyfox

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Rochester, NY - US

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I have one of those CF tail rotors. It's strictly for ornamental use.

-fox

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01-28-2007 05:42 PM  10 years agoPost 12
chopperdudes

rrApprentice

Toronto, Ontario, Canada

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i've not heard of good things from cf tail blades, ie, hole not centered, terrible balancing etc. i'm using dd and hh gyro now. however, i do find that cf blades perform much better than woodies, less 'fluttering' and better cyclic, i dunno how a back flip would result in inflight boom strike on the cp, i've done lots of those without mechanical faliures. the cf's holds way better in stationary flips and rolls to inverted. the woodies flex alot, and does not track as good. i always fly over grass, and never broke a set of cf blades while crashing on grass.

yes, when learning, i'd suggest you use woodies. but for 3d, use cf strickly.

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01-28-2007 05:45 PM  10 years agoPost 13
gmcullan

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Southbridge, MA

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fox98racing , There may be many that have had no problems with the carbon fiber tail rotor blades. On a personal basis, I now choose not to use them.

My Blade CP has been returned to CP Pro configuration and been "retired"

My HoneyBee CP 2 uses the the MicroHeli head. Powered by a brushless outrunner and controlled by a Sonic ESC, super-skids take care of ground duties. Guidance is by means of my Spektrum DX6 system.

My HDX300 uses the V2 head. This closely approximates a miniature version of a T-Rex 450SE head. This head is very responsive! So much so that for indoor flying I tame it down with a little expo/dual-rate. Again, guidance is by means of my DX6 system. I currently run the 32-tooth tail rotor drive pully. I've just ordered the 40-tooth pully with the thought that a slightly higher tail rotor speed will add some additional crispness to the tail. The HDX300 build would be challenging for a novice with limited build/setup experience. I'm very pleased with my end result but this is definitely NOT a "shake it out of the box and fly it" heli.

I've not built nor flown a HDX450, so I have no comment on them. I have build and flown my T-Rex 450SE. In the months that I've had it, my only maintenance issue has been replacing a main gear that decided to drop some teeth. I probably invested two hours of adjusting and setup for each hour spent in the build. But the end result was a very capable and reliable heli. This thread started with the question of carbon fiber versus wooden main rotor blades. I have to confess that I installed the woodies on the 'Rex fully expecting to "dork-it" in. I've not done so, and the factory supplied woodies have performed as of this writing. While I've enjoyed some mild aerobatics outside, nothing could really be considered "3D". And of course I do hover indoors with my 'Rex.

Yes, the 450SE was "pricy", but I have no regrets in its purchase.

Gerry Cullan,
Gaui 200, 255; T-Rex 250, 450 SE & SA, Mini-Titan, Blade 450

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01-28-2007 05:53 PM  10 years agoPost 14
gmcullan

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Southbridge, MA

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chopperdudes

My in-flight boom strike while attempting a very aggressive stationary back flip was probably a result of less than optimum spindle damping as well as the flex of the stock plastic head.

Similar maneuvering with both the MicroHeli head and the HDX300 V2 head have presented no issues.

Gerry Cullan,
Gaui 200, 255; T-Rex 250, 450 SE & SA, Mini-Titan, Blade 450

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01-28-2007 06:08 PM  10 years agoPost 15
chopperdudes

rrApprentice

Toronto, Ontario, Canada

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Hmmmmm… that’s interesting, cuz I maxed out my swash travel too 100% ail and ele and am still using the stock plastic head, yet I have not had any inflight boomstrikes. in flips/rolls, i go max cyclic. I think you just got lucky

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01-28-2007 08:58 PM  10 years agoPost 16
gmcullan

rrKey Veteran

Southbridge, MA

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<I think you just got lucky>

I think I'd rather have the luck of a winning lottery ticket than the "luck" of a boom strike.

Gerry Cullan,
Gaui 200, 255; T-Rex 250, 450 SE & SA, Mini-Titan, Blade 450

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01-28-2007 10:54 PM  10 years agoPost 17
fox98racing

rrApprentice

Maceo, KY USA

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gmcullan, Thanks for all the input, and advice. I guess I have gotten this thread off topic with the questions about the hdx. There was a mix up in my order, with heli-direct on the tail blades, and I may just cancell the order all together, if they will let me, and stay with the plastic tail blades. I was just buying them for looks anyway. Thanks again to everyone for their advice and comments.

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01-28-2007 11:02 PM  10 years agoPost 18
Eco8gator

rrElite Veteran

Palm Beach, FL

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Hello All

If you are getting boomstrikes with your blade your dampning is not stiff enough and or your HS is not high enough. There is a set of thick washers that come in one of the blade parts bags and I use one of those inbetween the washer that makes contact with the bearing and the oring. It makes the dampning very stiff. I also run a 3700 Kv motor with an 8 tooth pinion at 100% throttle on all points on my throttle curve in idle up mode. I get about 8+ mins of aerobatic flight which includes mostly flips, rolls, ect.

The only mods ive done to the airframe is an aluminum swash(just cause it looks cool) and a DD tail setup using a Maxon RE13 motor (an extreamly high quality coreless motor). Im still expirmenting with this motor but I am very pleased with the results as it seems to handle the abuse much better than the gws edf motors. Im using a cropped 3030 prop and I can fly the piss out of this heli with out the tail blowing out in pretty windy conditions. I figure with all the money I could waste on plates, and dual mounts, and crappy motors I might as well just use a really good motor and be done with it.

This heli does not really need mods mechanically except for the tail and the orings to stiffen the dampning and some neon decals for visibliity. All It needs is the proper electronics package and the correct setup and you will be able to fly the piss out of it.

BTW Im expirmenting with some hornet cp blades that I had around and I think I like them more than the eflight carbon blades. They arent as durable but they are easier on the motor and seem to improve cyclic. I still need to really have it with these blades but so far so good.

Carlo
PS: I painted the blades last night to make them more visible. I guess I really like the TT color scheme but I also like the V Blade Flashers so I guess Ill dub this blade the C-Blade

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01-28-2007 11:31 PM  10 years agoPost 19
fox98racing

rrApprentice

Maceo, KY USA

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I really like the idea of painting the blades, these carbons are hard to see when its spooled up. Is there any special paint you use?

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01-28-2007 11:34 PM  10 years agoPost 20
Eco8gator

rrElite Veteran

Palm Beach, FL

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I just use regular spray enamel.

If you are using the carbons dont paint them. Go to your LHS or crafts store and buy some flashy decal material. They literally glow when your flying around and is much easier than painting. The only reason I painted these hornet blades is the flash looked weird on a white surface. My carbon eflight blades have a one inch thick flash strip on them. And the decal material on the tail really helps visibility too.

Carlo

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