RunRyder RC
 11  Topic Subscribe
WATCH
 3 pages [ <<    <    ( 1 )     2      3     NEXT    >> ] 2395 views
HelicopterAerial Photography and Video › E Heli for AP... Lots of questions
01-27-2007 06:30 PM  10 years agoPost 1
Burnt Offering

rrKey Veteran

Winter Wonder Land, Wasilla Alaska

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Hey Gang,
I'm getting ready to take the plunge and get my first Electric Heli. I have decided on The E620. I have looked at the Joker 2, and see that there is only a couple places where you can get them, and they are almost always sold out, and what that tells me is parts are also hard to come by. I decded on the Raptor as I already have a Raptor 90, and I see that some of the parts are interchangable, very affordable, and there are numerous places to get them. I do not do 3D. I will be only be doing AP with it. I'm sick of the hassle of nitro, and am hoping to faze that out completely. I see all the happy guys on this forum who have dumped their nitros for electrics and I'm ready to do the same. Let me start by saying I know NOTHING about electrics, so I'm looking for advice from all of you who have experience.
I have tons of questions, but I'll start with the basics. What electric engine do you recommend for this application (AP). And the next obvious is what batteries do you recommend, and for AP how many do you need? I'll start there, and will ask more questions later. This heli will not need to carry tons of weight, just a nice snapshot camera, 1.5 pounds or less. Please jump in here with any suggestions you may have.

PM  EMAIL  HOMEPAGE  Attn:RR  Quote
01-27-2007 08:00 PM  10 years agoPost 2
46Taylorcraft

rrKey Veteran

AZ

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

if you're only needing to carry around a 1.5 lb camera my vote is for 550mm equipped Logo 10 or E-Raptor 550 or 620.

Either way make sure you get an AP2000i. I've come to the conclusion that it's a prerequisite if you're doing AP/AV.

Batteries? FlightPower! or if you want to go cheap there's always the A123 cells.

You can't beat the new generation Z-Power motors that Gary at tppacks.com is selling. They run VERY cool and have plenty of power. My Z30A-1100 on my stretched Logo 10 was temped at about 68° last week. That's only about 30° above what the ambient was.

PM  EMAIL  HOMEPAGE  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
01-27-2007 08:18 PM  10 years agoPost 3
Burnt Offering

rrKey Veteran

Winter Wonder Land, Wasilla Alaska

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Whoa! DJ Dude, I hit the motherlode! If I had to choose someone to give me advice my brotha, you would have been one of the ones at the top of my list. Hey bro, I have so many questions, I don't really know where to start. I have already decided to get the E620 Raptor, as I already have TONS of Raptor parts. And you are dead right about the ap2000i. I have one on my Rappy 90 right now, and I'll never have another ship without it. Suffice it to say, I'm fazing out nitro for AP. We all know the obvious reasons I won't even go into.
But I'm a total newb when it comes to electrics, so any advice you and anyone else will be greatly appreciated.
DJ, what do you recommend for an electric motor, you mention the Z power, any particular model #? Is the Z30A-1100 the one you would recommend for the Raptor? And lipos to match, I'm not to terribly concerned about price DJ. I mean within reason. I just don't want to find out later that "Dang, I wish I would have spent another 75.00 gotten so and so motor or batteries!" What length blades do you recommend and what brand?(I'm just starting to hound you dude!) Anyone else, feel free to jump in here too. Thanks in advance!

Kevin

PM  EMAIL  HOMEPAGE  Attn:RR  Quote
01-27-2007 09:39 PM  10 years agoPost 4
Ben-T-Spindle

rrProfessor

Central Illinois

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

I did a few calculations for you using a 10s LiPo. For AP you don’t want 2000 headspeed because it just runs down the battery faster. Something in the 1650-1900 range depending on whether you use 600 or 620 blades and the total weight of the helicopter.

Two proven and reliable motors are the Neu Motors 1912/1.5Y and the Z-Power Z50A-600 (make sure it’s a Z50A and not the old Z50). They both have about the same electrical characteristics.

With an 11t pinion you can set the governor in the 1750-1800 range. With a 12t pinion you can set it in the 1800-1900 range. Don’t use more headspeed than you need.

You need to be aware that the E620 kit comes with very hard dampers that are great for 3D but not really suited for AP work. With these hard dampers the helicopter will tend to wobble at low headspeed. You need some soft dampers for smooth flight. I would suggest you start out with the soft dampers (PV0356) for the smoothest flight. These are standard Raptor 30 V2 dampers.

.

... BTS

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
01-27-2007 10:03 PM  10 years agoPost 5
W4UAV

rrApprentice

Gainesville, FL

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Two proven and reliable motors are the Neu Motors 1912/1.5Y...
I use this motor on my Eraptor 50, Ive used it for almost two years now, still running strong and cool, and I dont have one with the built in fan (couldnt wait, took a prototype)

My converted-from-glow Raptor 50 uses 580mm Mavericks, gets around 1700 headspeed on 8S2P 4000mah packs, I get 8-10 minute flights.

PM  EMAIL  HOMEPAGE  Attn:RR  Quote
01-27-2007 11:28 PM  10 years agoPost 6
TCGliderguy

rrVeteran

Albuquerque, New Mexico

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

I would endorse your decision to get the E620 Raptor..... I hesitated, and lost... in buying the one that Caine Bean had advertised here a few days ago.

You can't beat having readily available factory... and after market parts. There may be "better" machines around, but I have started to look at this like buying a Skil saw. Does it do the job?.... Can I fix it quickly if it is broken?.... Then the Sears version is just fine.... Leave the fancy-schmancy machines (and their associated problems) to the fancy-schmancy people.

I'm putting my converted E-Tiger50 back together, one more time this afternoon, after machining a new motor shaft support bearing block, etc..... My plan is to get a bunch of portfolio pictures shot, and with the revenue from the first paying jobs, I'll be buying a Raptor E620....

Hope this helps!

-Taylor

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
01-28-2007 12:45 AM  10 years agoPost 7
Burnt Offering

rrKey Veteran

Winter Wonder Land, Wasilla Alaska

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

OK This is GREAT info guys, and again many thanks. I have to tell you, I started looking at electrics about 6 months ago, I saw that TT was coming out with an ERaptor specifcally the 620E and decided to wait. I have NEVER had trouble getting parts for my 90, I mean if one place is out, there are several others to get them from, and this is important to me, not to mention their prices are very reasonable.
Now on to more electronics. Again keep in mind, I'm not schooled on E helis. What ESC do I want? Are some of you guys running governors and is that something you have to have? I also see guys having interference from their electric motors. What do I do to remedy that? Is the tail setup on the 620 ok or is there an upgrade I should get?
I'm in Alaska guys, and we are in the death throes of winter right now. No global warming here. Anyway, I have time to get this right. I landed a huge Real Estate account a couple weeks ago, and the guy I met with said that their aerials wouln't start strong til about April. So I will consider any and all suggestions.

PM  EMAIL  HOMEPAGE  Attn:RR  Quote
01-28-2007 12:59 AM  10 years agoPost 8
W4UAV

rrApprentice

Gainesville, FL

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

I went overboard on the ESC and havent regretted it since. I pull about 25-28 amps in a hover which is where it usually stays, its an AP ship after all. However I chose the Kontronik 55-10-32, a 55-70 amp ESC. I love it, I did read somewhere their customer service is not good, the product is great. When RCheli magazine reviewed the E550 they used a Castle Creations HV85, overkill too, but if you can keep the ESC happy and cool (on the inside, itll def. be cool on the outside up there!)
itll make your AP life easier. Same with the battery packs, if you can get higher rated packs (20C) the better.

BTW: Theres no Global Warming anywhere, its all about money!

PM  EMAIL  HOMEPAGE  Attn:RR  Quote
01-28-2007 02:12 AM  10 years agoPost 9
46Taylorcraft

rrKey Veteran

AZ

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Lots of great info from the guys above.
"Dang, I wish I would have spent another 75.00 gotten so and so motor or batteries!"
in this case I would say spend the extra and go for quality lipos over Emoli or A123 cells. I, of course, would highly recommend FlightPower lipos. That's all I fly and I love them. I've abused a few of them pretty hard over the summer and they are still flying today.

The quality motor for a Raptor if price is of no concern is an Actro 24-4. I have one in my scale Raptor and a stretched camera ship. cool running and gobs of power. Otherwise the less expensive alternative is the Z50A motors.

Blades? I have flown them all and can say that almost any composite blade will do well. Cheap TT carbons, Funeky/Rotortechs or pricey Vblades all seem to do about the same.

ESC's? I have flown CC, Shulze, Kontronic. Most of my flight time is with CC45HV and CC85HV's. I like them all. CC being the most economical. Take what your average amp draw is expected to be and triple it then buy the ESC that has at least that rating. That's the best way to make sure you have a cool running ESC even when governed down. For my super stretched Raptors I ran CC85HV's. My average amp draw is about 23 amps on those ships.

PM  EMAIL  HOMEPAGE  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
01-28-2007 02:20 AM  10 years agoPost 10
Burnt Offering

rrKey Veteran

Winter Wonder Land, Wasilla Alaska

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

So is there like a one stop shop to get the motor, batts, etc etc. Sorta get it all done in one fell swoopage? Shipping to Alaska might as well be shipping to a third world country. Everything is second day air, and very expensive. So one local for all would reduce my shipping costs a lot.
So if you are flying a lot, how many batteries (lipos) is sufficient? What do you recommend for a lipo charger?

PM  EMAIL  HOMEPAGE  Attn:RR  Quote
01-28-2007 02:59 PM  10 years agoPost 11
rerazor

rrElite Veteran

Mich.

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Gary at tppacks.com will take care of you.

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
01-28-2007 04:36 PM  10 years agoPost 12
HawkEyeMedia

rrApprentice

Fort Worth, Texas

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

I have a converted raptor with an AUW of 14.25 lbs.

I'm running the Actro 24-4 motor with the CC HV-85 ESC and FlightPower 10S 5000 packs. Right now, I'm swinging a pair of Rotortech 690 semi-sym's with 3 degrees of washout, but I'm going back to the FunKey 660 semi-syms. The CC ESC has a governor mode which is programmable through your PC.

I'm pulling 22 amps at hover, and my max climbouts (+11 pitch) will pull 38 amps. I can fly for 10 minutes and put 3300~3500 back into the FlightPower packs.

Gary at http://www.tppacks.com/categories.asp can fix you up with just about everything you need.

I get my FlightPower packs from http://www.espritmodel.com/ and they've got FAST shipping.

The 3D guys are having great success with the A123 packs, but for my AP configuration, an A123 pack would weigh 1 lb more than the FlightPower packs and put my AUW over the edge.

The Z-Power motors are running great too, and are more economical than the Actro.

STAY AWAY FROM HACKER MOTORS. This is one case where you are definately better off spending a little more and saving yourself a forced auto (the Z-Power and Actro's are also more efficient). I have a Hacker, and it makes a good paper weight.

Mark LaBoyteaux
HawkEyeMedia.com

PM  EMAIL  HOMEPAGE  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
01-28-2007 04:46 PM  10 years agoPost 13
rerazor

rrElite Veteran

Mich.

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

My stretched TT E550 raptor running 710mm Mah blades, Z50-600, HV85, 10s2p4600 a123 packs, askman 360 mount, Sony HC3 weighs in at 14.5-15lbs. It gives me a solid 10 min duration. Without the mount/camera it weighs 10lbs and give me 14:30min of sport flying.

I just don't see the advantage of going back to expensive Lipos unless your after the best power to weight ratio (3D) or you get them for free.

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
01-28-2007 08:18 PM  10 years agoPost 14
Burnt Offering

rrKey Veteran

Winter Wonder Land, Wasilla Alaska

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

OK, so what are you guys running for chargers? I mean if we are talking 600 bucks for a 5000 10s battery pack, what the heck does it take to charge them, and can it be done in the field? How long does it take to charge one?

PM  EMAIL  HOMEPAGE  Attn:RR  Quote
01-28-2007 08:27 PM  10 years agoPost 15
rerazor

rrElite Veteran

Mich.

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

A 10s1p a123 pack runs $100.

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
01-28-2007 08:41 PM  10 years agoPost 16
Burnt Offering

rrKey Veteran

Winter Wonder Land, Wasilla Alaska

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Whew! Well, thats more like it! I'm obviously reading and doing something wrong when looking at these batteries online. So Whats the advantage if any of Lipos over the A 10s1p a123 pack? And is it worth the cost difference? And who makes the A 10s1p a123?

PM  EMAIL  HOMEPAGE  Attn:RR  Quote
01-28-2007 09:04 PM  10 years agoPost 17
Burnt Offering

rrKey Veteran

Winter Wonder Land, Wasilla Alaska

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

OK so after a little research i find that most guys are building their own a123 packs. I'm good with that. I see tha some guys are building them out of Dewalt batteries. Is this what you use, or can you buy just the cells and put the packs together that way?

PM  EMAIL  HOMEPAGE  Attn:RR  Quote
01-29-2007 01:20 AM  10 years agoPost 18
rerazor

rrElite Veteran

Mich.

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Dewalt 36v on ebay.

How to tutorials on rcgroups.com

You will need two 10s1p 2300mah packs to make a 10s2p 4600mah pack.

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
01-29-2007 05:40 AM  10 years agoPost 19
Burnt Offering

rrKey Veteran

Winter Wonder Land, Wasilla Alaska

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

OK, I'm begining to understand, I'm dialed in on building your own battery packs. Found the instructions on ttpacks I think. I don't mean to sound so out of the loop, but I really am when it comes to electrics. So what are you guys doing to rectify interference from your electric motors?

PM  EMAIL  HOMEPAGE  Attn:RR  Quote
01-29-2007 07:26 AM  10 years agoPost 20
BigguyOz

rrKey Veteran

Forster, New South Wales, Australia

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

There is no fundamental issue here... commonsense is to keep radio wires as far away as possible from power wires etc.

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
WATCH
 3 pages [ <<    <    ( 1 )     2      3     NEXT    >> ] 2395 views
HelicopterAerial Photography and Video › E Heli for AP... Lots of questions
 Print TOPIC  Make Suggestion 

 11  Topic Subscribe

Tuesday, December 12 - 4:19 pm - Copyright © 2000-2017 RunRyder   EMAILEnable Cookies

Login Here
 New Subscriptions 
 Buddies Online